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The Definitive Guide to Slim Fit Shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by imageWIS, May 1, 2007.

  1. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I completely missed that. So, I guess it is true; pleats make the shirt less slim...

    Jon.


    Well... technically it makes sense. Much in the way that a pant with pleat allows for more fabric in the seat without giving that in the waist does a pleat do that in a shirt. Allows for more fabric in the body without giving it in the shoulders.

    Now a dart on the other hand tapers in the body what is given in the shoulders/yoke.
     
  2. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    on a size 41, the armholes when tracing around the seam of the armhole was just under 11 inches when lying flat. By contrast a brooks brothers had just under 12 inches lying flat traced around the seams. An ascot Chang shirt I had was 12 inches. Is there a more accurate way to measure? No Box pleats on the back. Sent you a PM. Did you see it?
    Thanks. The way I measure them (roughly, this is not an official method) is just to lay the shirt out flat and measure straight from the top of the armhole to the bottom. I think the H&M slim fits that I use as a guide for a shirt that fits me very well without binding measured about 10" this way.
     
  3. xarope

    xarope Well-Known Member

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    I'm not at that level, but I am a 36-37" chest with a 29-30" waist...and slim, at that. Finding shirts in the US that fit well is like [​IMG]

    Jon.


    hear hear, I am almost exactly that too, and polo slimfit is ok but shoulders are too narrow (finamore is also dreadfully too narrow in the shoulders by 2 inches or more). I've had decent success with AM, buying a few 15" sizes from lance, although neck and cuffs are tight.

    Recently got another MTM suit from Zegna, and they also "threw in" (albeit no discount as I used to get) a MTM shirt, which funnily enough was tagged "slimfit", but fits very well (it better, since it's an MTM!) even though sized a 15.5".
     
  4. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would like to add Micahel Bastian shirts to the list. His shirts are cut ridiculously slim. I usually wear a 15.5 and even 15 in some shirts, but I needed a 16 in MB and I still have difficulty lifting my arms.
     
  5. Asch

    Asch Senior member

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    I have a 36" chest and 29" waist, and the only OTR shirts I've found to fit truly slim in the midsection and sleeves are H&M slim-fits in size small. They pull too much at the shoulders/chest for buttoning up all the way but are perfect for casual occasions when I can leave a couple buttons undone.
     
  6. surrender

    surrender Senior member

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    Zaras are not slim by European standards. I would rate them to be slightly more generous than RL custom fit shirts. Also Zara shirts come in two grades, the standard and a higher end one with pearl buttons. Price difference about 30% I think.

    It depends on how the shirts are labeled. The shirts that are labeled Size S fit me almost perfectly, while the ones that are labeled size 38 are quite a bit blousier in the chest and waist and fit more like RL custom fits. I can't afford designer stuff like Dries Van Noten or Margiela yet, so Zara will do for now
     
  7. Tarmac

    Tarmac Senior member

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    Bjorn's graph wrt the Armani Collezione, it's strange because it's the puffiest shirt I have. The neck and sleeve length are spot-on for me (15inch) but it's just huge, I find myself rarely wearing it.

    Are you guys measuring true pit-to-pit right on the seam, or a little bit below that? My shirts taper quite a bit along that single inch.
     
  8. orlagu

    orlagu Senior member

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    It depends on how the shirts are labeled. The shirts that are labeled Size S fit me almost perfectly, while the ones that are labeled size 38 are quite a bit blousier in the chest and waist and fit more like RL custom fits. I can't afford designer stuff like Dries Van Noten or Margiela yet, so Zara will do for now
    I've got two Zara S-size slim fit shirts, one labeled Zara Men (€24.90), darted back, and one labeled Zara Man (€29.90) w/o darts. Both made in Vietnam - my country - to be exported to EU. They fitted me nicely, but I found that Zara Man fitted better than Zara Men.

    Is that similar to what maomao1980 said?
     
  9. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've got two Zara S-size slim fit shirts, one labeled Zara Men (€24.90), darted back, and one labeled Zara Man (€29.90) w/o darts. Both made in Vietnam - my country - to be exported to EU. They fitted me nicely, but I found that Zara Man fitted better than Zara Men.

    Is that similar to what maomao1980 said?


    The higer end shirts I've seen has white lables, with pearl buttons, while the lower end lines have black labels and plastic buttons.
     
  10. danderton5

    danderton5 Member

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    My measurements (at skin): neck: 15.5" (39.37cm) arm: 34/35" (86.36cm) chest (under arms over nipple): 36" (91.44cm) mid: (around largest section of mid and over belly button): 32" (81.28cm) waist (wear pants are worn): 32" (81.28cm) Height: 5'9" (175.26cm) average shoulder slope and width average proportions (legs and torso are equally proportioned) I just found the very rare Polo Ralph Lauren Dress Shirt today at a local discount store and tried it on (I am a size 15 1/2-34/35). I have to say the fit was much better than the Van Heusen and Stafford fitted shirts I have tried on. Both the Stafford and Heusen have about 1 inch more arm space (measuring where the sleeve meets the body of the shirt. I measured straight from the top of the seam to the bottom, not following the seam). The "fitted" if it can be even called that, Stafford and Heusen shirts should be avoided unless you plan on having a tailor fix them up a bit. The Heusen has a weird curvyness to the body of the shirt as well which unless you are the perfect height adds extra fabric in the back around the mid section, and the end result is a poofy back and some extra fabric on the sides that is impossible to tuck. Here is a breif comparison of some measurements I took on the shirts: Stafford Fitted shoulders, across top of yoke: 20 arm width, as described above: 11 length, top button to tail: 29.5 width at middle of shirt, flat seam to seam: 20.75 width, under arm holes: 23.5 bottom of arm hole to tail, at side seam: 18.5 width at highest part of the tail, seam to seam: 22 Van Heusen Fitted shoulders, across top of yoke: 19.25 arm width, as described above: 11 length, top button to tail: 29 width at middle of shirt, flat seam to seam: 20 width, under arm holes: 23 bottom of arm hole to tail, at side seam: 17.5 width at highest part of the tail, seam to seam: 21 Polo Ralph Lauren Curham Custom Fit shoulders, across top of yoke: 18.75 arm width, as described above: 9.75 length, top button to tail: 29 width at middle of shirt, flat seam to seam: 20.75 width, under arm holes: 22 bottom of arm hole to tail, at side seam: 17 width at highest part of the tail, seam to seam: 22 These measurements don't fully show the subtle differences between the Heusen and the Polo shirt. The Heusen has a very full center pleating that poofs of the back. In addition the Heusen is too curvy and in my opinion resembles a woman's dress shirt. The over-curvy Heusen leads too additional fabric that can't be tucked in because of the stitching on the shirt. The Polo has more squared body and is also fairly slim. I know they are not at all in the same category but the "dress" shirts from American Eagle Outfitters have almost identical measurements to the Polo Custom Fit Curham shirt. I disliked both the Stafford and Heusen because of their bagginess in both the arms and although slightly less baggy mid sections, still baggy none the less. I enjoyed the Curham RL Polo but still feel it is not sharp enough as I would like it and certainly remains baggy around the mid section but the arms fit the best yet. Now, I am looking for some suggestions as to some better fitting shirts, or a guide to custom fitting my shirts. 1) My girlfriend has some very developed sewing skills and can easily take a part a shirt and sew it to the measurements I give her but I am not really sure how tight the shirt should be. She hasn't done much mens tailor but from what she knows about customizing her own stuff I think it will work out fine. Is an inch of space around the entire mid section enough? Two inches? I really don't know how to go about this so if anyone with a similar build to mine (if it matters?) could try on their best fitting shirt and create some kind of technique to get the right fit around the mid section and arms I would really appreciate it. I know one test I did was pulling on the front of the shirt, around the belly button, tightly to pull forward all of the fabric and then sliding a measure tape up my shirt measuring from my belly to the shirt. (I don't know how great that is but it is a start I guess). 2) Secondly, is there any company that produces a better fitting shirt for my build? I have read through this thread but it's hard when no one really posts their measurements or anything. A reply from some similarly built folks would be great. Sorry this is so long, but hey, you didn't have to read it all. Thanks, D.
     
  11. Tarmac

    Tarmac Senior member

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    I like how you have measurements to the tenth of a millimeter.[​IMG]
     
  12. danderton5

    danderton5 Member

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    kudos should be directed to the google convertor.
     
  13. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Its been asked and discussed previously, but I took the liberty of making a drawing showing what IMHO is the optimum height for a slim shirt worn outside jeans (or pants). It is about half way down the front of the zipper, i.e. half way from the waist to the crotch:

    [​IMG]

    Jon.
     
  14. danderton5

    danderton5 Member

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    Does anyone have a Hugo Boss in 15.5, 34/35 and would be willing to take some measurements for me? I was looking for:
    1. armpit seam to seam across chest
    2. across yoke, seam to seam shoulders
    3. acoss mid section of shirt
    4. width across lowest parth of shirt

    Thanks.
     
  15. itskub

    itskub Senior member

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    The shirt I have says BOSS hugo boss on a black label from an outlet store. Not sure if its different from the HB shirts with a red label. Its a 15/34,35, and I have a 37" chest, and its not close to slim.
     
  16. overdog

    overdog Senior member

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    Not all Boss shirts are made alike. Recently I tried one on that was a very full cut. I believe it was made in Hong Kong. I think the ones that are made in Turkey might be slimmer.
     
  17. Dmax

    Dmax Senior member

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    Can anyone comment on the difference in fit of Finamore black label versus Finamore white label?
    I have one Finamore black label shirt and it is very slim with very high armholes. In size 16 it is the only brand I found that is actually too slim for my 42" chest.
     
  18. danderton5

    danderton5 Member

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    The shirt I have says BOSS hugo boss on a black label from an outlet store. Not sure if its different from the HB shirts with a red label. Its a 15/34,35, and I have a 37" chest, and its not close to slim.

    We have really similar measurements, what shirts have you found that fit you best?
     
  19. itskub

    itskub Senior member

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    the only brand so far that Im satisfied with the fit is Patrizia Pepe, this is a M 48.
    http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/9553/buy3hj4.jpg
    I found a few at Daffys; in green, blue/white microcheckered, cream/linen..Though theyre not really dress-shirts.
    And for sweaters and t-shirts Gazernitti (sp?) fits nicely.
    Other then that I just have all my tops altered.
     
  20. whacked

    whacked Senior member

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    the only brand so far that Im satisfied with the fit is Patrizia Pepe, this is a M 48.
    http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/9553/buy3hj4.jpg
    I found a few at Daffys; in green, blue/white microcheckered, cream/linen..Though theyre not really dress-shirts.
    And for sweaters and t-shirts Gazernitti (sp?) fits nicely.
    Other then that I just have all my tops altered.

    Way too slim. Anyone w/ some upperbody muscle or fat would not fit into that shirt.

    Too short to be tucked in also => not a dress shirt.
     

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