The Definitive Guide to Slim Fit Shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by imageWIS, May 1, 2007.

  1. cheessus

    cheessus Senior member

    Messages:
    2,585
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2008
    Location:
    Palo Alto/Santa Clara
    Isn't it just best/most cost effective to buy whatever shirt you think is really nice and just have it tapered?

    I've never had a shirt tapered because I've just been too lazy, but my alterations lady said she would do it for around $15. I've been thinking that this is pretty good way to go, but then again I don't know what the result would be like.

    My problem with shirt fitting is that a lot of the shirts don't fit my shoulders and chest, and so I have to buy 34/35 sleeves and get those shortened. Also, a lot of shirts' armholes are too low for me.

    Anyway, I am 16.5, 34/35; my chest is 44", and my waist is 33". I am 5'8" and weigh 180. If anyone is roughly my size, let me know what works best for you.
     
  2. bobmcbob

    bobmcbob Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    I'm 6'3", 168lbs, 32" waist, 41" chest, 36" inseam, short waste, long arms, somewhat wide shoulders. The biggest problem is that shirts that are long enough in the arms fit like a tent around my body.

    About five years ago I searched for and bought about 6 different slim/trim/tapered/fitted dress shirts. I bought size 15.5-34/35 up to 16-35. They were Strafford and Lands End, and ?. They were okay. They fit very good if I tuck them in. But, I've always wanted a dress shirt that I didn't have to tuck in. These still billow if I don't.

    The other day I bought a size M dress shirt from Ruehl. The fit was good. The best part is that the arms were freakishly long. I honestly don't know how a normal proportioned person would wear this shirt - I guess they are made to roll up the sleeves once or twice. For me it was just nicely extra long. I didn't try a S at first because I thought, I'm 6'3", a S can't possibly be big enough, that's ridiculous. But, then I thought, if the M is too long, then maybe I should try a S. So, I did. It fit great. And, it looks nice to wear not tucked in.

    The neck measures 16". The sleeve length is 35.5. (same as my "35" size shirts - they were actually a half inch bigger than they said, unless I'm measuring wrong).

    The only visible label is on the bottom center. If you tuck it in, no one will know it's from Ruehl. So, you can wear it with anything. Very soft comfortable material.

    The sleeves are wrinkled because they were rolled up in the store and I haven't ironed it or washed it yet. When I do wash it, I'm worried it will shrink - in which case I'm screwed and I may go back and buy another M.


    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  3. Lel

    Lel Senior member

    Messages:
    3,386
    Likes Received:
    588
    Joined:
    May 19, 2007
    Wow fit looks great. Only problems with fit afterwards might be the shoulders, but that's typical of HCO/AF shirts to have really narrow shoulders for a "tight" fit. Otherwise, looks great. Though, if you're 6"3' and almost 170lb. and still you're a small... this is the reason why I hate typical sizing.
     
  4. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,521
    Likes Received:
    944
    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2008
    Location:
    SE MI
    I've found the CT slim fits to be generally lacking in quality, although they're cheap enough on sale. I like the wide spread collar better than their standard one. I tried Thomas Pink last year and the fit was all over the place from shirt to shirt, so I gave them a pass.

    RL Black Label shirts are slim fitting enough for me (5'11", 150, 15x54, 39ch, 30w, 38R coat). I've tried on a Prada slim fit and found it very tight in the body - probably too tight when allowing for shrinkage. The RL Custom fit is ok, but a little loose, although I have a couple linen custom shirts which shrank and fit better after a wash or two.

    I also like the Brooks Bros Luxury line, but they fit about like the RLPL. Having them tapered is an option as long as the arm holes aren't too big.
     
  5. BlueHorseShoe

    BlueHorseShoe Senior member

    Messages:
    523
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2008
    An off-the-rack shirt doesn't even come close to made-to-measure, no matter how slim fit it is.

    I get shirts made to my measurements from Pickashirt.com.

    They are really cheap and the shirts are amazing. [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Not even well disguised.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. smoothie

    smoothie Senior member

    Messages:
    264
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2008
    I'm 6'3", 168lbs, 32" waist, 41" chest, 36" inseam, short waste, long arms, somewhat wide shoulders. The biggest problem is that shirts that are long enough in the arms fit like a tent around my body.

    About five years ago I searched for and bought about 6 different slim/trim/tapered/fitted dress shirts. I bought size 15.5-34/35 up to 16-35. They were Strafford and Lands End, and ?. They were okay. They fit very good if I tuck them in. But, I've always wanted a dress shirt that I didn't have to tuck in. These still billow if I don't.

    The other day I bought a size M dress shirt from Ruehl. The fit was good. The best part is that the arms were freakishly long. I honestly don't know how a normal proportioned person would wear this shirt - I guess they are made to roll up the sleeves once or twice. For me it was just nicely extra long. I didn't try a S at first because I thought, I'm 6'3", a S can't possibly be big enough, that's ridiculous. But, then I thought, if the M is too long, then maybe I should try a S. So, I did. It fit great. And, it looks nice to wear not tucked in.

    The neck measures 16". The sleeve length is 35.5. (same as my "35" size shirts - they were actually a half inch bigger than they said, unless I'm measuring wrong).

    The only visible label is on the bottom center. If you tuck it in, no one will know it's from Ruehl. So, you can wear it with anything. Very soft comfortable material.

    The sleeves are wrinkled because they were rolled up in the store and I haven't ironed it or washed it yet. When I do wash it, I'm worried it will shrink - in which case I'm screwed and I may go back and buy another M.


    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]



    Thats crazy. Your S shirt seems like a L elsewhere. 16 inch neck on a small? Isn't generically L 16-16 half, M 15- 15 half, and S i guess 14-14half?
     
  7. gumercindo

    gumercindo Senior member

    Messages:
    2,201
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2007
    Location:
    DC Suburbs
    just some commetns on 3 shirts I recently picked up from Ian at STF.

    Borrelli
    Finamore
    Barba (not black label)

    In order of slimest to not slimest:

    1. Barba (not black label)
    2. Borrelli
    3. Finamore

    The difference b/w Barba and Borrelli was more significant than the difference b/w Borrelli and Finamore, actually.
     
  8. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,690
    Likes Received:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    just some commetns on 3 shirts I recently picked up from Ian at STF.

    Borrelli
    Finamore
    Barba (not black label)

    In order of slimest to not slimest:

    1. Barba (not black label)
    2. Borrelli
    3. Finamore

    The difference b/w Barba and Borrelli was more significant than the difference b/w Borrelli and Finamore, actually.



    Keep in mind that all three of those make various shirts with different degrees of slimness and Ian's measurements should be used as a guide. For the most part, the American market shirts are baggy and a lot of the shirts on shopthefinest seem to be for the American market.
     
  9. Fretless

    Fretless New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2008
    I'm a fan of Thomas Pink Slim Fit and Hugo Boss shirts. I'm 5'8 with a 40" Chest and 30" waist and they both fit me great. I've never felt the need to have shirts made, although I have my suits made. Not so much for difficulty of fit, but because I can choose whatever fabric and style I desire.
     
  10. Southern Beau

    Southern Beau Active Member

    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2008
    I had the good fortune of getting a half dozen shirts made to fit from a tailor in Bangkok and I made sure they were cut slim through my, thankfully, fit waist line. I went into a store today, a very nice men's retailer mind you, and asked about what they had in slim cut shirts and was promptly told they don't carry those. "We've gotten by a long time with shirts that weren't slim fit. For us to get them now would be a tough sell." I will never apologize if my fashion sense has transcended the proprietors.
     
  11. childermass

    childermass New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2008
    Hello,

    Question for buying slim fit shirts. I'm tall, 6'2", and lean, 165 lbs now, down about 10lbs since I've stopped working out. I plan on starting again soon, but I don't imagine that will change my size too much. I'm a 15/35 and prefer slim fit shirts, but very few shirt makers make slim fit shirts that size: the sleeves are normally 33 or 34. The only two that do that make shirts that I like are Charles Tyrwhitt and TM Lewin, though the latter is 15/36 for only their Windsor line I believe and CT shirts aren't as slim as I'd like. I generally don't like most American shirt makers as I find them bland. Also, I prefer french cuffs. Does anyone have any suggestions for any other variety that I can look for?
     
  12. anonymouz

    anonymouz Senior member

    Messages:
    579
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2008
    Wow, I finally found a slim fit shirt that's slimmer than H&M. The fit is just about perfect. It's from Muji. I don't know if it's available in the US but I'm in Taiwan right now and it's available in a lot of the department stores.
     
  13. bariummeal

    bariummeal New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2008
    Eton Shirts are fabulous, and have a nice slim fit to them. Even slimmer is Mulberry shirts - though the quality is no-where near Eton. Indeed, Eton does appear to be better quality than any other shirts I have owed. There is usually a good reduction on them during the sales in Harrods, and in their store near Holborn , London.

    www.etonshirts.com
    www.mulberry.com
     
  14. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

    Messages:
    1,864
    Likes Received:
    239
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2007
    Location:
    London
    William and George shirts are slim fitting but have BIG collars.
    http://www.williamandgeorgelondon.co.uk/

    M & S 'Made to Measure' on the other hand can be slim fitting if you wish but their collars are rather small in my experience.
     
  15. dantheman

    dantheman Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2008
    There is a fat guy in my office who wears slim fit shirts. Some people just shouldn't wear fitted shirts.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by