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The DB Stare

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, May 9, 2012.

  1. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    Blame it on the bromance in the air. :nodding:

    - M
     
  2. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Then you need to recycle your shoe boxes. :fence:
     
  3. Bradford

    Bradford Senior member

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    1. I think the Great Recession has returned society to a slightly more formal style of dressing, i.e. It's OK for my banker to wear a golf shirt and khakis when times are good, but when times are tough I want a serious professional in a suit.

    2. I don't know about Manhattan but it's been my impression for several months that double-breasted jackets are coming back INTO style. Maybe you're just too much of an early adopter, or maybe it is that weightlifting you've been doing - you are clearly an imposing physical specimen - some might even call you Schwarzeneggerish :D

    3. I've also noticed that Californians seem to think you are wearing a suit anytime you wear a tailored jacket with something other than jeans. I get those comments here all the time as well.
     
  4. Trompe le Monde

    Trompe le Monde Senior member

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    "it's actually a notched-gorge single breasted sportcoat ye sloven uncouth wench"
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If I am so strong, how come I still can't deadlift my own weight? :(

    Anyway, yeah, Greg, no one has yet said anything to me yet but I have gotten some odd looks in the building. Since I don't see clients it doesn't matter but after 20 years of wearing DB, including to the White House, it's strange to me that only now is it something that people seem to notice and care about.
     
  6. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    I actually saw a gent yesterday wearing a DB and I kept looking because the gorge was so low and he couldn't have been more than 40 yo. I mean really low, like mid chest. Worst part is he had it unbuttoned.
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    About a third of my suits are now DBs, and I do get stares all the time. Surprisingly, my linen 4x2 DB sportcoat is hardly ever noticed (perhaps because I wear it w/o a tie).

    Pocket Squares seem far more commonplace these days (well, at least in Midtown). People would stare or comment 4-5 years ago, but now no one seems to care/notice.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2012
  8. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Are you sure it's not just that a self-reinforcing bias i.e you see someone staring once (maybe nothing to do with the jacket) and then look out for it more, so see it more, and so on? Given that most people barely glance at other people while they're out and about, my hunch is this is probably more likely.

    But if what you're noting is actually really happening, a possible explanation for the difference is that the 3pc suit was brought back into mainstream RTW (in generally terrible ways, but still...) about 5-10 years ago and maybe reached an apex a couple of years ago whereas DB's have only been coming back into mainstream RTW over maybe 1-3 years and won't peak for at least another couple of years. At least, I'd say that's the timeline here, I don't know about NYC but I suspect it's fairly similar or only a little behind. So DBs are rarer sights than 3pc at the moment. Give it a few years, and it'll flip round in favour of DBs.

    Then in about 3-5 years the cycle will trend back to 3BSB suits (I'd say there are some early signs of it returning at the margins).

    One can opt to dress (mostly/partly) outside the fashion cycle but it does still exist, and influences general perceptions of what's "typical" and what's not. Shrug and move on, unless you need to deal with people whose opinion on the issue matters in a significant way.
     
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Look, it is simply a false premise that DB suits are outmoded. True, they are not widespread on Wall Street, but they are currently very fashionable and trendy. So, if you are generally getting looks outside the office, it is just as likely that people are noticing you for expressing the trend as they are for being odd.
     
  10. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
  11. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Yep, DBs are definitely on the rise. They won't peak for a couple more years though; I see them more in designer shops (or in the fast-fashion shops that copy designers) rather than being truly widespread yet. It'll happen though, before the wheel turns again.
     
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Unfortunately most of the DBs that are "on the rise" are abominations. With the exception of Corneliani and Brioni, the DBs featured in this article touting their return to runways are disasters:

    http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/01/17/coming-soon-double-breasted-suits/

    A really good DB is an awesome and stylish object. But it is very rare in my experience. And DBs that fall short of this look worse than imperfect SBs. I'm at the beginning of my journey through the world of bespoke, but currently I've got a few jackets in the works, one of which is DB, and it is significantly more difficult to get right than the SBs.
     
  13. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    really? Because I see very, very few. Quite close to none, actually.
     
  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I don't see any, except on some rare old school dudes and silly menswear blogs where they are cropped and skin-tight
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2012
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not saying they are common or widespread. I'm just saying that magazines like Esquire and GQ have been talking them up over the past few years and feature them quite regularly. Thus, anybody who cares about what's fashionable is likely to notice you're wearing one. Bottom line: it may not be negative recognition.

    All that said, I do notice them on younger guys. Usually, they are terrible abominations and not business-appropriate, but they are DBs nonetheless and clearly worn to be fashionable.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2012
  16. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    I am going to wear DBs more often because of this thread.
     
  17. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know what's in the mags these days but I feel like I see fewer DBs on the street than ever.
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think age has something to do with it as well. Older guys that I work with wear them a lot and it doesn't look out of place at all, at least to me. I have noticed that at my company a lot of people have been stepping up the formality in the past year or so. I am not sure if it is recession, or the media, PR or what, but I don't work in the finance industry and I see it. Still nobdy under 50 wearing a DB though.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2012
  19. ykurtz

    ykurtz Senior member

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    I've been wearing DB blazers for the past six years, and I would say in the past year or so, they are starting to pop up more often. In Chicago, I noticed quite a few during the week, actually, in 2010-2011. Now in SoCal, they are still quite the anachronism. The one or two I've seen (other than myself) have been in La Jolla, and in both instances, the men wearing them weren't speaking English.
     
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, but that's because you are very old and your perspective is stretched over a much longer time period.
     

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