The cut of dress shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by VMan, May 3, 2003.

  1. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    I have noticed that dress shirts do not fit me very well. I am 6' tall and about 160 lbs, with a muscular build. The problem is that I have a built upper body and a slim waist. I normally take a 15.5/16 inch neck, and 33" sleeves, and my waist size is a 31. Shirts fit fine near the chest, but are very baggy towards my waist. When I was being fitted for a tuxedo, I asked the person about this, and she said that it was because of what I stated before, and there's not much I can do about it. She suggested that I pull around the extra material and tuck it in to the back of my pants; this looks fine when I am wearing the jacket, but if I am to take it off I am left with tons of stuff tucked back there. Are there such things as 'atheltic' cut dress shirts or tapered shirts? Any other tips would be helpful.
     
  2. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Thomas Pink and Brooks Bros have a "slim" line.  Another shirts that tend to fit slim include Charvet, Canali, and Ascot Chang.
    Otherwise, check with your local tailor and see if you can get some made-to-measure.
     
  3. AskAndyAboutClothes

    AskAndyAboutClothes Senior member

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    Versace Man: "...suggested that I pull around the extra material and tuck it in to the back of my pants; this looks fine when I am wearing the jacket, but if I am to take it off I am left with tons of stuff tucked back there." The extra shirt fabric is usually pulled to both sides, which is still a "problem" when one takes off the jacket, but a gentleman never removes his jacket in public.... Traditional dress shirts are cut full, but your tailor (even the dry cleaners alteration person) can take some of the extra fabric out to make your shirts fit better. Andy
     
  4. davei

    davei Senior member

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    I agree with both of the responses above. However you may find slim cut shirts will fit in the waist but not in the chest (or the armhole may not be cut large enough, etc.) Dry cleaner/tailor is fine for alterations, you should also check with the store you purchase your shirts from, a lot of them will do the alterations for free.
     
  5. bryce330

    bryce330 Senior member

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    I'm late to this topic but I wanted to add my two cents as I have had the exact same problem. With regard to slim-fitting shirts, I have found the Pink slim fit line to be a perfect fit for me. I tried on a Brooks Bros slim shirt once but it didn't really seem that slim at all.

    Also, most dress shirts by high-end "name" designers such as Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, and Prada tend to have a very slim fit. I've found that Dolce fits me particularly well. You may also want to try Paul Smith, although not the "London" line which is a more traditional fit.

    If you are looking for something less expensive, I would recommend the Banana Republic Stretch Classic shirts - they come in a very wide range of colors and you can usually pick them up at a BR outlet store for around $30.
     
  6. vero_group

    vero_group Senior member

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    I recommend custom tailoring. Most manufacturers build to the average, and the average dress shirt buyer in America is a middle-aged man with a potbelly (my wife calls it "a shed for a useless tool") -- thus all the extra material at the waste, er, waist. Your physique is above average and requires an above average solution. The higher end designers discussed above are a good start. But, by the time you pay their prices, you could get your shirts custom tailored. You get better and more numerous choices of collar types, colors, patterns, fabric quality, button types, etc. too. And, you get to see your own name in print every morning when you put your shirt on. Expect to pay $100 and up per shirt with a three to five shirt minimum. It's more than twice as expensive as department store shirts but well worth it. To offset the cost, after you receive your new, custom shirts, sell the old department store shirts at a resale/consignment shop or on eBay.com. Or, what the heck, clean out the entire closet and sell all the stuff you don't wear all that much anymore for whatever reason. In the end, you may have fewer shirts, but they'll be better shirts, made just for you. Life's too short to settle for the "average" being pushed on the physique you have worked very hard to create. [​IMG]
     
  7. aybojs

    aybojs Senior member

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    What specifically is done when a shirt is altered so its cut will fit better, and is this a drastic and costly alteration?

    Also, on a sidenote, I've noticed Yoox has some Barba shirts, which I've heard are one of the elusive high quality shirt brands with slim cuts. How do their cuts compare with other brands like Brioni, Paul Smith, and all of the "fashion" brands and is the line of Barba products featured on Yoox the same high quality one that is praised so often on the board (i.e. are those from a lower-quality diffusion line or not?).
     
  8. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They can add darts to the shirt to makes it fit slimmer - it is neither difficult nor expensive.

    Steve B may be qualified to comment on the cut of Barba vs Brioni, Paul Smith etc. as he has worn all those brands. All the Barba's I've had have been slim-cut, not skin tight but noticeably slimmer than just about every other high-end shirt. I don't think they have a diffusion line so I'm sure the shirts on Yoox are the real deal.

    For those of you who have bought from Yoox what has been your experience? I ordered some Lidfort shoes recently. I was impressed by the fast, inexpensive shipping but the shoes were way too small and they seem to really be dragging their feet on the refund. They recieved the shoes back almost two weeks ago and I still haven't recieved email confirmation that they have accepted the return.
     
  9. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Incidentally, A Harris, have you received your custom shirt yet, from the-tailor-who-is-not-to-be-named-on-these-boards? [​IMG] If so, what did you think?
     
  10. aybojs

    aybojs Senior member

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    My impression of Yoox is that they have a great selection (I was pleasantly surprised to see that they now carry Borrelli, Barba, Incotex, Isaia, and other such lines, even to the point of the skepticism I expressed in my earlier post), but their interface and information services are lacking, and the heavy burden is on the customer to know exactly how everything fits/looks/wears or be willing to experiment freely and go through the return hassle (as you are). For example, I found it annoying how they listed eu48 size pants as 38, which made it hard to tell which size standard they were following and the only answer I recieved from customer service was "eh just buy it and return it if it doesn't work."

    So far all my orders have went well and I haven't had to return anything yet, but I'm really surprised to hear it's taking that long for them to do anything; have you kept reminding them by e-mail? Let me know how that resolves itself since I'm thinking about taking advantage of Yoox's recent free shipping offer and experimenting on a few items, but if returns really work that slowly I'd be hesitant to do so.
     
  11. happydog

    happydog Member

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    I have the same fit problem (5'10", 16.5/34 with a 33 waist). I have found two solutions: (1) my local men's store will take in the side seams of shirts purchased there for $10, and (2) a local tailor will do the same for my other shirts for $15. I believe they also taper the sleeves a bit toward the top of the arm to balance the tapering of the sides. I've been very happy with the results. The advantage of this over the darting procedure mentioned above is that there's no dart showing in the back when you take off your jacket.
     
  12. Steve B.

    Steve B. Go Spurs Go

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    Brioni, Barba and Paul Smith are nicely fitted. PS more so, particularly the London line. Some great shirts this season...

    ETRO is also very fitted, especially their slim line this season.

    Brioni and Barba are good choices if you're older, ETRO and PS if you're under 30, or refuse to dress your age like yours truly...

    If you want to let me know where you live, I might be able to refer you to some local stores that carry these brands.

    Nick- you're allowed to mention Jantzen Tailor, they aren't. Only because they've had their one post. But I did refer someone to them today in an inquiry off my website.
     
  13. MikeF

    MikeF Senior member

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    Not to digress, but I must say that my JT shirts are nothing short of fantastic. When one factors in the price, it's definitely the best deal going in men's attire. I've probably received 10 shirts by now and each and every one looks great. In one case, I received a pocket I hadn't asked for, but that's not a bad record given that each of the 10 shirts I've ordered has been constructed in some slightly different way. Highly, highly recommended.
     
  14. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Maybe I'm way behind the curve on this one, but I guess that means your site is up and running? Have you posted the URL, or a link anywhere?
     
  15. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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