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The CM Graveyard: First Sartoria Partenopea... next J. Crew?

am55

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Well the RER at 10 euros is more practical. Of course as you go through the Saint Denis area you can cross a gang or two in the train.

Uber are thieves but it is safer (apart of course if you have a driver like the one who raped and killed a foreign girl two years ago).
Uber in Paris is kind of weird compared to global Uber. Neither the driver, nor the car, are the ones on the app. The drivers were often illegals. Rest of the world, the checks are more stringent.

I took the RER from CDG once, decided that if I wanted to see dystopia I'd stick to Ridley Scott's filmography. It also takes longer, depending on traffic...
 

Riva

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I probably have a unhealthy fondness for peak lapel (and I have no problem wear peak lapel suit every other day to the office)

Aside from being considered more formal which I'd personally ignore, I thought peak lapels are beneficial in creating a slimmer silhouette for those who need it?
 

lordsuperb

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Just visited Sky Valet at City Center here in DC. It’s cool and rainy out and I was sick of being inside. Anyway, the owner was the only one in the shop. He was quite friendly, gracious and knowledgeable. Apologies to all who felt wronged at this place but I had a great experience.

We talked brands, sizing, shoe dyeing, fits, etc. He doesn’t carry Carmina anymore and has switched to the Spanish brand Yanko from Mallorca. He also had John Lobb (out of my range!), Alden, C&J and some Italian stuff. He did mention he was the first US stockist for Carmina.

Looked at RM Williams Chelsea boots but they were too casual. I have some AE Dalton’s for casual wear in sloppy weather. Bought a pair of perfectly fitting C&J Chelsea boots in dark burnished brown. Will post a pic when I get home.

I think I will be back to visit again. :-D

Do you remember the name of the person who helped you?
 

clee1982

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Aside from being considered more formal which I'd personally ignore, I thought peak lapels are beneficial in creating a slimmer silhouette for those who need it?

I think makes me taller is probably more important, I'm probably better off putting on a few pounds (in the right place...), probably same reason I prefer structured shoulder vs. the last 5 years of trend of shirt sleeve
 

Riva

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I think makes me taller is probably more important, I'm probably better off putting on a few pounds (in the right place...), probably same reason I prefer structured shoulder vs. the last 5 years of trend of shirt sleeve

A shorter jacket to elongate the legs help as well. Yes we shouldn't follow trends but what works for our own body and lifestyle.
 

smittycl

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Do you remember the name of the person who helped you?
Older gentleman who said he was the owner of both shops. He talked fast and I missed his first name. Nice guy.
 
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smittycl

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chelsea 5? personally would prefer chelsea 8 to be a dressier side (or the 348 version, but 348 doesn't fit me that well...)
Not sure of the exact Chelsea model. Can look later today after work. He only carried one model in brown from C&J.

EDIT: looked them up online and I have the 5. The 8 is a bit dressier and 40% more expensive!
 
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clee1982

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A shorter jacket to elongate the legs help as well. Yes we shouldn't follow trends but what works for our own body and lifestyle.

Shorter yes but some of the stuff from past few years are too short even by my standard i’m a bit over 5’7”, i usually prefer jacket between 28 to 29 boc depending on the cut (for CM, for stuff like TS, Monitaly can be shorter don’t care).
 

Riva

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Shorter yes but some of the stuff from past few years are too short even by my standard i’m a bit over 5’7”, i usually prefer jacket between 28 to 29 boc depending on the cut (for CM, for stuff like TS, Monitaly can be shorter don’t care).

Yes for your height the current trend would be too short. 28 sounds about the shortest you should go.
 

LA Guy

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just saw this, yea Sky Valet was the few ones to bring CJ and EG over in the earlier days, though don't think they're first on Vass or Carmina (counting BG's brief season of Vass)
Vass was at Louis Boston in 2004 or 2005 as well, in their first run in the US. The original reps of Vass in the US are still on this forum, if they care to chime in here on their experiences.
 

Gus

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I really really rarely see people wear TB suit, does see his bd shirt/sweater/pants/shoes gets worn though

His suits work for one body type...his. When I see a regular or industry guy wearing one of his suits, they are always the same size as TB and it looks good. But other body types just can't pull off his suits. TB developed the ideal wardrobe, mostly for himself. More power to him. The guy is one of the most brilliant marketers in fashion since Tom Ford was at Gucci or Georgio Armani romanced Hollywood.
 

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