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The CM Graveyard: First Sartoria Partenopea... next J. Crew?

clee1982

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The Brioni cuts are pretty strange. I fit well in most Zegna and Canali (and TF, Samuelsohn, etc...), but when I try on Brioni the proportions seem to be off. For example, narrow shoulders but large chest.

Gaetano was a great cut though.

Is that pre or post recent changes
 

smittycl

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The Brioni cuts are pretty strange. I fit well in most Zegna and Canali (and TF, Samuelsohn, etc...), but when I try on Brioni the proportions seem to be off. For example, narrow shoulders but large chest.

Gaetano was a great cut though.
I only have one piece of Brioni tailoring. An unstructured, featherweight blue linen summer jacket. Most of their cuts just don't look good on me. Zegna's Milano cut and a few of Canali's (they only number them I think) work much better.
 

smittycl

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Amanda Mull's new column in the Atlantic is quite interesting. Today's is on free shipping and the impact on small businesses. Amazing how Amazon in particular manipulates us all like rodents receiving food pellets for behavioral choices.

 
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clee1982

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I only have one piece of Brioni tailoring. An unstructured, featherweight blue linen summer jacket. Most of their cuts just don't look good on me. Zegna's Milano cut and a few of Canali's (they only number them I think) work much better.

funny enough the only brioni jacket I have is a soft summer jacket as well
 

comrade

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Haven't looked at them for years.
Last time I checked they had built up shoulders that
the salesman and I agreed were not flattering.
 

othertravel

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Haven't looked at them for years.
Last time I checked they had built up shoulders that
the salesman and I agreed were not flattering.

The new models don't really have built up shoulders. Light-to-medium padding. But yeah, it's not a flattering cut on me either. Even in the video with Christian Slater, it doesn't look that great.

That said, the Brioni suits in Arbitrage looked great:

1297180


1297181

1297182


1297183
 

smittycl

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Barneys adding deeper discounts.

Capture.JPG
 

clee1982

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so went to Barneys, not as bad as I thought, it basically looks like Saks on sale...

since they have brioni, gave it a try, Primo is decent (fits slim), just lack character, a bit generic...

Cifonelli had 2 models, one is quite blend the other looks more Cifonelli proper (lapel/shoulder wise)

RLPL has a model called douglas to my surprise other than the lapel on the narrow side everything fits very very well, and actually my favorite out of all things I tried
 

othertravel

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so went to Barneys, not as bad as I thought, it basically looks like Saks on sale...

since they have brioni, gave it a try, Primo is decent (fits slim), just lack character, a bit generic...

Cifonelli had 2 models, one is quite blend the other looks more Cifonelli proper (lapel/shoulder wise)

RLPL has a model called douglas to my surprise other than the lapel on the narrow side everything fits very very well, and actually my favorite out of all things I tried

Douglas is a soft shoulder model with a lot of padding. I like it too. The Gregory isn’t bad either.
 

clee1982

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Douglas is a soft shoulder model with a lot of padding. I like it too. The Gregory isn’t bad either.

maybe my illusion but based on my memory I think Gregory is shorter?

has Anthony been discoutined? Thought it would still make a very nice tuxedo and double breast with the strong shoulder
 

clee1982

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By the way speaking of website the remapped Bergdorf Goodman website looks a lot better (even had its own app) instead of the shared service Neiman Marcus crap...
 

smittycl

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By the way speaking of website the remapped Bergdorf Goodman website looks a lot better (even had its own app) instead of the shared service Neiman Marcus crap...
I was sick off the overlap as well.
 

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