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The CM Graveyard: First Sartoria Partenopea... next J. Crew?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jrd617, Jun 13, 2017.

  1. gfmozart

    gfmozart Distinguished Member

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    brands that have a lack of interest suffer from either being too boring or too interesting. I might add that eidos (which i have relatively been recently acquainted with ) suffered from being always in the shadow of isaia and was a little too ahead of its time. and i also think that because it was limited in distribution being slightly underhyped, people were more likely to just have regarded it as just another italian label.
     

  2. Riva

    Riva Distinguished Member

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    And now we're stuck with mediocre stuff in the market (square safari pockets).
     

  3. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    I was referring to it struggling or going out of business. I might have misread the point of the conversation. I love Canali. Amazing suits.

    The only Coneliani I have is some older PRL which is quite nice.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2018

  4. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior Member

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    Wasn't EIDOS suit problem that it turned out to be a niche design that was trying to mass market (Ciro)? While the more commercial silhouettes (Baltasaar? or something) ended up being outcompeted by similar more well known brands?
     

  5. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    Anyone wear Hickey Freeman? They don't seem to get much love around here but I've been pretty impressed with their quality of their mainline stuff over the years. Curious to know how they are doing. Much higher quality and better fit than Brooks Brothers, at least for me.

    Lots of Loro Piana.
     

  6. NickPollica

    NickPollica Distinguished Member

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    Never tried to make the ciro mass market. I wouldn’t let departments stores buy it.

    Eidos’ tailoring never gathered steam for a variety of reasons, but the biggest is that most guys don’t need to wear suits anymore and the trend of wearing them as a fashion statement moved on.
     

  7. gfmozart

    gfmozart Distinguished Member

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    why no dept stores?

    I do think that the masculine color palatte for suiting fabrics is very restrictive and streetwear is going to change that by allowing more color into normal masculine wardrobes.
     

  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    HF used to get more love (like 6 years ago), but as everyone moves to soft tailoring they seem to lost the focus here... for me personally the issue is HF never makes anything stock in 36R or S, it has to be MTO...
     

  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Same thing with Samuelson I guess (not necessarily the soft tailoring part just size), Sam for Saks does have 36 once a while, though I suppose all my Samuelson are all from Paul Stuart
     

  10. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

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    Their Beacon (B) fit is quite nice for a business suit. I agree that soft tailoring is not their forte. Have not tried the newer Hamilton fit. Some of their sport coats in softer fabrics are well done.

    I also find Samuelsohn a bit chunky and stiff except for their Paul Stuart suits. Strange when you think about it.
     

  11. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    I’m sure everyone can do soft tailoring, guess maybe half image issue, when I think HF I think of power suit (which I think is a good thing, just nothing in my size). Interestingly the only Brioni I own is an unlined “soft ish”, so...

    By the way anyone tried the post Attolini Dominco Vacca?
     

  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Stylish Dinosaur

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    wait until the next recession. suits will come back
     

  13. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    My impression has been Sam for PS mainline seems to be stiffer (though losses up in like 2 wear) than Phineas Cole (which is soft right away)
     

  14. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    But still a downtrend, just blip up
     

  15. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Distinguished Member

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    Borrelli has sadly been getting worse and worse ever since their tax evasion scandal.

    It started with cutting costs on a few phases of production (stuff like true hand attached linings, every single buttonhole stitched by hand etc. etc.), then diffusion lines (early Luxury Vintage aside), then simply to just not giving a damn about quality or fabrics at all.

    I personally do own an awful lot of Borrelli from the golden days...they were one of the best RTW makers I've ever handled. They also had several different silhouettes, their completely unlined and true Neapolitan style one (Sorrento fit) being sublime.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2018

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