1. Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Atelier Wen We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Atelier Wen focusing on quality mechanical watches proudly made in China.

The CM Graveyard: First Sartoria Partenopea... next J. Crew?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jrd617, Jun 13, 2017.

  1. gfmozart

    gfmozart Senior Member

    Messages:
    679
    Likes Received:
    207
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2015
    brands that have a lack of interest suffer from either being too boring or too interesting. I might add that eidos (which i have relatively been recently acquainted with ) suffered from being always in the shadow of isaia and was a little too ahead of its time. and i also think that because it was limited in distribution being slightly underhyped, people were more likely to just have regarded it as just another italian label.
     


  2. Riva

    Riva Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,209
    Likes Received:
    503
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    Location:
    Everywhere
    And now we're stuck with mediocre stuff in the market (square safari pockets).
     


  3. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,585
    Likes Received:
    2,042
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    East Coast
    I was referring to it struggling or going out of business. I might have misread the point of the conversation. I love Canali. Amazing suits.

    The only Coneliani I have is some older PRL which is quite nice.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2018


  4. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior Member

    Messages:
    383
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    May 12, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    Wasn't EIDOS suit problem that it turned out to be a niche design that was trying to mass market (Ciro)? While the more commercial silhouettes (Baltasaar? or something) ended up being outcompeted by similar more well known brands?
     


  5. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,585
    Likes Received:
    2,042
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    East Coast
    Anyone wear Hickey Freeman? They don't seem to get much love around here but I've been pretty impressed with their quality of their mainline stuff over the years. Curious to know how they are doing. Much higher quality and better fit than Brooks Brothers, at least for me.

    Lots of Loro Piana.
     


  6. NickPollica

    NickPollica Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,276
    Likes Received:
    5,338
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2010
    Never tried to make the ciro mass market. I wouldn’t let departments stores buy it.

    Eidos’ tailoring never gathered steam for a variety of reasons, but the biggest is that most guys don’t need to wear suits anymore and the trend of wearing them as a fashion statement moved on.
     


  7. gfmozart

    gfmozart Senior Member

    Messages:
    679
    Likes Received:
    207
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2015
    why no dept stores?

    I do think that the masculine color palatte for suiting fabrics is very restrictive and streetwear is going to change that by allowing more color into normal masculine wardrobes.
     


  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

    Messages:
    10,777
    Likes Received:
    1,127
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    HF used to get more love (like 6 years ago), but as everyone moves to soft tailoring they seem to lost the focus here... for me personally the issue is HF never makes anything stock in 36R or S, it has to be MTO...
     


  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

    Messages:
    10,777
    Likes Received:
    1,127
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    Same thing with Samuelson I guess (not necessarily the soft tailoring part just size), Sam for Saks does have 36 once a while, though I suppose all my Samuelson are all from Paul Stuart
     


  10. smittycl

    smittycl Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,585
    Likes Received:
    2,042
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    East Coast
    Their Beacon (B) fit is quite nice for a business suit. I agree that soft tailoring is not their forte. Have not tried the newer Hamilton fit. Some of their sport coats in softer fabrics are well done.

    I also find Samuelsohn a bit chunky and stiff except for their Paul Stuart suits. Strange when you think about it.
     


  11. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

    Messages:
    10,777
    Likes Received:
    1,127
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    I’m sure everyone can do soft tailoring, guess maybe half image issue, when I think HF I think of power suit (which I think is a good thing, just nothing in my size). Interestingly the only Brioni I own is an unlined “soft ish”, so...

    By the way anyone tried the post Attolini Dominco Vacca?
     


  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Stylish Dinosaur

    Messages:
    12,722
    Likes Received:
    795
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    wait until the next recession. suits will come back
     


  13. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

    Messages:
    10,777
    Likes Received:
    1,127
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    My impression has been Sam for PS mainline seems to be stiffer (though losses up in like 2 wear) than Phineas Cole (which is soft right away)
     


  14. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

    Messages:
    10,777
    Likes Received:
    1,127
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    But still a downtrend, just blip up
     


  15. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    6,442
    Likes Received:
    924
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Location:
    Venezia, Italy
    Borrelli has sadly been getting worse and worse ever since their tax evasion scandal.

    It started with cutting costs on a few phases of production (stuff like true hand attached linings, every single buttonhole stitched by hand etc. etc.), then diffusion lines (early Luxury Vintage aside), then simply to just not giving a damn about quality or fabrics at all.

    I personally do own an awful lot of Borrelli from the golden days...they were one of the best RTW makers I've ever handled. They also had several different silhouettes, their completely unlined and true Neapolitan style one (Sorrento fit) being sublime.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2018


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.