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The CM Graveyard: First Sartoria Partenopea... next J. Crew?

othertravel

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@jefferyd were you involved in the pattern making for this RL line (assuming it was made in the HF factory)?
 

smittycl

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so I have a rant about Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole, where should I post, definitely don't want to jinx them either...
So what’s up with Paul Stuart? I only have one suit left from them but a bunch of ties and casual clothes.
 

clee1982

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So what’s up with Paul Stuart? I only have one suit left from them but a bunch of ties and casual clothes.
To be clear nothing "wrong" with Paul Stuart, just a bit oh well as they don't have what I want.

So long story short, they were running 15% off on MTM Phineas Cole, I want a navy pinstripe (easy enough request I would think) in one of the newer Phineas Cole cut, it's the one with lower buttoning point, still by Samuelsohn, though they have gone soft, no roping, oh well on that one, also want to change pocket to slanted, add ticket button, plus adjust the trouser to be less slim in leg opening and higher rise. It was great that all this stuff can be done no issue, but then finally need to pick a clothe, well turns out what I want was all <8.5oz or >14oz (if I stay with in the normal A/B/C/D pricing tier, i.e. ~$2.5k max).

I would have thought navy pinstripe 11~12oz should be an easy request, guess not in today's light clothe era...

They did pull out some 11~12oz chalk stripe ish looking thing in the end, but one was LP at nearly $4k while the other one was $3.5k, I like the cut, but not loving enough to spend that much on pretty much just an MTO (i.e. at that point i would just pay up to do bespoke, also I'm not doing MtM because COVID, luckily Phineas Cole fits me pretty much spot on off the rack so I can just tell them 36S in jacket, and change the pants leg opening + higher rise).

So in the end nothing against the business itself, just kind annoying I can't find a something that I thought is simple (navy pinstripe) in 11~12oz in these days and age as "staple"
 

clee1982

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I know, you would think they want the business, guess not enough, I’m on to spend 2.5k on basically MTO (not even MTM), but 3.5 to 4K, no way.
 

FlyingHorker

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Jackets are at bellboy length... What the heck is RL thinking??
I think these look much better than the average DB jacket out there these days.

Most DBs nowadays are cut lean, unpadded, and have a square silhouette and/or flare out at the hips.

Due to the closed quarters, these actually look pretty balanced to my eye.
 

smittycl

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I think these look much better than the average DB jacket out there these days.

Most DBs nowadays are cut lean, unpadded, and have a square silhouette and/or flare out at the hips.

Due to the closed quarters, these actually look pretty balanced to my eye.
IDK, I can't get past the short jacket.
 

gdl203

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They can advertise the convenience features of this jacket: the only DB suit that lets you urinate without even unbuttoning the jacket!
 

clee1982

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IDK, I can't get past the short jacket.

this in navy pinstripe instead (and white stripe not some muted grey stripe), and proper length would be happy to buy for sure

or this just in the right length, though can' see getting out a lot wear out of this one...


I mean in general I don't get a lot wear out of DB, maybe if I ever get DB again it should just be a dinner jacket?
 

smittycl

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this in navy pinstripe instead (and white stripe not some muted grey stripe), and proper length would be happy to buy for sure

or this just in the right length, though can' see getting out a lot wear out of this one...


I mean in general I don't get a lot wear out of DB, maybe if I ever get DB again it should just be a dinner jacket?
Nicer, but still a bit short I think. Super-expensive and mostly sold out as mentioned earlier.
 

clee1982

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yea, need to be proper length, but we all know stock photo is f*ed up anyway, I have almost never ran into RLPL (at least in my size) that I go wow that was too short (I definitely have in say Polo)
 

clee1982

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They can advertise the convenience features of this jacket: the only DB suit that lets you urinate without even unbuttoning the jacket!
separate question though, how do you wear this kind of color as a suit, other than white shirt, like I see zero combination, not sure shoe either, black is too much contrast, dark brown doesn't work, have to be just the right shade of light brown (like I would think tan is too light)
 

clee1982

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$3.5k MTM... 🥴
and in another note, if you guys have something more structured/English and in same price range as you do for sartoria carrara then can probably count me in...
 

smittycl

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yea, need to be proper length, but we all know stock photo is f*ed up anyway, I have almost never ran into RLPL (at least in my size) that I go wow that was too short (I definitely have in say Polo)
Suit is gray so you could pull off a blue shirt, solid or patterned.
 

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