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The CM Graveyard: First Sartoria Partenopea... next J. Crew?

othertravel

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Mr. Porter private sale is on. Anybody try the Kingsman suits?
 

clee1982

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no idea, but more importantly, do you have to be invited :p?
 

clee1982

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oh and thought I read somewhere the earlier kingsman suit were designed by Thom Sweeney then become someone else? Though don't think they fit the same Thom Sweeney is TTS think Kingsman fit small (or some of its model does)
 

othertravel

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Yeah, invitation based on how much was spent. 30% off, so not amazing.
 

smittycl

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ugh that gorge on the shoulder line, the buttoning point at the diaphragm level :(
Okay, just got my Sartorial Partenopea back from my tailor. Needs a good steaming I think to get some wrinkles out. Fits quite well and gorge is not quite as high as it looked on the mannequin. Buttoning point is Canali-high but I’m okay with that. I love the lapels.

EDIT: there’s a toilet in the shot!

1D105AEA-FF95-448E-A7E7-663DB7FA75A6.jpeg EC165671-DEC0-4FBC-86B4-FB58B3403396.jpeg E4CF537F-2292-49B7-9000-DCF90AD4ACCD.jpeg
 
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othertravel

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Gus

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Vacca dead

A $4MM rent is pretty steep to begin with. But I'm not really sure he offered much that was all that special the last 10 years. I think he ended up chasing wealthy Russians who were more interested in the well know International fashion brands. Had he kept more of a boutique feel and not set up the club etc., would he have made it?

I really enjoyed his stores in the early 2000's where he had beautiful handmade items from Italy. It was a mix of classic and a bit of flair. Very much like the Borrelli boutiques. Tommy Hilfigar opened his downtown flagship across from his small store in SoHo (Vacca also had a small shop up on 60th) . Tommy used to come over, get things made and was clearly influenced by his shirts (he soon copied many of their features in a RTW manner for his product line).
 

clee1982

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They had more than one shop on UES back then, definitely was more classical than what it becomes today
 

Loathing

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Barbs Napoli just opened it’s first London flagship store in Jermyn Street. Interesting move considering the general trend of declining classic menswear - although I do think London is a bit of an exception.
 

emptym

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