The Chicago thread - local recommendations, trunk shows, goings-on, etc.

[letsgofire]

Alterations question. I took a pair of linen pants and a linen shirt to Akram Hanna in the 900 N. Michigan Shops complex. Akram couldn't have been friendlier or more competent. However, I was shocked by the price he quoted me: $215! I had sleeves shortened and sides taken in on the shirt, and pants hemmed and the seat taken in. Those are pretty basic alterations that a competent dry cleaner could do for probably $30. I came here expecting to spend quite a bit more than that--but 7x was a real killjoy on otherwise excellent work.

I know folks love Nick at Oak Street Tailors, but it's hard for me to get there during his normal business hours. So, just curious: is that pricing completely out of line with your experience, or do I need to adjust my expectations?

I think your expectations may not be in line with typical costs. Most alterations of any kind seem to be $30 or more these days and you’ve mentioned multiple ones. Sleeve shortening is more expensive when the tailor has to go from the shoulder, such as if you already had functioning buttonholes, which could also explain the cost.

Oak Street Tailors would be a ‘full experience / top quality’ option.

 

[SolomonMarlow]

If I want to buy a somewhat nice off the rack suit ASAP in Chicago, where should I go? I'd like something with a more classic cut (not super slim fit), and the only option I'm sort of aware of is Polo Ralph Lauren (I have an interview that I have to travel for on Sunday unexpectedly).

 

[jimney]

Nordstrom, Nieman Marcus maybe? Syd Jerome might be an option. Depends on what you’re looking to spend.

 

[SolomonMarlow]

Let's say in the 900-1200-ish range.

 

[Duke Santos]

Let's say in the 900-1200-ish range.

Saks used to have a made in Italy range. I have a suit, a sportcoat and a pair of black tie pants from the range. All are very good construction and high quality fabrics.

 

[teddieriley]

Suit supply, but I recognize that may be less classic, but they may have a model that fits the look you’re going for.

 

[nickurfe]

Suit supply, but I recognize that may be less classic, but they may have a model that fits the look you’re going for.

Seconding this. They're reasonably decent QPR and can turn around solid tailoring same-day if you need it.

 

[JohnMRobie]

My tailor Antonio Pastena from Naples just added Chicago to his stop for trunk shows the 25th and 26th of September.

Now to figure out how mad my wife would be if I skipped the trunk show in my city and came back to visit family, meet up with him and eat my way through all the old haunts...

I did feed Antonio Girodano's when he was here and he was not a fan. But I think I'll take him to Green Street Smoked meats for lunch one day and probably to RPM Steak and then send him home with a pile of treats from Sweet Mandy B's and Stan's for his family to enjoy.

 

[Jacob23]

Just moved to Chicago and looking to commission a sport coat for this winter. This would be my first custom sport coat, and want to get a green flannel/tweed (ideally in a softer cut as well).

I noticed that Richard Bennett has been discussed in this thread. Do they come recommended here in Chicago? I've read some mixed reviews online about their service, so wanted to see if people have any recent feedback.

Additionally, are there any other recommendations in Chicago for under ~$2k? I heard Divij Bespoke visits Chicago regularly, but their process would likely take longer. Is it worth the wait for their items given the positive reviews around the forum?

 

[jimney]

Just moved to Chicago and looking to commission a sport coat for this winter. This would be my first custom sport coat, and want to get a green flannel/tweed (ideally in a softer cut as well).

I noticed that Richard Bennett has been discussed in this thread. Do they come recommended here in Chicago? I've read some mixed reviews online about their service, so wanted to see if people have any recent feedback.

Additionally, are there any other recommendations in Chicago for under ~$2k? I heard Divij Bespoke visits Chicago regularly, but their process would likely take longer. Is it worth the wait for their items given the positive reviews around the forum?

I recommend Richard Bennett - I’ve only had good experiences, and it’s much easier to work with a tailor here in town to get fittings done in a timely manner. I’m not sure there’s anyone else in the city doing actual bespoke.

One thing to think about - if you have stylistic preferences for cut, shoulder shape, etc., make sure to bring all that up. I’d say it’s different from like an English tailor with a specific house style.

 

[Jacob23]

I recommend Richard Bennett - I’ve only had good experiences, and it’s much easier to work with a tailor here in town to get fittings done in a timely manner. I’m not sure there’s anyone else in the city doing actual bespoke.

One thing to think about - if you have stylistic preferences for cut, shoulder shape, etc., make sure to bring all that up. I’d say it’s different from like an English tailor with a specific house style.

Thank you for providing your feedback, Jimney. I appreciate it! Glad to hear you've had good experiences there.

As you said, it would be ideal to work with a tailor in town to expedite the process. Is their process full bespoke, including basted fittings? I called in earlier and they seem to be operating at a quite good price point as well.

I'm not as well versed as many here in terms of styling, but as I understand it I'm looking for something slightly more Neapolitan with a soft or natural shoulder and a more casual cut with patch pockets. Trying to avoid anything too structured or formal. I've always thought Anglo Italian's color palette and cut would fit me well (examples here). Would you be aware of whether this is a style they can accomplish? Perhaps providing them with examples would be helpful.

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[jimney]

Thank you for providing your feedback, Jimney. I appreciate it! Glad to hear you've had good experiences there.

As you said, it would be ideal to work with a tailor in town to expedite the process. Is their process full bespoke, including basted fittings? I called in earlier and they seem to be operating at a quite good price point as well.

I'm not as well versed as many here in terms of styling, but as I understand it I'm looking for something slightly more Neapolitan with a soft or natural shoulder and a more casual cut with patch pockets. Trying to avoid anything too structured or formal. I've always thought Anglo Italian's color palette and cut would fit me well (examples here). Would you be aware of whether this is a style they can accomplish? Perhaps providing them with examples would be helpful.

Thanks again for all your help.

They do full bespoke, including multiple fittings as needed. I think they still also offer MTM but I’ve only been doing the bespoke for the last couple years. I think if you bring in pictures that will be helpful - point out things like lapel width, buttoning points, how form-fitting or loose you want it, how open the front quarters are, the shape of the shoulders that you want.

Bonus picture of a jacket fitting I actually was in for this week. I look like a goof ass because I wasn’t intending to share it, but here we are.

 

[Jacob23]

They do full bespoke, including multiple fittings as needed. I think they still also offer MTM but I’ve only been doing the bespoke for the last couple years. I think if you bring in pictures that will be helpful - point out things like lapel width, buttoning points, how form-fitting or loose you want it, how open the front quarters are, the shape of the shoulders that you want.

Bonus picture of a jacket fitting I actually was in for this week. I look like a goof ass because I wasn’t intending to share it, but here we are.

Thanks for the help, Jimney. That's great to know. I'll call in and see if they're familiar with cutting a more Neapolitan style.

Congratulations on the new commission as well. Looks like its coming along nicely!

 

[letsgofire]

I have maybe 7-9 shoe trees in size UK9 / US10 from Skoaktiebolaget and a few other places that I have decided to part with.

Free to whoever wants them.

Only requirement is you come collect them from me in Chicago. Message me directly if you want them.

 

[Illini72]

Hello All - a couple of seams on the lining in my Oxxford suit has come undone. Can someone recommend a tailor or seamstress downtown that can fix this? Thanks in advance.