The BlazerSuit™ ... Part Deux!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 23, 2009.

  1. bluemagic

    bluemagic Senior member

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    I like the Berkeley look the best. Are those shoulders considered roped shoulders? I am still learning about shoulders on suits.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I was distracted by the striped trou being worn without matching coat.
    I think they guy is wearing a suit but took it off too the jacket to play the round. When it's over, he will put it back on.

    Got it, the search continues. Hopefully the football resurgence will help to create a market for a Cal stripe tie without a logo.
    This is not an "official" licenced Cal tie; I think it is just a rep stripe they found and bought because it had the right colors.

    Braided belt? [​IMG]
    With the CA Tux? You bet.

    The dark buttons don't work well when the coat is worn as a non-suit.
    Switch to the planned brown, or try a lighter, mottled blue or tan horn.

    I am on the fence. I think the blue buttons look fine with the gray flannels, not so good with the khaki.

    More than Golden Bale? Or perhaps there is no equivalent in that book?
    You know, I did not look. My default position on Golden Bale is that I never want to pay for it.

    Are those shoulders considered roped shoulders? I am still learning about shoulders on suits.

    Anti rope. That is a shirt-sleeve shoulder.
     
  3. bluemagic

    bluemagic Senior member

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    The shirt-sleeve shoulder seems to be rather anti-i-Gent, no? (That is, dramatic rather than subtle.)
     
  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The shirt-sleeve shoulder seems to be rather anti-i-Gent, no? (That is, dramatic rather than subtle.)

    I don't think so. I think it is the least noticable shoulder. Roping is very dramatic, but it is not iGent. That is, it is not iGent according to the FNB meaning, which is "Whatever Manton wears."
     
  5. UnFacconable

    UnFacconable Senior member

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    This is not an "official" licenced Cal tie; I think it is just a rep stripe they found and bought because it had the right colors.


    I knew it wasn't an official licensed tie, and don't think the bookstore or similar will ever have a nice logo-less tie in the right colors, but I do think that (like you see with other regional fan bases) that with the resurgence (surgence?) of the football program I've seen more people sporting Cal gear in and around the bay area and hopefully that will lead to some of the better men's stores sourcing ties.

    I do think the California tux is a great look for this Blazersuit, as are the others.
     
  6. bluemagic

    bluemagic Senior member

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    I don't think so. I think it is the least noticable shoulder. Roping is very dramatic, but it is not iGent. That is, it is not iGent according to the FNB meaning, which is "Whatever Manton wears."
    When I use the term iGent, I am trying to reclaim it from the pejorative sense in which it was coined. Is that shoulder really less noticeable than a soft shoulder without that point sticking up from the edge? It kind of bugs me. I meant that it might not be iGent because that point is dramatic, not subtle like the iGent style.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I think that little puff is there because the sleevhead wadding has not yet broken down. It will happen.
     
  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I meant that it might not be iGent because that point is dramatic, not subtle like the iGent style.

    When is iGent style subtle?
     
  9. bluemagic

    bluemagic Senior member

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    I think that little puff is there because the sleevhead wadding has not yet broken down. It will happen.
    I have not purchased many a sportcoat or suit because it had that little puff. [​IMG]
    When is iGent style subtle?
    MantonStyle is quite subtle.
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I have not purchased many a sportcoat or suit because it had that little puff. [​IMG]

    It depends on how the jacket is made. My jackets all have shirt-set sleeves; sometimes they start out with a little 'puff', but it settles after a while.

    MantonStyle is quite subtle.

    True. But for that to be determinative, you have to assume Manton is the iGent phenomenon himself. I view him more as one of it's priests.
     
  11. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I have not purchased many a sportcoat or suit because it had that little puff. [​IMG]

    Any inset sleeve, padded or not, wadded or not, will puff because of the way the seam is sewn. The shirt sleevehead is the only way to achieve a truly puffless sleeve. Here is what one looks like after some wear:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. crazyquik

    crazyquik Senior member

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    Copying an old AA illustration (nothing more iGent than that!). Light gray flannels, white button down, orange knit tie:

    [​IMG][/url]

    [​IMG][/url]


    Missing something. Hmm. Perhaps you could retake with an open SAB over your shoulder?

    I agree with Dopey, blue buttons make it look too much like an orphaned suit coat when worn as a blazer.
     
  13. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Shouldn't a spalla camicia not puff, even when new, because of the way the sleeve allowance is forced into the sleeve head?
     
  14. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You know, I did not look. My default position on Golden Bale is that I never want to pay for it.



    .


    A reasonable stance, especially since we're talking about a bit of a workhorse.

    Still, now that I've got most of my winter staples in order, I think I might take a dip into that book just to see if it is worth the trouble.
     
  15. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Shouldn't a spalla camicia not puff, even when new, because of the way the sleeve allowance is forced into the sleeve head?
    They still puff a bit in my experience. The puff is just a different puff.
     

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