The blasphemous odd vest/ jacket thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by size 38R, Jul 25, 2013.

  1. size 38R

    size 38R Senior member

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    That's a great vest, jacket combo. i feel the pants are too much in the same color palette, some dark grey's would look nice. but, great entry! your fit belongs here. thanks for posting.[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2013


  2. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

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    I think this is a great outfit. I especially like the mixture of herringbone and checks. I actually have something like this in my arsenal. Fit pics to come. On the other hand, I can't help but to feel this is a "safe" outfit. I would love to see more examples of tasteful but daring fits. Oh yeah, what happened to the tie dimple? - 5 points for not having the dimple. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2013


  3. size 38R

    size 38R Senior member

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    I believe i do go out dressed like that, just not everyday. as today i am only wearing an odd jacket. [​IMG]



    here's a nice vest pic to keep things going..
    [​IMG]


    mt spiffy is almost there, would like him to join the fun.[​IMG]
     


  4. Digmenow

    Digmenow Senior member

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    Corduroy and denim. No vest.

    [​IMG]

    I should probably get the elbow patches redone in something darker.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2013


  5. size 38R

    size 38R Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    Dig! Welcome to the thread, looks great! [​IMG] darker patches would be awesome. Lovin it.
     


  6. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    I hope you note the fundamental differences between what Dig is doing and what you are doing. It could help you improve the way you dress if, of course, you are actually open to learning how to improve...
     


  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]



    Still, here's to optimism
    [​IMG]


    And I will, at some point, be wearing one of my few odd vests. And it will be with a jacket. And it will not be with jeans. But an odd vest nonetheless. Because I shouldn't be all snark.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2013


  8. size 38R

    size 38R Senior member

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    [​IMG] Dude , you crack me up. do you really think with my wardrobe i don't dress like that ?? - on a "Casual Day" i wear jeans, quality shirt, and a s/c or passable orphan.
    Dig looks great! but we are different ages, shapes, and personal styles.
    this thread is here to push the envelope , and demonstrate that "classic menswear" goes a lot further,and is more diverse, than what a very small niche group of people unrealistically believe. menswear as we know it has been evolving for centuries, and is more complex than a 20-30 year "golden age" however "safe' the styling in that period might be. a man's clothes represent his Culture, intellect, profession, personality, courage, and self awareness. you either stand out, or blend in.

    personally, i prefer the time period of 1880-1920. in regards to classic menswear, when gentlemen wore hats, and mixed colors and textures. with clothes put together with function and durability in mind. that is the theory i would like to represent, the "Gentleman culture" where odd items are a staple if you are not super rich. but still people see you as such on a daily basis. now........... Show me your odd fits! [​IMG] and wear a hat.[​IMG]
     


  9. size 38R

    size 38R Senior member

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    i look forward to it. [​IMG] your own style while being a little adventurous is just fine. [​IMG]
     


  10. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

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    The one and only Mr. Dig, ladies and gentlemen! Good to see a familiar face here! [​IMG]
    [​IMG] munch munch
     


  11. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

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    Amidst all the trolling and hate for the OP, this post got ignored. I somewhat agree with 38 R on the definition of classic men's wear. To me, defining what's classic sometimes could be aiming at a moving target. How far back do we have to go? Back to the 1940's or to the 19th century? I'm not a historian but I would think the costumes of Gangs of New York does a some what of an accurate portrayal of what men wore in Manhattan back then. Maybe the pictured costumes are a bit on the exaggerated side, I still would think the idea of paring odd trousers, odd vests, with an overcoat was fairly common.

    Also, let's take this picture of Prince William for a second, this is a perfect example of what a classic British morning suit consist of, a black morning coat, an odd waistcoat, double breasted even, paired with striped trousers.
    [​IMG]
    Personally, this getup goes against everything I've learned from SF during the last a year and a half. Because they are commonly known as "reverse orphans", you just don't wear striped trousers by itself, period. But apparently, you don't get anymore classic than this. So, it's ok to break the sacred SF rule and wear reverse orphan? But only in the morning and maybe it's ok when you are British? [​IMG]

    Also in this wicked fit by An Accute Style,
    [​IMG]

    traditionally, the madras pattern is considered to be one of the popular fabric amongst the ivy/preppy crowd. But I can only imagine what did the westerners first thought of the fabric when it was imported from India. Did they immediately embrace it or did they jeer and laugh at the first daring westerners who wore the madras patterned clothing in pubic? How long did it take for the public to accept it's ok to wear such loud pattern to social event? I don't know but maybe someone could educate me on the subject. [​IMG]

    I guess the bottom line is when, how, and why did the odd and weird become acceptable and classic? Maybe someone else could word it better than I could cuz I'm running on 2 hours of sleep and my eye lids are getting heavier by the second...Zzz [​IMG]
     


  12. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

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    Oh, would someone please explain to me why do classic men's opera pumps have fracking BOWS on it???!!! [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  13. mezentius

    mezentius Senior member

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    Well, the rules which SF recommend apply to suits, not to morning dress. Now, I'm quite new at this, but if I had to take a punt at the underlying aesthetic principle behind this contradiction, I would say that because morning coats have that tail, they look like an outer layer to the trousers, which allows mismatches (as you would between a suit and a shirt) while maintaining visual coherence. Suits, however, truncate at a uniform level, thus if you reverse orphan with a suit then you'll look as though you're cut in half, breaking the visual connection between top and bottom and thus looking rather terrible (see OP's first picture).

    Rules aren't about when or by whom they are set up; they are merely neatly summarised condensations of basic aesthetic principles (well, at least the rules endorsed by CM anyway).

    And OP, another forum which I frequent enforces banning people who reply with only image macros. Now I begin to see why it would annoy them so much. Nevertheless, good topic for a thread - it would be interesting to see how people can successfully marry these two styles.
     


  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As far as the pinstriped odd/orphan trousers--they work in the context of a morning suit. Perhaps in a few formal evening wear contexts. They don't work anywhere on the normal, everyday scale of casualness-formality.

    CM is absolutely a moving target, but it is one which moves upon a fairly linear path. Yes, there are tangents, but decade to decade menswear tends to return to some gradually changing mean. There needs to be a sense of continuity; simply because it was considered classic menswear four or five decades ago doesn't mean we can pluck it out of a bygone era--as well as perhaps pluck it out of its sartorial context--and proclaim it to be classic menswear. That which we associate with classic menswear tends to be present, decade to decade, slowly evolving.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2013


  15. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Striped odd trousers are an integrated part of the morning suit look, complete with a long morning coat and vest, but you don't wear it outside of formal day dress. Sort of like how you wouldn't take a wing collar shirt out of white tie and wear it with a suit or wear a tailcoat with a regular spread collar shirt and four in hand tie. It's also worth noting that traditionally one wears a special sort of cashmere stripe trouser with a morning coat and you would not wear this trouser on its own or have a suit made from that cloth.

    I agree that classic menswear is a moving target, but as Claghorn said, you get some sort of linear progression over time. In the era when strollers were regularly worn as semi-formal day dress and the lounge suit was seen as informal, certain non-matching trouser or jacket sets were seen as more formal than a suit where jacket and trouser matched. The morning coat is also a product of that tradition but remains the only exception to the rule that matching pants and jacket are more formal than odd jackets and odd trousers (well, the stroller, but nobody wears the stroller). In Brummel's time, coats were not matched to trousers for purposes of formality either. Today, however, people dress differently because the suit has taken on the role of the most formal thing a man wears outside of specifically regimented formalwear (morning coat during the day, black tie at night and sometimes white tie at night).
     


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