The blasphemous odd vest/ jacket thread

[archibaldleach]



I really don't like the button down collar at all.

It's a uniquely American thing, so far as I can tell. The button down collar is so rare I honestly don't know where I would buy one here in the UK, and it always looks particularly wrong to british eyes.

I'm in this camp as well. I realize that it is a quintessential American look, but I've just never been a fan. I keep trying to like it and it just doesn't happen. I'll probably try an OCBD from Luxire at some point as an inexpensive experiment. I'd probably wear it tie-less with a tweed or corduroy odd jacket. Maybe it would work in that context for me.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

It's a uniquely American thing, so far as I can tell. The button down collar is so rare I honestly don't know where I would buy one here in the UK, and it always looks particularly wrong to british eyes.

I'm British and I would say that's simply not true. Although they are associated more with the USA, button-downs have been popular in the Uk for many years, and were particularly popular amongst mods. Many British clothing companies make them - Ben Sherman in particular, and all the entry-level shirtmkers like Trywhitt and Lewin. Certainly, they are regarded more as casual in the UK, but a knit tie with a button-down is not outside the realms of normal casual wear, whether it's your personal preference or not.

 

[katabatic]

I do, in fact, have a couple of Ben Sherman button downs. They're the only inexpensive RTW brand I've found whose slim fit shirts approximate an actual slim fit (although they can still use a bit of slimming).

 

[FlyingMonkey]

I do, in fact, have a couple of Ben Sherman button downs. They're the only inexpensive RTW brand I've found whose slim fit shirts approximate an actual slim fit (although they can still use a bit of slimming).

I agree. I have a couple of their OCBDs which I bought when I had an unforeseen need for a smart casual shirt a few years ago, and actually, I like them a lot and wear them regularly (even on fits here and no-one has noticed...).

 

[Claghorn]

FM, I thought you were Canadian.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

FM, I thought you were Canadian.

Not at all. I live and work there normally, although I'm currently in Tokyo for a year (my wife is Japanese). Definitely British though.

 

[Claghorn]

Mine is Korean. If you end up in Seoul at some point, shoot me a message.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Mine is Korean. If you end up in Seoul at some point, shoot me a message.

And vice-versa. I am going to organise a Tokyo meet-up in the autumn, but it's probably a little too far for you to come from Korea unless you can get one of those new cheaper regional airlines.

 

[size 38R]

I'm British and I would say that's simply not true. Although they are associated more with the USA, button-downs have been popular in the Uk for many years, and were particularly popular amongst mods. Many British clothing companies make them - Ben Sherman in particular, and all the entry-level shirtmkers like Trywhitt and Lewin. Certainly, they are regarded more as casual in the UK, but a knit tie with a button-down is not outside the realms of normal casual wear, whether it's your personal preference or not.

Well, he IS right there..............

I would fly in for the tokyo meet, but... i will be in the u.s. for another SF meet. with the Cali. guys.
sorry, surely the tokyo fashion is not sf approved. but cool. sad to miss it.

 

[Butler]

Well, the rules which SF recommend apply to suits, not to morning dress. Now, I'm quite new at this, but if I had to take a punt at the underlying aesthetic principle behind this contradiction, I would say that because morning coats have that tail, they look like an outer layer to the trousers, which allows mismatches (as you would between a suit and a shirt) while maintaining visual coherence. Suits, however, truncate at a uniform level, thus if you reverse orphan with a suit then you'll look as though you're cut in half, breaking the visual connection between top and bottom and thus looking rather terrible (see OP's first picture).

When full morning dress is too formal, there is the semi-formal stroller, with same general color scheme but with a black suit jacket and grey striped (or patterned, there is more leeway here) pants. So it's not strictly the tail coat Stroller on the left, morning dress on the right. I think that general advice is to avoid mix-and-matching unless you are really confident about it. Otherwise it is very easy to end up looking funny. Edit: Didn't see the above comment on the stroller. Yes, nobody wears the stroller without it looking more like a costume than "classic"

Sorry, but I have never been accused of "costume", when wearing it (on appropriate occasions only, of course) - perhaps due to my advanced age and perceived hearing issues

To get back to the thread - I much prefer same trouser and waistcoat with an odd coat - it elongates those of us who are vertically challenged, and there is plenty of historical precedence

 

[barrelntrigger]

Sorry, but I have never been accused of "costume", when wearing it (on appropriate occasions only, of course) - perhaps due to my advanced age and perceived hearing issues

To get back to the thread - I much prefer same trouser and waistcoat with an odd coat - it elongates those of us who are vertically challenged, and there is plenty of historical precedence

 

[katabatic]

Butler, your cream & brown linen suits make me wish I had my blue linen suit made as a three piece. Next summer I intend to get a brown one made as well. I suppose I could go back and get a vest made too...that fabric is probably still available.

Anyway - this is pretty much on the "safe" end of odd vests. I bought a linen henley via yoox, and it came with a surprise linen cardigan in a nice light blue color. Everything in this picture is linen - suit, vest, shirt, pocket square, and hat.