The Best Suit Ever. See It Here.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DocHolliday, May 19, 2009.

  1. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    I've always understood that a Kent DB is simply a four button, not specifically a 4x1. Does anybody else think that a 4x1 looks much sillier than a 4x2?

    no. i love the 4x1. actually i like the look of a 6x1 as well, there is something atypical but at the same time diplomatic looking in the bottom buttoning effect.
     
  2. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    no. i love the 4x1. actually i like the look of a 6x1 as well, there is something atypical but at the same time diplomatic looking in the bottom buttoning effect.

    Fair enough, but am I correct in my semantics - that Kent merely means a four-button of indeterminate buttoning?
     
  3. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    This:

    [​IMG]


    My nomination, courtesy of Will:

    [​IMG]


    these two are spectacular
     
  4. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    no. i love the 4x1. actually i like the look of a 6x1 as well, there is something atypical but at the same time diplomatic looking in the bottom buttoning effect.

    +1, e.g. http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.p...64&postcount=1
     
  5. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Once upon a time, the London Lounge had a fantastic thread on the "Kent" style of DB suitcoat. Lots of great pictures and discussion. I hope it is not gone forever (and I might even have it clipped somewhere).
     
  6. Anthony Jordan

    Anthony Jordan Senior member

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    I also like the 4x1 - it is a classic staple for dinner jackets, thus:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I believe that Kent style jackets can equally be 6x2s worn with the lapel rolled to the bottom button, as here:

    [​IMG]

    Here's a nice Kent 4x2:
    [​IMG]
     
  7. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    I also believe (as per my first post on this thread) that the Kent style is just any DB rolled to the lowest button. They started out as 4B because that was the prevailing DB style at the time, but then they adapted to the fashion for 6B. Gianni Agnelli's DB suits were almost all Kent style, typically 4B in his youth, and 6B later on.
     
  8. instep

    instep Senior member

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    It might be this one:

    [​IMG]

    If not, I'm pretty sure it was owned by Patrick Macnee in the 1960s.

    In this thread, please post images of suits and sportcoats you consider ideal. The more perfectly they match your tastes, the better. Please explain, if you wish, what you find so appealing. If it's one of yours, all the better.

    In the one above, the shape of the waist and the flare of the skirt are spectacular. Patrick was a stocky man during his Avengers stint, but you wouldn't know it by looking at him. That's tailoring magic.

    The other details are perfect. The trousers are slim, but not too slim. The lapels are narrow but not too narrow. It's entirely conservative, yet not at all fuddy duddy. It is, in short, the height of style. I might soften the shoulders a bit, but a wise tailor would probably tell me I was a fool for considering it.

    If you don't have any pictures of your own to share, you may use the thread to bask in the greatness of Patrick Macnee's suit.

    I'm sorry Doc, but there is very little I like about this suit.

    What you consider 'spectacular' about the waist on his jacket, I simply do not see. It is effeminite to the nth degree and shaped terribly to me, reminding me too much of this:

    [​IMG]

    To me, it is questionable judgment cramming a full 3B onto a short man; the area of exposed shirt is too small - a longer, deeper 'V' could have served to lengthen his frame more effectively. I am not sure why his last button is buttoned as well.

    I also question the wisdom of putting what appear to be 2" cuffs on a short man, highlighting his lack of height. And having such narrow trousers on a man with an obviously built upper body - he looks like he might topple over.

    All in all, he looks like a bung fritz about to burst its wrapping in that suit. The only thing I like about it are the shoulders.
     
  9. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Funny, the shoulders are the part I like least. Bit stronger than I generally prefer.

    Patrick's not really short, though. At least by my definition. He's 6 feet.

    I've never really understood the "effeminate" concern about waist shaping. A muscular dude in good shape has broad shoulders and a narrow waist, and this echoes that. If anything, it makes Patrick's shoulders look broader and his waist narrower than they really were. The shaping, admittedly, is a bit extreme, but it's unusual mainly in that most guys in the U.S. wear shapeless coats.

    I've seen some waist suppression that I did think looked a bit feminine, but this doesn't, at least to my eye. YMMV.

    As for the bottom button, I think the buttons are positioned sufficiently high to look fine done up. On most coats, doing so would throw off the shaping, but not here. Patrick knows a thing or two about clothes, having worked with his personal tailor to formulate Steed's distinctive look, so I'm assuming he had the coat cut to allow this.

    Cary Grant buttoned all three now and then too, IIRC.
     
  10. instep

    instep Senior member

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    Thanks for your reply, Doc. Hmmm, for some reason I got the overall impression that he was a short man. The suit perhaps? I keed, I keed. [​IMG] If anything, it's a manifestation of the importance one's clothes play in creating an overall impression. I take your point on button stance, and agree. What doesn't convince me though, is whether they should be positioned that high. The button positioning on his jacket reminds me a tad of a safari jacket, and for some strange reason, a schoolboy. My concerns with the waist suppression to a small degree are about the 'starkness' of the contrast, but mostly revolve around the shape - I'm not sure the 'bell' silhouette accurately reflects a muscular man's shape to me, if that makes any sense at all. [​IMG]
     
  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    John Steed was not a real man, but a character on a television show.

    This is why, for example, his bowler could repel bullets.


    - B
     
  12. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    John Steed was not a real man, but a character on a television show.

    That's exactly what Steed wants you to think.
     
  13. Connemara

    Connemara [URL='http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jST2Sv63WQ']

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    Found it! [​IMG]
     
  14. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A couple more best suits. I really like the worsted cloth, subdued color and button format on Grant's North by Northwest suit, but find the shoulders too strong/square. Otherwise it's almost perfect.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    This has a similar feel, but I'd prefer a little wider lapels.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. meister

    meister Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][/quote]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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