The best Saville Row tailors?

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

This and Vox' post are really the end of teh conversation. Having just had my first walkthrough and visit of several of the tailors on the row last week was invaluable. And if I ever can step up to Row bespoke- it'll be another couple of visits before I can make up my mind.

Sorry to quote myself

But in support of what I said above and the other main tenants of this threak, I made another trip down the row Friday and revisisted several of the houses. Best time spent in London other than the vacation part

.

The first trip left me with several impressions of both house styles and personality.

The second trip reinforced and countermanded some of those impressions.
I'll not slag the few folks I met with who left me with a negative impression of their customer service/attitude on both occasions.

But I will mention the two that I really had a great vibe from. They were most willing to sit down, dig through books, talk about personal tastes and wants. The staffs were just fun. Those were Poole and A&S. Especially fun at A&S was taking down the customer books and thumbing through to see the signatures, measurements etc of Cary Grant and other luminaries.

So my hunch is leaning to A&S for a first bespoke effort.

 

[lasbar]

Have you been to Norton, Richard Anderson or Huntsman?
Patrick Grant is very nice and easy to talk to...
The same applies to Brian L from Richard Anderson and Johnny Allen from Huntsman...
I have been also received very well at Henry Poole by Mr Alexander.
Where have you been badly received?

 

[David Reeves]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Can anyone comment on Doug Hayward's suits now that the man is gone? I've always been a big fan of his stuff as seen in SR books and various movies, and always thought that he had excellent taste.

PS: I know the shop is not technically on SR

First off I agree with you about being a fan of Dougie. Unfortunately in the years before he died we started seeing rather bad looking suits coming out of his place. Maybe he wasn't doing the work himself.

I wouldn't chance it now especially with them going bust.

On another issue has anyone had anything made by Hardy Amies? I never hear anyone talking about going there. I think he was a rather underestimated designer. Of course he did well but I always think he deserved more recognition.

 

[courty]

Who is the "best" will always have a heavy subjective element. That said, I do not think you can go far wrong with Poole (unless you are set on the A&S look). They can make any garment you like in any style you prefer. Plus, Poole's prices are in the middle of the SR range.

 

[voxsartoria]

Ultimate Bespoke.


- B

 

[rnoldh]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Ultimate Bespoke.


- B

"So, what do you get for £45,000?"

Commission one Of his suits Bill! Take one for the team, and report back.

Surely, Edwin won't be upset if you commission one garment from Westmanscott.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by rnoldh

"So, what do you get for £45,000?"

Commission one Of his suits Bill! Take one for the team, and report back.

Surely, Edwin won't be upset if you commission one garment from Westmanscott.

I don't think that he is an active independent tailor at the current time.

It is hard to say if the dream of Ultimate Bespoke will ever live again.


- B

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by lasbar

Have you been to Norton, Richard Anderson or Huntsman?
Patrick Grant is very nice and easy to talk to...
The same applies to Brian L from Richard Anderson and Johnny Allen from Huntsman...
I have been also received very well at Henry Poole by Mr Alexander.
Where have you been badly received?

I didn't get to Anderson. I did get to the other two. Liked them both though not a particular fan of the Huntsman style (nor Dege for similar reasons).

 

[David Reeves]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I don't think that he is an active independent tailor at the current time.

It is hard to say if the dream of Ultimate Bespoke will ever live again.


- B

I don't know. I am rather getting into the idea of custom designed cloths and linings. I have done it before but not as often as I would expect in some ways. It's a possibility for lots of tailors to do this if they have the inclination and paying clients.

If William was comissioning a "state of the Art" cloth (maybe a Guanashina) individually for one suit, making up a sample and flying around the price is not really inflated.

 

[mack11211]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Ultimate Bespoke.


- B

I had the Ultimate Bagel the other week.

Do you think they're related?

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by David Reeves

First off I agree with you about being a fan of Dougie. Unfortunately in the years before he died we started seeing rather bad looking suits coming out of his place. Maybe he wasn't doing the work himself.

I wouldn't chance it now especially with them going bust.
Thanks

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

I followed the advice of Dopey and took a stroll down "The Row' back in late February.

Maurice Sedwell had the look I desired. They do come to L.A. for future fittings, but at $8000 for a 4 piece suit, I passed

A four-piece suit from Caraceni currently starts at €9,000/£10,800/$13,500 (A. or Augusto/Mario Caraceni Milano), €4,500/£5,400/$6,750 (Domenico/Guilio and Tommy Caraceni Roma) and €6,750/£8,100/$10,125 (Ferdinando Caraceni Milano).

A four-piece suit from Maurice Sedwell of Savile Row actually starts at €4,500/£5,400/$6,750 (the same as H. Huntsman-who is tied with Maurice Sedwell for the most expensive tailoring firm of Savile Row).

Rubinacci Napoli's current starting prices for a four-piece suit are €4,500/£5,400/$6,750. Rubinacci Milano's current starting prices for a four-piece suit are €4,500/£5,400/$6,750 or €6,750/£8,100/$10,125 (I forget which one).

All of the prices above for the three branches of Caraceni are with handwork that matches Rubinacci Milano, Rubinacci Napoli and Maurice Sedwell (which is 50% extra cost from February or August of 2000 to January or July of 2010 but always mandatory from January or July of 2000 and prior and forever mandatory from February or August of 2010 onward).

Without the extra handwork, a four-piece suit from Caraceni currently starts at €6,000/£7,200/$9,000 (A. or Augusto/Mario Caraceni Milano), €3,000/£3,600/$4,500 (Domenico/Guilio and Tommy Caraceni Roma) and €4,500/£5,400/$6,750 (Ferdinando Caraceni Milano).

All of the prices above (all of which are exclusive of the following: the 20% value added tax for all of Europe in and outside of the United Kingdom and far too many other miscellaneous costs to mention) are with the most up to date exchange rates between the Euro and Great British Pound, Euro and United States Cent and Dollar and Great British Pound and United States Cent and Dollar.

All of the information above is from the following: articles in clothing magazines, all of the tailors above heavily marketing and promoting all of the above and experiences from other clothing forum members on the numerous clothing forums that they shared with their fellow clothing forum members.

 

[Parker]

What's the fourth piece in a 4-piece suit? extra trousers?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Parker

What's the fourth piece in a 4-piece suit? extra trousers?

Office pants.


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by David Reeves

I don't know. I am rather getting into the idea of custom designed cloths and linings. I have done it before but not as often as I would expect in some ways. It's a possibility for lots of tailors to do this if they have the inclination and paying clients.

If William was comissioning a "state of the Art" cloth (maybe a Guanashina) individually for one suit, making up a sample and flying around the price is not really inflated.

I'm unsure if there is any indication that an Ultimate Bespoke suit was ever attempted, and if attempted, actually made.

The dream of the blank check client with distinctive taste is, I am sure, shared among a wide range of artists and artisans.

Originally Posted by mack11211

I had the Ultimate Bagel the other week.

Do you think they're related?

Unlikely, except for the hole part.


- B