The best Saville Row tailors?

[gdl203]

Can anyone comment on Doug Hayward's suits now that the man is gone? I've always been a big fan of his stuff as seen in SR books and various movies, and always thought that he had excellent taste.

PS: I know the shop is not technically on SR

 

[lasbar]

The best on Savile row will depend on your tastes...
If you do like a very structured silhouette go to Dege ,Kilgour or Huntsman ,if you like some drape ,go to Anderson &Sheppard...
These advice are also caricatural because most tailors will do what you do ask them to do...
Henry Poole and Norton where i go are more likely to offer something between soft tailoring and very structured silhouette..
You do have the more fashion forward houses such as Richard james ,Boateng...
Go there ,have a look ,get inside and talk to them...

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by Manton

Joe Morgan makes the best slim suit on SR, from what I have seen. Delightful guy, too.

Tony Gaziano was wearing Chittleborough & Morgan the one time I saw him in a suit. He's pretty skinny, and he looks great in his C&M, which strikes me as a more contemporary look than the other English tailors I've seen. They're probably the non-drape tailors I'd like to try if I ever wander.

--Andre

 

[TheDarkKnight]

Originally Posted by lasbar

The best on Savile row will depend on your tastes...
If you do like a very structured silhouette go to Dege ,Kilgour or Huntsman ,if you like some drape ,go to Anderson &Sheppard...
These advice are also caricatural because most tailors will do what you do ask them to do...
Henry Poole and Norton where i go are more likely to offer something between soft tailoring and very structured silhouette..
You do have the more fashion forward houses such as Richard james ,Boateng...
Go there ,have a look ,get inside and talk to them...

This and Vox's advice sounds good, I have looked at linked threads and some of the names mentioned, and simply spending a day there looking round sounds the best idea!

I also like this post from an archived thread, by edmorel

"My suggestion, and I am one of the few here that ever suggests this, is that if either of those fits you well OTR, stick with it and simply get basic adjustments at an alterations guy. I would say that about 10-20% of the bespoke pieces that I see posted here are things that I would consider spending money on and that look obviously better than RTW. The rest look and fit just like RTW at best, and at worst look like a big waste of money. There are a lot more bad tailors out there then there are bad RTW (at the top end)."

I've found my RTW gucci with slight shortening of the sleeve and the jacket taken in looks excellent... so perhaps ill look at more high end RTW.

My one reservation with RTW is knowing the quality and durability of the cloth (though cloth type and quality is something Im just learning)

 

[Bishop of Briggs]

If you are in Durham, you should consider Tom Mahon or Ed Du Boise (Steed) in Cumbria or Des Merrion in North Lincs.

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by dopey

Vox's advice is sound. You need to walk up and down the Row to get a sense of the differences between the various house's styles and, just as importantly, their temperaments. Ideally, you are looking for a tailor whose default look is one that you like and who you think you can get along best with.

Forums like this are a good place to do some basic research, but keep in mind that Savile Row is much bigger than what is represented in online chatter. There are several very good firms that have little web presence or few customers that talk about them online. That might lead you to overlook them, which would be a mistake.

This and Vox' post are really the end of teh conversation. Having just had my first walkthrough and visit of several of the tailors on the row last week was invaluable. And if I ever can step up to Row bespoke- it'll be another couple of visits before I can make up my mind.

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Can anyone comment on Doug Hayward's suits now that the man is gone? I've always been a big fan of his stuff as seen in SR books and various movies, and always thought that he had excellent taste.

PS: I know the shop is not technically on SR

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

This and Vox' post are really the end of teh conversation. Having just had my first walkthrough and visit of several of the tailors on the row last week was invaluable. And if I ever can step up to Row bespoke- it'll be another couple of visits before I can make up my mind.

Maybe you?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by TheDarkKnight

Hi All,

I live in Durham in England so can quite easily travel to London, therefore I would like to start a wardrobe of Saville Row suits, mid priced ones ( by Saville row standards) for work wear, and modestly high end for 1 or 2 evening wear very special suits.

Within these price ranges, which in your experience are the best tailors on Saville Row?

Many Thanks

TDK

Regarding one off Row City tailor, here's Winot's old post about Graham Browne. Their website.

This is just one example of what Dopey was describing...London is still full of tailors compared to most cities. Not only are there a variety of SR or SR-ish firms that do not get discussed often online, but there are tailors who cater to City clientele.


- B

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Maybe you?
Heyward now is no different than Heyward three years ago, since he was in bad shape for a long time, and his daughter was running the shop. I don't know if that is any answer at all, but it is all I got. There is a nice store next door, however.

 

[lasbar]

The best thing is to visit them and get on Sf as many insiders tips you can collect to make the right choice...
There is somewhere a great thread with the different silhouettes and cuts available on the row ,after they're all very capable to do your suit, the rest of a question of "feeling.".
Some people love the more British (stiff upper lip) they can get ,some others like to be more relaxed when they visit their tailor (it is my case)..

 

[Michael Ay329]

I followed the advice of Dopey and took a stroll down "The Row' back in late February.

Maurice Sedwell had the look I desired. They do come to L.A. for future fittings, but at $8000 for a 4 piece suit, I passed

 

[LabelKing]

Edward Sexton and John Pearse specialize in idiosyncratic things if one so desires.

 

[crazyquik]

I have no idea what I'm talking about, and this is all hearsay, but I would at least pay a visit to Connock and Lockie (not Savile Row, but Conduit St., I think). They get little recognition on the forums, probably because they are 1) Off-Row and 2) don't travel. But I would at least be curious as to their work and suits. But maybe you aren't a tweed frock coat kind of guy

 

[RSS]

As one who travels ten hours by air to reach London -- often with no reason other than visiting Savile Row and Jermyn Street -- my first thought upon reading your post is ... Durham to London isn't that bad a journey. By train, you can be at Kings Cross in about three hours.

You really should make the trip to London and spend some time getting to know the various tailors and what the have to offer you. You could literally make a return trip in a day ... or take residence in a hotel for a night and enjoy yourself a bit more. And ... while you might want to consider taking your partner or a friend along for company ... you'll accomplish more on your own.

Of course, you say something about a preference for Italian ... are you sure you want Savile Row?

--RSS

* This is not to say I don't do more while there.

 

[unpainted huffheinz]

Originally Posted by TheDarkKnight

I've found my RTW gucci with slight shortening of the sleeve and the jacket taken in looks excellent... so perhaps ill look at more high end RTW.

My one reservation with RTW is knowing the quality and durability of the cloth (though cloth type and quality is something Im just learning)

Kilgour has a lot of RTW options you may want to check out. Gucci and the fashion designers tend to do straighter side slim cut so the Kilgour shoulders will probably be a bit wider and more structured, and the waist will be nipped more. Kilgour are the most fashion oriented house on the Row too.