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The best Saville Row tailors?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by TheDarkKnight, May 4, 2009.

  1. TheDarkKnight

    TheDarkKnight Senior member

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    Hi All,

    I live in Durham in England so can quite easily travel to London, therefore I would like to start a wardrobe of Saville Row suits, mid priced ones ( by Saville row standards) for work wear, and modestly high end for 1 or 2 evening wear very special suits.

    Within these price ranges, which in your experience are the best tailors on Saville Row?

    Many Thanks

    TDK
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    What type of overall style do you like?

    The best thing that you can do is to visit in person and build up a direct impression of which of the makers appeal to you.

    There are also a number of tailors who are off-Row but more toward the City. They make for a more London clientele, and their prices are often appreciably less than those flying the SR banner.

    - B
     
  3. newtrane

    newtrane Senior member

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    The best Savile Row tailor is Darren Beaman.
     
  4. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    You might want to learn how to spell 'Savile' first.
     
  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The best Savile Row tailor is Darren Beaman.

    QFT
     
  6. Aperipan

    Aperipan Senior member

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    I don't have any SV row experience but I think "best" really depends on what you want as a client. On construction, I've seen excellent works from all of them but for me I'd go with Boateng because he also design and therefore offers more freedom in range as to the style that best fit your needs.
     
  7. TheDarkKnight

    TheDarkKnight Senior member

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    You might want to learn how to spell 'Savile' first.

    Touche Jimmy [​IMG]

    My style is a classic Italian fitted, slim look, without being to the extreme of the current ultra slim mod look

    I have a great slim fitted suit from Gucci at the moment which is near perfect (but I'd like choice of colour and better quality cloth, but it's a good template)

    Voxsartoria I like the sound of the off row tailors too, could you post links or their names please?

    Thanks

    TDK
     
  8. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Vox's advice is sound. You need to walk up and down the Row to get a sense of the differences between the various house's styles and, just as importantly, their temperaments. Ideally, you are looking for a tailor whose default look is one that you like and who you think you can get along best with.

    Forums like this are a good place to do some basic research, but keep in mind that Savile Row is much bigger than what is represented in online chatter. There are several very good firms that have little web presence or few customers that talk about them online. That might lead you to overlook them, which would be a mistake.
     
  9. Bhowie

    Bhowie Senior member

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    I don't have any SV row experience but I think "best" really depends on what you want as a client. On construction, I've seen excellent works from all of them but for me I'd go with Boateng because he also design and therefore offers more freedom in range as to the style that best fit your needs.

    You really are the worst.
     
  10. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    The Doyen of Saville Row tailoring is Andrew Ramroop at Maurice Sedwell so to him for your special suits. In that area though off the row in Stephen Hitchcock for the others. Steven is Anderson and Shepherd trained and his father is also a cutter of renown.

    Beaman (who has been suggested merits the use of a barge pole to judge by reported experience on web boards.
     
  11. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    The Doyen of Saville Row tailoring is Andrew Ramroop at Maurice Sedwell so to him for your special suits. In that area though off the row in Stephen Hitchcock for the others. Steven is Anderson and Shepherd trained and his father is also a cutter of renown.

    Beaman (who has been suggested merits the use of a barge pole to judge by reported experience on web boards.


    You would do well to visit one or two before making up your mind.
     
  12. Aperipan

    Aperipan Senior member

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    You really are the worst.

    worst what? What did I say that offend you so?
     
  13. ohm

    ohm Senior member

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    Touche Jimmy [​IMG]

    My style is a classic Italian fitted, slim look, without being to the extreme of the current ultra slim mod look

    I have a great slim fitted suit from Gucci at the moment which is near perfect (but I'd like choice of colour and better quality cloth, but it's a good template)

    Voxsartoria I like the sound of the off row tailors too, could you post links or their names please?

    Thanks

    TDK


    Use the search function. This board has lots of the information you are looking for. For example, http://www.styleforum.net/archive/in...p/t-47956.html Otherwise, vox's advice is good. Go there and talk to them.
     
  14. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Joe Morgan makes the best slim suit on SR, from what I have seen. Delightful guy, too.
     
  15. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    Something like Kilgour or Dege & Skinner have a nice structured slim look.

    If you're after italian however, why not go Rubinacci?
     
  16. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Can anyone comment on Doug Hayward's suits now that the man is gone? I've always been a big fan of his stuff as seen in SR books and various movies, and always thought that he had excellent taste.

    PS: I know the shop is not technically on SR
     
  17. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    The best on Savile row will depend on your tastes...
    If you do like a very structured silhouette go to Dege ,Kilgour or Huntsman ,if you like some drape ,go to Anderson &Sheppard...
    These advice are also caricatural because most tailors will do what you do ask them to do...
    Henry Poole and Norton where i go are more likely to offer something between soft tailoring and very structured silhouette..
    You do have the more fashion forward houses such as Richard james ,Boateng...
    Go there ,have a look ,get inside and talk to them...
     
  18. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Joe Morgan makes the best slim suit on SR, from what I have seen. Delightful guy, too.

    Tony Gaziano was wearing Chittleborough & Morgan the one time I saw him in a suit. He's pretty skinny, and he looks great in his C&M, which strikes me as a more contemporary look than the other English tailors I've seen. They're probably the non-drape tailors I'd like to try if I ever wander.

    --Andre
     
  19. TheDarkKnight

    TheDarkKnight Senior member

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    The best on Savile row will depend on your tastes...
    If you do like a very structured silhouette go to Dege ,Kilgour or Huntsman ,if you like some drape ,go to Anderson &Sheppard...
    These advice are also caricatural because most tailors will do what you do ask them to do...
    Henry Poole and Norton where i go are more likely to offer something between soft tailoring and very structured silhouette..
    You do have the more fashion forward houses such as Richard james ,Boateng...
    Go there ,have a look ,get inside and talk to them...


    This and Vox's advice sounds good, I have looked at linked threads and some of the names mentioned, and simply spending a day there looking round sounds the best idea!

    I also like this post from an archived thread, by edmorel

    "My suggestion, and I am one of the few here that ever suggests this, is that if either of those fits you well OTR, stick with it and simply get basic adjustments at an alterations guy. I would say that about 10-20% of the bespoke pieces that I see posted here are things that I would consider spending money on and that look obviously better than RTW. The rest look and fit just like RTW at best, and at worst look like a big waste of money. There are a lot more bad tailors out there then there are bad RTW (at the top end)."

    I've found my RTW gucci with slight shortening of the sleeve and the jacket taken in looks excellent... so perhaps ill look at more high end RTW.

    My one reservation with RTW is knowing the quality and durability of the cloth (though cloth type and quality is something Im just learning)
     
  20. Bishop of Briggs

    Bishop of Briggs Senior member

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    If you are in Durham, you should consider Tom Mahon or Ed Du Boise (Steed) in Cumbria or Des Merrion in North Lincs.
     

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