The best Oxford shirt

[kid1002]

Hi guys, following up here. I’m quite short , 5”7 with a regular build and looking for a good Oxford that I can wear that doesn’t feel like a dress untucked haha.

I’ve seen Kamakura mentioned, have any fellow shorter guys liked the fit there? Any other recommendations ?

I am 174cm and can wear the Kamakura 38-82 size OCBD (SPORTS fit) untucked comfortably.

 

[goonerble]

I am 174cm and can wear the Kamakura 38-82 size OCBD (SPORTS fit) untucked comfortably.

Thanks! Which line though please?
Ie Tokyo classic, Tokyo slim, New York etc!

 

[JimStarr]

I would recommend Drake’s. Expensive, yes, but the fabric, collar and quality are solid. Kamakura has been recommended above, but compared point by point, the Drake’s OCBD simply blows it away. The collar is better than Kamakura’s flimsy one, the fabric is a much more robust oxford-weave and Kamakura’s small, yellow river shell buttons can not hold a candle to Drake’s beautiful MOP buttons. Granted, the Drake’s one costs twice as much. It can be had on the Archive sales for close to the msrp of the Kamakura, though.

I loved Old Navy's OCBD from about 10 years ago. Great cloth with a pocket. They were perfect. Then they stopped carrying them and I can't find any like them that are navy blue color. I don't like the light colors too much.

 

[OCBD365]

I recently picked up two Drakes oxfords and I’m finding the shoulders to be uncomfortably narrow. They sit at least half inch higher up my shoulder on each side compared to Borrelli, JPress, or Brooks.

I wanted to like them — the hand on the fabric is soft and incredible and the collar is lovely. The body and sleeves were a nice cut —not too slim not too billowy. Unfortunately, the shoulders are cramped and uncomfortable and with a jacket off, I look like I’m wearing a much too slim shirt from 2010. I’m 6ft ~160 so not a large frame either. Don’t know how you all fit into these.

if there was something in the ~200 range with the hand and collar of drakes with wider shoulders I’d be all over it.

You can do MTO remotely and add width to the yoke. I think they're $100 more though. They'll give you a free white OCBD or Poplin for ever three shirts ordered also I believe.

 

[Club Soda]

Drake's easyday shirts come without a locker loop in the back and also lack the gusset. They are a little bit shorter in the body too. If I am not mistaken, the Easyday line was designed with "younger" customers in mind, who might want to wear their shirts untucked.

I'm glad they ditched the easy day stuff; the ties were more narrow too.

 

[TimothyF]

Has anyone bought the "Ametora" line from Kamakura? Seems like more Mercer & Sons originalist than the Vintage Ivy: 6 button front, longer collars, fuller cut, unlined, more luxury fabrics. Curious to have your thoughts and experience

Ametora - Button Down Oxford

Ametora Button-Down Oxford ShirtAmetora is Japanese slang for “American traditional” — the East Coast collegiate style that forged the Japanese menswear industry in the 1960s. Our Ametora oxford cloth button-down in white or saxe blue offers an authentic recreation of the dress shirts commonly...

kamakurashirts.com

AMETORA-Bengal Stripe Broadcloth

Ametora Button-Down Bengal Stripe BroadclothAmetora is Japanese slang for “American traditional” — the East Coast collegiate style that forged the Japanese menswear industry in the 1960s. Our Ametora offers an authentic recreation of the dress shirts commonly seen on Madison Avenue in the 1950s...

kamakurashirts.com

 

[Ddubs]

I'm looking to buy an 'essential' set of OCBDs, so probably white, blue, blue & pink stripe and maybe solid pink. Right now I think I'm most drawn to the PS oxfords, Drake's, Kamakura and maybe vintage Brooks Brother's and Gitman. The only thing is though I think I'm leaning towards an oxford without a chest pocket which only PS offer on that list. I was wondering what people's persepctives are on chest pockets on OCBDs and what would people most recommend from the options I have listed?

 

[vikke977]

I'm looking to buy an 'essential' set of OCBDs, so probably white, blue, blue & pink stripe and maybe solid pink. Right now I think I'm most drawn to the PS oxfords, Drake's, Kamakura and maybe vintage Brooks Brother's and Gitman. The only thing is though I think I'm leaning towards an oxford without a chest pocket which only PS offer on that list. I was wondering what people's persepctives are on chest pockets on OCBDs and what would people most recommend from the options I have listed?

PS has a nice fabric, but there is nothing traditional about the shirt beyond that: no chest pocket – which, according to me, is very much one of the details that make a OCBD – no box pleat, shirring on the sleeves, which, while nice on an Italian shirt, for example, does not belong on a OCBD.

Drake’s one is really good, so if it fits you, you can’t go wrong with that. Kamakura is decent enough but Drake’s does everything at least a little bit better (can’t comment on Kamakuras new model, the Ametora, which is supposed to be truly traditional). Gitman appears to be a bit on the expensive side for what it is, but can’t comment beyond that. I have nothing to say about vintage Brooks Bros.

If you decide that you will forgo the pocket, have a shirtmaker available to you, and are willing to pay, PS sells their oxford cloths by the meter. Drake’s RTW is probably more than enough, though – it’s only a shirt after all.

Another good makers is Mercer & Sons; some say they are last remaining maker of real OCBDs.

 

[Shirtmaven]

I'm looking to buy an 'essential' set of OCBDs, so probably white, blue, blue & pink stripe and maybe solid pink. Right now I think I'm most drawn to the PS oxfords, Drake's, Kamakura and maybe vintage Brooks Brother's and Gitman. The only thing is though I think I'm leaning towards an oxford without a chest pocket which only PS offer on that list. I was wondering what people's persepctives are on chest pockets on OCBDs and what would people most recommend from the options I have listed?

It is not hard to remove a chest pocket with a seam ripper

 

[Shirtmaven]

PS has a nice fabric, but there is nothing traditional about the shirt beyond that: no chest pocket – which, according to me, is very much one of the details that make a OCBD – no box pleat, shirring on the sleeves, which, while nice on an Italian shirt, for example, does not belong on a OCBD.

Drake’s one is really good, so if it fits you, you can’t go wrong with that. Kamakura is decent enough but Drake’s does everything at least a little bit better (can’t comment on Kamakuras new model, the Ametora, which is supposed to be truly traditional). Gitman appears to be a bit on the expensive side for what it is, but can’t comment beyond that. I have nothing to say about vintage Brooks Bros.

If you decide that you will forgo the pocket, have a shirtmaker available to you, and are willing to pay, PS sells their oxford cloths by the meter. Drake’s RTW is probably more than enough, though – it’s only a shirt after all.

Another good makers is Mercer & Sons; some say they are last remaining maker of real OCBDs.

The PS oxford cloth is nothing special.
The Chinese oxford I "sometimes" use has more traditional construction

 

[vikke977]

The PS oxford cloth is nothing special.
The Chinese oxford I "sometimes" use has more traditional construction

I stand corrected. Do you have anything to say about Mercer’s fabric/shirt in general? The fabric is supposed to be ”bulletproof”– that may or may not make it authentic. They strike me as really good and I have never heard a bad word about them if not counting the huge fit as a negative.

It is not hard to remove a chest pocket with a seam ripper

Never even though of this haha, even though I have removed some unwanted darts and buttons with a seam ripper. This gives OP more choices.

 

[Ddubs]

The PS oxford cloth is nothing special.
The Chinese oxford I "sometimes" use has more traditional construction

I am somewhat new to classic menswear and thus shirting, so just out of interest how so is the PS oxford cloth nothing special and why does traditional construction tend to be favoured, at least from what I have seen around here?

 

[Shirtmaven]

I stand corrected. Do you have anything to say about Mercer’s fabric/shirt in general? The fabric is supposed to be ”bulletproof”– that may or may not make it authentic. They strike me as really good and I have never heard a bad word about them if not counting the huge fit as a negative.

Never even though of this haha, even though I have removed some unwanted darts and buttons with a seam ripper. This gives OP more choices.

Mercer is using the same Chinese woven oxford that I occasionally use.
It is known as "Cambridge "oxford by some old timers in the USA shirtmaking industry.
Threadtex was the company that supplied Japanese woven shirt fabric to the trade in the 1970s-early 2000s before China took over.
Look for labels that say TTX on vintage American made shirts.

 

[BfordSingh]

I’m 5’6 and a little under 130lbs, so I’m a small dude. I wear an OCBD basically every day under 85 degrees, since I work from home and have a toddler - they’re the perfect combination of looking sharp but casual, and incredibly easy care. Most of the time, they’re untucked.

I wear Spier & MacKay most of the time. They’re incredibly comfortable and cheap. Most of mine are the Extra Slim fit, but I also like the Slim fit. They have a ton of fits and don’t do alpha sizing, which I love. I wear 14.5 or 15 X 33.

They also have high arm holes, which makes all the difference for range of motion.

The regular oxford is great, but it’s missing the box pleat and locker loop. While I couldn’t care less about the latter, I appreciate pleats for movement. Their Ivy Oxford features them and absolutely rules.

On the other end of the spectrum, I absolutely love Thom Browne oxfords. I haven’t bought any in years, but they used to be the best. Very slim fitting, very high arm holes, great fabric, and a beautiful collar. They’re a little long for shorter dudes, so maybe not the best for untucked.

I have a few Gitman Vintage and, I’ll be honest, I’m not really a fan. The cloth and collar are nice, but the sizing is weird and inconsistent (I’m a small), and the arm holes are cut low. If I do tuck one in, I can’t lift my arms very high without pulling out the tails.

I have an old Uniqlo Oxford that’s pretty short and I love. I wore these for many years.

I have others (Visvim, Norse Projects, J Crew, Madewell), but none are at the level of these others.

Edit: tagging @goonerable

 

[Ddubs]

That is good to hear @BfordSingh and also something I didn't mention. I am the same height as you, 5'6, so will look into their offerings. On the same note, I was wondering if anyone else can recommend OCBDs suitable for shorter guys and if any of the brands I previously mentioned would work?