The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[Texasmade]

Kirby Allison dropped a new video on YouTube going over his shoe collection. Good overview of his bespoke shoes. He mentioned in the comment section that his G&G shoes with Daniel when he was still with them aware abandoned when Daniel left. Kirby is going to commission with Tony once travel opens back up.

 

[bengal-stripe]

I don't even know if you buy woven leather as a material or does the marker do the weave?

Yes, woven leather by the metre gets offered by by several Italian tanneries. Maftei shouldn't have any problems sourcing it. Kolde Leder (leather merchant) in Vienna stocks it in a width of 60 cm in a various colours (maybe also different weaves/designs, but I don't know that). But I'm sure, there will be other suppliers.

One thing you should consider: shoes from woven leather might not be as light as you hope. If you have ever had a woven belt, you'll know they do stretch to kingdom come. The same thing will apply for shoes, I would imagine they will lose their shape pretty quickly unless they get stabilised. You will need a liner and this one might have to be glued all over to the woven leather to act as a backer. Wider strips will be more stable than narrow ones.

 

[dieworkwear]

Now that he has managed to make a loafer last that works for my foot, I think I want a woven loafer. Anybody have any they particularly like the style of to give me some ideas?

Personally don't like the very "classic" versions, such as the stuff you see from AE. I feel like, when worn with classic clothes -- chinos, sport coats, etc -- it just ends up looking a bit dated in a bad way.

These below can be OK, but I think they only go well with very specific outfits, and getting them bespoke seems like an expensive proposition for such a limited shoe.

Personally, if I were to get a pair of woven loafers, I'd just get raffia loafers or something. Can be worn with shorts, chinos, or linen pants. Long-sleeved knit top or a vacation-style shirt.

 

[marlinspike]

I'm thinking the coarseness is the second one you posted but a solid strap and a solid heel.
And bespoke is the only thing I can wear.

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm thinking the coarseness is the second one you posted but a solid strap and a solid heel.
And bespoke is the only thing I can wear.

You mean like this?

Personally not into that look. I think it's a bit too Ben Silver/ AAAC for me.

 

[marlinspike]

You mean like this?


Personally not into that look. I think it's a bit too Ben Silver/ AAAC for me.

Hmm I did mean like that but now I'm rethinking.

 

[marlinspike]

Maybe the same idea, but a much much wider weave, like 4 strips for the entire top of the toebox wide

 

[dieworkwear]

Hmm I did mean like that but now I'm rethinking.

Maybe the same idea, but a much much wider weave, like 4 strips for the entire top of the toebox wide

Hm, it's hard for me to imagine that design. Four strips for the top sounds like it would look odd.

I suppose this gets into one of the problems with bespoke shoes. I often find myself getting versions of things I often wear in ready-to-wear because I know I will like it. If I make modifications, they are very small.

I suppose, for almost any sort of classic tailored outfit where one can imagine wearing a woven loafer, I would just opt for a classic loafer (penny or tassel). It's just something I'm familiar with and can see how that design will fit into a wardrobe. So something like EG's Picadilly, for example, which I find goes really well with tailored trousers and sport coats.

 

[dieworkwear]

 

[marlinspike]

I suppose, for almost any sort of classic tailored outfit where one can imagine wearing a woven loafer, I would just opt for a classic loafer (penny or tassel). It's just something I'm familiar with and can see how that design will fit into a wardrobe. So something like EG's Picadilly, for example, which I find goes really well with tailored trousers and sport coats.

It's like you don't even want to be Don Johnson.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

New in! Bespoke austerity brogues by Catella Shoemaker, the brand of bespoke shoemaker Daniel Wegan, previously head of the bespoke department at Gaziano & Girling and world champion in shoemaking in 2019. They are made in a medium brown patina on a last with a soft square toe, with a single leather sole and a slim bevelled waist, 14 spi (stitches per inch) sole stitch, etc. A bunch of photos below, much much more pics and info on them in this article on the blog.

 

[clee1982]

Looks great

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

New in! Bespoke austerity brogues by Catella Shoemaker, the brand of bespoke shoemaker Daniel Wegan, previously head of the bespoke department at Gaziano & Girling and world champion in shoemaking in 2019. They are made in a medium brown patina on a last with a soft square toe, with a single leather sole and a slim bevelled waist, 14 spi (stitches per inch) sole stitch, etc. A bunch of photos below, much much more pics and info on them in this article on the blog.

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Beautiful finishing on these. What I enjoy even more is NOT seeing a fiddleback on these beautiful shoes.
???

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

@j ingevaldsson
I'm probably biasedly thinking this but Eiji Murata's last shape seems to fit your feet more appropriately. Fit in terms of stylistically and proportionally versus comfort levels.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Looks great

Cheers!

Beautiful finishing on these. What I enjoy even more is NOT seeing a fiddleback on these beautiful shoes.
???

@j ingevaldsson
I'm probably biasedly thinking this but Eiji Murata's last shape seems to fit your feet more appropriately. Fit in terms of stylistically and proportionally versus comfort levels.

Yeah, sometimes that's the best, a quite moderate bevelled waist.

You are probably right in that regard, however I do love a good chiseled toe last so will likely continue to have makers try to fit my feet into them ?