The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[ntempleman]

What kind of repair is it that would warrant such a stitching in the insole? I'm no maker and have no idea but why would they stitch through the insole like that when resoling/repairing? What is the purpose of the stitching going through the insole?

My only guess is that whoever did repair work on these either couldn’t do, didn’t want to, or just didn’t know anything about bevelled waists and so stitched the sole straight through

 

[Boggis]

When getting your soles replaced on hand welted shoes, are you best sending them back to the original maker (if possible) or do you need to source a reputable cobbler?
I'm thinking in terms of ordering shoes from a shoemaker on the other side of the world, do you end up with customs charges shipping expensive shoes across borders?

 

[bengal-stripe]

When getting your soles replaced on hand welted shoes, are you best sending them back to the original maker (if possible) or do you need to source a reputable cobbler?

It will always be better to send a pair of bespoke shoes back to the original workshop for refurbishment. After all, only they will have access to the original last. Be warned, it will cost a pretty penny.
If the company is no longer trading you might have to find someone yourself who is able to do the repair. There might be a difference what they say they can do and what they're actually capable of.

I'm thinking in terms of ordering shoes from a shoemaker on the other side of the world, do you end up with customs charges shipping expensive shoes across borders?

Shoes are merchandise like anything else and in accordance with the regulations of your country you might have to pay the appropriate taxes and charges when importing merchandise from a different country.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

When getting your soles replaced on hand welted shoes, are you best sending them back to the original maker (if possible) or do you need to source a reputable cobbler?
I'm thinking in terms of ordering shoes from a shoemaker on the other side of the world, do you end up with customs charges shipping expensive shoes across borders?

I would always send the shoes back to the maker, especially if it's bespoke shoes. They are the ones who can restore them to how they originally looked, and if you've chosen that brand once it would likely be that way you prefer them to look as well.

If you only change the sole and heel and not need to replace the welt, a skilled cobbler could at least theoretically do just an as good job though. If welt needs to be replaced, access to the original last is needed for a good result, so then you don't have to send them back to the maker.

You ship shoes back as repairs, so you will not need to pay any customs etc that has anything to do with the price you bought the shoes for. You just need to fill in the documents properly. Should always have access to your original import documents though so you can prove that you've already imported the product. If you pay for the repair, which you would for a resole, you should pay customs and potential VAT on the repair sum when they are sent back to you.

 

[ntempleman]

In the content description clearly state “returned to maker in country of origin for repair, no commercial value”. When I travelled for a company it was normal to collect multiple shoes for resole and repair, far more than able to fit in luggage. Had to buy a big cardboard box, fill it with a dozen pairs and trot down to USPS, never had an issue with customs charges

 

[Boggis]

You just need to fill in the documents properly. Should always have access to your original import documents though so you can prove that you've already imported the product.

I guess that assumes you've imported them correctly and didn't just walk down the "nothing to declare" channel wearing your new bespoke shoes!

 

[j ingevaldsson]

I guess that assumes you've imported them correctly and didn't just walk down the "nothing to declare" channel wearing your new bespoke shoes!

Obviously. I'm a decorous boy..

 

[dieworkwear]

Send Blake-stitched shoes to a bespoke maker for a handwelted resoling, so you can get the reverse of those GCs

 

[thesartorialistbanker]

My new pair from Yohei Fukuda

 

[Texasmade]

My new pair from Yohei Fukuda

View attachment 1545068

I saw these posted on various instagram accounts. I was thinking this probably belonged to a SF member.

 

[thesartorialistbanker]

Yes. They are mine and to be sure they have my full initials "PSB" pegged with brass nails on the soles

 

[thesartorialistbanker]

 

[thesartorialistbanker]

 

[thesartorialistbanker]

 

[shackletonian]

Just my own little update. I replied to GJC and returned the shoes, requesting a refund, and they obliged! Just kidding. I returned the shoes and insisted on a refund because I no longer had confidence in their ability to make promised adjustments in a reasonable manner as well as sending the alligator shoe with the leather in such bad shape.GGJR replied that they are confused because all my other emails to them had been pleasant and proceeded to copy-paste my previous emails of appreciation for the process up to that point.

We have gone back and forth a few times, GJC insisting on remaking without remeasuring or explaining where they will get new leather for the alligator. I've been insisting on a refund. The recent emails have turned a bit more sour. I mentioned that the process has gone on for about 2 years, and GGJR wanted to correct it to the exact month (still just under 2 years). I proceeded to ask whether they would have allowed shoes in such condition to go out to clients such as Statham and Stallone. I'm still waiting for a response. I also received feedback from a variety of other makers and cobblers about the shoes and was sure to mention that to GGJR, all of them shocked at the state and condition of the shoes. GGJR stated that these were custom shoes and not simply something that could be returned. I explained that I have purchased many other bespoke products in my life and never had any as problematic as these.

I'll be honest, I'm going to keep insisting on a refund. I have no confidence in them or that they will do much more than the minimum to try to get me to be satisfied and off their backs. The shoes cost about $13,000 in total. Had I not already started a process with another bespoke maker, this would have been enough to turn me off the experience completely.

When there's resolution, I'll be sure to flag it here.