The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[Manuel]

Finally making some progress.... or maybe not?

Of course, after reading a lot I have decided to start using cardboard and fabric and save money and work although this insole is leather......... so GYW is a good option ...........the best option.......... ( I'm joking)

There are many things that I don't understand about you, you always end up with the same conversation, comparing two systems HW and GYW.

There is another much more important thing and it is customer satisfaction, the system is the least of it, in fact, I think you limit it to GYW or HW. Outside of these systems there is nothing else and that is not true.
This gives me a lot to think about.

 

[Manuel]

All right, quiet, everybody!
I changed my mind again......I go back to the old system.....
Ahahahahah....... by de way, I'd like to get an insole channel knife.....where can I get one? I only have my blade.....

Take care my good friends....When I finished them I'II upload them.

 

[bjhofkin]

What is that leather?

All right, quiet, everybody!
I changed my mind again......I go back to the old system.....
Ahahahahah....... by de way, I'd like to get an insole channel knife.....where can I get one? I only have my blade.....

View attachment 1482302
View attachment 1482300 View attachment 1482303 View attachment 1482304 View attachment 1482301 View attachment 1482298 View attachment 1482306 View attachment 1482299 View attachment 1482305
Take care my good friends....When I finished them I'II upload them.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I notice some shoemakers carve out leather to create the "feather". Do any shoemakers compress leather to make the feather rather than remove leather? I would think the latter is "better". Thoughts from the makers?

 

[Manuel]

What is that leather?

These leathers are greased calfskin, they do not admit any type of glue, so everything must be sewn by hand.

They are very expensive leathers and are used for oiled boots because it is used on the hair part.

Some photos are old and..... I think I uploaded some here

They are excellent leathers for field shoes and boots or to wear with jeans.
Depending on its tanning, you can use it from behind or from the front.
You can see some examples ...
They are not cleaned with creams or liquids, only animal fat is applied, especially horse fat and they are nourished ...

In the last footgraph you can see a mold, when I make those boots I will upload them and you will see how they are.
There is a very important thing, the factories do not even want to see these leathers because they cannot work them ahahahahah except those of country and flamenco boots with their GYW system

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Daniel Wegan had his first trunk show with his new own brand Catella Shoemaker on home turf in Sweden this Wednesday, in the city of Gothenburg where I live. Here's a bunch of pics of the new samples, which hasn't really been shown that much yet (more in this article, too many to squeeze in here).

The three first Catella samples:

Second placed shoe world champs 2018 to the left, winning shoe 2019 to the right:

The adelaide in mottled mid brown:

14 spi, neatly done:

Natural sole finish, slim fiddle back waist:

Black plain cap toe oxford, very British styled:

Clean heel:

Bottom:

French flair:

Beautiful last shape:

Sole:

 

[Cheshire symposium]

Daniel Wegan had his first trunk show with his new own brand Catella Shoemaker on home turf in Sweden this Wednesday, in the city of Gothenburg where I live. Here's a bunch of pics of the new samples, which hasn't really been shown that much yet (more in this article, too many to squeeze in here).

The three first Catella samples:
View attachment 1483120

Second placed shoe world champs 2018 to the left, winning shoe 2019 to the right:
View attachment 1483121

The adelaide in mottled mid brown:
View attachment 1483122

14 spi, neatly done:
View attachment 1483123

Natural sole finish, slim fiddle back waist:
View attachment 1483125

Black plain cap toe oxford, very British styled:
View attachment 1483126

Clean heel:
View attachment 1483128

Bottom:
View attachment 1483130

French flair:
View attachment 1483131

Beautiful last shape:
View attachment 1483132

Sole:
View attachment 1483133

Did he provide details on pricing?

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Did he provide details on pricing?

Yes, you have all that info in the first article I wrote when the brand launched (also linked to in the latest article on the blog). Price starts at £3,600 excl. VAT, plus £500 for first pair when the last is to be made.

 

[DWFII]

I notice some shoemakers carve out leather to create the "feather". Do any shoemakers compress leather to make the feather rather than remove leather? I would think the latter is "better". Thoughts from the makers?

Well, historically that was one technique...maybe even a forerunner of the carved feather. Goes back to probably the 18th century.

But any leather that is compressed can...and will 'uncompress' with flexing. And that would mitigate against a tight or even stable inseam, I suspect.

 

[Concordia]

Daniel Wegan had his first trunk show with his new own brand Catella Shoemaker on home turf in Sweden this Wednesday, in the city of Gothenburg where I live. Here's a bunch of pics of the new samples, which hasn't really been shown that much yet (more in this article, too many to squeeze in here).

The three first Catella samples:
View attachment 1483120

Second placed shoe world champs 2018 to the left, winning shoe 2019 to the right:
View attachment 1483121

The adelaide in mottled mid brown:
View attachment 1483122

14 spi, neatly done:
View attachment 1483123

Natural sole finish, slim fiddle back waist:
View attachment 1483125

Black plain cap toe oxford, very British styled:
View attachment 1483126

Clean heel:
View attachment 1483128

Bottom:
View attachment 1483130

French flair:
View attachment 1483131

Beautiful last shape:
View attachment 1483132

Sole:
View attachment 1483133

Is Sweden this guy's home turf, or London?

 

[dauster]

Is Sweden this guy's home turf, or London?

well he is swedish, so I guess sweden is his home turf. G&G was just based in London where he used to work.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Is Sweden this guy's home turf, or London?

well he is swedish, so I guess sweden is his home turf. G&G was just based in London where he used to work.

He is Swedish and grew up in Stockholm, but lives in Kettering, Northamptonshire, since 11 years.

 

[willyto]

Around 40 minutes of Last conversation with Lee Miller. He talks about a last trap and shows how it works, toe spring is also mentioned and leather treatment (Wetting) before lasting.

 

[eaeden]

Who "didn't have to work as much in the past"? I suspect that whoever they are/were, if they were average, non-salaried blokes they worked harder and longer hours.

People tend to see everything as a luxury good these days. What's the cost of a loaf of whole wheat bread in the Bay area?

IIRC, a 1lb. loaf of bread would have cost 10¢, in 1920 ..And with averages hourly wages at 20¢ hr (if that figure is correct).....That's significant disparity between bread prices now and hourly wages (even at $26.00 per hour) and bread / hourly wages in 1920.

Working half an hour to earn your bread (1920) is a far cry from 12 loaves an hour (2020)

I don't know what that means as it pertains to our discussion...(doing math literally gives me a headache) but it must mean something.

Who "didn't have to work as much in the past"? I suspect that whoever they are/were, if they were average, non-salaried blokes they worked harder and longer hours.

People tend to see everything as a luxury good these days. What's the cost of a loaf of whole wheat bread in the Bay area?

IIRC, a 1lb. loaf of bread would have cost 10¢, in 1920 ..And with averages hourly wages at 20¢ hr (if that figure is correct).....That's significant disparity between bread prices now and hourly wages (even at $26.00 per hour) and bread / hourly wages in 1920.

Working half an hour to earn your bread (1920) is a far cry from 12 loaves an hour (2020)

I don't know what that means as it pertains to our discussion...(doing math literally gives me a headache) but it must mean something.

On an absolute basis, people’s quality of life has improved in US (and many other places). Many people can, for instance, access the vast majority of the worlds knowledge instantly, from a computer in their pocket. Bread is way cheaper. It’s harder to starve. However economics are inherently relative, which is the problem. As the returns to assets have massively outpaced the returns to labor— big Political assist from a culture that has increasingly equated anti-collective-action policy with ethical policy (see CIA + covert wars in south western hemisphere and GOP assault on voting rights... Literally today with our new Supreme Court justice) — through the second half of the twentieth century, things like homeownership have become increasingly difficult to access, while bread and circus have become easier— disposable stuff that one doesn’t accumulate has gotten cheap, the government has subsidized the inflation of assets one does collect, and then asset holders have waged a multi front war on the levers of power available to workers. As warren buffet explained, there was a class war, and his class won. Insidiously, this cycle then has reinforced itself. Assets up, work down, reinvest in driving assets up.

So your bread is cheap, you can’t afford a house (or, more important, even if you buy the house you can’t save enough for retirement, so you end up with a reverse mortgage... and thus your kids don’t inherit and build on the wealtH( https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.cn...ealth-costs-and-unrealistic-expectations.html ), and the stress on the political system...born of an increasingly large underclass in which most of us belong, as much as we wish we didn’t, or will belong, as the hurdle to membership grows taller... grows... driving partisanship, rage, violence, xenophobia, etc. as this happens, growth drops, the pie shrinks, and asset owners fight each other with increasing intensity — in proxy wars, at first, which hurt people poorer than they are the most...

maybe read up on the social war at the end of the Roman republic. Then read early work by Daron acemoglu.

But FIRST— VOTE VOTE VOTE. Vote Love. Vote collective action. Relative advantage is an economic superpower. Equitably shared growth drives more growth. “What’s mine is mine” shrinks growth, shrinks the pie, and increases discord... which further shrinks the pie. Helping each other IS smart growth policy. Greed is a facile excuse for jerks to steal.

 

[eaeden]

Or, more simply-

vote for the principles your grandmother taught you. That will allow you to feel good about your treatment of others and buy more expensive shoes.

if you vote for what Gordon gekko taught you, many fewer of you will buy nice shoes— more shoemakers will go out of business— and fewer still will get nice shoes

As someone has tweeted many times: SAD!