The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[dauster]

He also suggests that if you don't know better how to evaluate technical aspects of shoes that you should "trust the brand" and buy cleverlys.

but then you need beautiful friends and wife (s) sorry could not resist

 

[lexxdeleon]

Speaking of Chinese bespoke, has anyone tried the Chinese bespoke on this thread?

I know there are a ton of handwelt RTW option coming out from China these days, some bespoke as well, though the only guy who probably had experience in all of them is @ThunderMarch who doesn't post here anymore (and he probably just had a ton of bespoke in general, though seems like he has a lot more Italian/Japanese/Chinese than English).

I've placed an order with Lu Yang - https://www.instagram.com/bespoke_shoemaker_luyang/?hl=en

He's just starting on my last, but I can post updates here. It's all being done remote (so I'm not sure if most would consider it bespoke) and he works with a translator who has been excellent so far.

My only other shoe experience with bespoke is Mannina in Florence, the fitting was done in person, but I couldn't return for a second, so the shoes were shipped directly to me once completed.

 

[clee1982]

Well, I personally wouldn’t do remote bespoke, let us know how it turns out (especially the fit)

 

[dauster]

I've placed an order with Lu Yang - https://www.instagram.com/bespoke_shoemaker_luyang/?hl=en

He's just starting on my last, but I can post updates here. It's all being done remote (so I'm not sure if most would consider it bespoke) and he works with a translator who has been excellent so far.

My only other shoe experience with bespoke is Mannina in Florence, the fitting was done in person, but I couldn't return for a second, so the shoes were shipped directly to me once completed.

how did he measure your foot, or did he measure it and now everything else will be done remote? how much are you paying for this experience ? seems rather counter-intuitive.

 

[lexxdeleon]

Well, I personally wouldn’t do remote bespoke, let us know how it turns out (especially the fit)

I can understand that sentiment, remote "bespoke" is far more risky and simply won't be the same experience working directly with the maker.

how did he measure your foot, or did he measure it and now everything else will be done remote? how much are you paying for this experience ? seems rather counter-intuitive.

Instructions were provided on how to take measurements which my fiancee and I followed to the best of our abilities. We provided photos of the tape measure position and measurement value for all the requested info.

Lu Yang typically provides 1-2 trial shoes depending on how the first trial shoe fits. I wouldn't try a remote service unless trial shoes were offered as I don't fit well into RTW which is my main reason for going custom.

It was about $875 at the time, though I know he has increased prices recently.

If I had the means to go the traditional/true bespoke route I would, that's still something I want to do in the future.

 

[bjhofkin]

Not true bespoke, but for those of you also interested in workwear-style boots, this guy is absolutely legit:



I just got those the other day and they're every bit as fantastic in person as in the photos.

Hand-welted and hand-sewn sole stitching.

Obviously a TOTALLY different aesthetic (classic-fit raw denim and a flight jacket are the way to go), and not quite the same level of make/finish as true West End–style bespoke – but also a very different price point.

So I can say from experience that some seriously quality custom footwear is indeed coming out of China.

 

[dieworkwear]

Not true bespoke, but for those of you also interested in workwear-style boots, this guy is absolutely legit:



I just got those the other day and they're every bit as fantastic in person as in the photos.

Hand-welted and hand-sewn sole stitching.

Obviously a TOTALLY different aesthetic (classic-fit raw denim and a flight jacket are the way to go), and not quite the same level of make/finish as true West End–style bespoke – but also a very different price point.

So I can say from experience that some seriously quality custom footwear is indeed coming out of China.

Those look great.

I'm sure the work can be quite good, but the stuff that I see that's a red shoe with a purple sole, aggressive fiddleback waist, dandy shoe stuff just isn't for me. As someone said, it's bespoke so perhaps you can get what you want. But seeing that type of stuff doesn't inspire me to order, no matter how good the work.

 

[dauster]

I can understand that sentiment, remote "bespoke" is far more risky and simply won't be the same experience working directly with the maker.



Instructions were provided on how to take measurements which my fiancee and I followed to the best of our abilities. We provided photos of the tape measure position and measurement value for all the requested info.

Lu Yang typically provides 1-2 trial shoes depending on how the first trial shoe fits. I wouldn't try a remote service unless trial shoes were offered as I don't fit well into RTW which is my main reason for going custom.

It was about $875 at the time, though I know he has increased prices recently.

If I had the means to go the traditional/true bespoke route I would, that's still something I want to do in the future.

got it, $875 is super competitive - worth a try and pics look great too. good luck with the process.

 

[bjhofkin]

Thank you! Again, perfect with, say, these, this, and this.

Agreed on the stylistic points Re the photos from the last few pages (not that my opinion matters).

Also, at the risk of stating the obvious it's entirely possible that Flame Panda (Peng) is making great workwear-inspired boots and that that means NOTHING for Chinese bespoke/custom shoemaking in general.

The country has almost a billion and a half people after all.

Those look great.

I'm sure the work can be quite good, but the stuff that I see that's a red shoe with a purple sole, aggressive fiddleback waist, dandy shoe stuff just isn't for me. As someone said, it's bespoke so perhaps you can get what you want. But seeing that type of stuff doesn't inspire me to order, no matter how good the work.

 

[ecwy]

well, I don't want to send in my qualifying photos...

For what I like, if I want to pay up (vs. Chinese bespoke) might as well go Japanese (YK), would think I can at least trust that.

Ok a serious reply for you. If you really want to know more about Chinese makers, just ping TM on Instagram. He will not visit this forum even though he was the one that pinged me about getting dragged into this nonsense despite quitting 2 years ago.

Secondly, not all his orders are bespoke. He has a fairly standard UK8.0 feet so he does a lot of MTO and/or MTM.

Lastly, I assume you refer to Yohei otherwise not sure who YK is. The main value proposition for "testing" relatively unknown makers is to get a good product at a cheaper price. It's a bit like buying EB vs English brands. Obviously, you need to be technically sound to evaluate this and also pretty much be willing to take a risk that the item could be crap. The thing about TM is he tries a lot of makers using his own money and evaluates them fairly. He doesn't stare at pictures of shoes from afar and gives some snarky comments like an armchair expert. If you do not want to take the risk, then you either go for the established makers or be a fool and believe in "trust the brand" and "quality should be apparent" nonsense being spewed. After which you cry about why your cleverly shoes rock.

Anyway, you might not have much of a choice nowadays with travel restrictions.

 

[ecwy]

but then you need beautiful friends and wife (s) sorry could not resist

My opinion:
It was amusing when the screenshots first popped up but it got old really fast. And now what was once a beautiful, informative thread is clogged full of lame jokes and useless posts.

 

[dieworkwear]

My opinion:
It was amusing when the screenshots first popped up but it got old really fast. And now what was once a beautiful, informative thread is clogged full of lame jokes and useless posts.

Please tell me you are not one of those loser online people that read online rather than be an independent individual

Most people that read just online have no friends and no wife Hahahaha

I hope that's not you

 

[clee1982]

@ecwy

yup, Yohei Fukuda (so should be YF not sure what brain fart I did). Yup, I checked in with TM from time to time on IG, will definitely defer his expertise, though given if I visit China it would be Hangzhou + Shanghai at most, so it will probably just be limited to options around there.

On GC, I'm not sure I could persuade myself. The comment here are based on clients, which are amusing to say the least (even screenshot aside). The one really struck me was the part about how one has to be able to push back, otherwise GC walks over the client. I can't see any reason why client should be treat this way.

 

[dieworkwear]

@ecwy

yup, Yohei Fukuda (so should be YF not sure what brain fart I did). Yup, I checked in with TM from time to time on IG, will definitely defer his expertise, though given if I visit China it would be Hangzhou + Shanghai at most, so it will probably just be limited to options around there.

On GC, I'm not sure I could persuade myself. The comment here are based on clients, which are amusing to say the least (even screenshot aside). The one really struck me was the part about how one has to be able to push back, otherwise GC walks over the client. I can't see any reason why client should be treat this way.

If you're in NYC, why not just use Nicholas Templeman when he returns? Of all the bespoke makers I've worked with, he's been the best. The prices are fair, the quality of the make is top-notch, and he's extremely flexible in terms of what's he's able to make. I've ordered three pairs from so far and they've each been pretty different. He'll work with you to get the exact toe shape you want, stitching style, etc.

The best thing is that he's willing to take it upon himself to fix whatever he sees wrong. Two friends of mine have told me that, after they received their shoes, NIcholas saw something wrong on their pairs later and, unprompted, asked for the shoes back so he could fix some issue. You rarely, if ever, hear of that nowadays. I don't know why it should be the client's job to read all this stuff. Part of the point of going to a bespoke maker is that you're relying on someone's expertise, not become some internet expert yourself. Nice thing about working with an honest maker like this is that they'll fix what they see wrong.

My shoes so far:

My first pair of split toes

A much rounder pair of split toes.

A recent pair of black side zips.

I'm sure whatever you want, he can make.

 

[boot_owl]

Secondly, not all his orders are bespoke. He has a fairly standard UK8.0 feet so he does a lot of MTO and/or MTM.

Small correction, he’s actually uk 8.5 or else I would have bought a lot of his pre-loved shoes.