The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[jiredell]

Marcel Mrsan. He has now moved to Lancaster, Pennsylvania, to set up a proper shoemaking school there.

Good to know. I guess the mid Atlantic states are the bespoke shoe haven in N America?

 

[Luigi_M]

You forget Oregon

 

[dieworkwear]

Mark over at The Armoury has been doing some really cool videos. He recently uploaded one on two of his Fukuda shoes.





The wider last looks a bit shapeless when next to the sleeker last, but I think they look really coherent here:





Similar last here:

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Is it just me, or does Mark Cho look different in every photo? Over the years I thought he had a little crew, but it turns out they are all photos of himself.

 

[willyto]

The fact that those single monks are suede and he doesn't unbuckle them to put them on might play a role in them being a bit looser I can imagine. Although the last is a bit different obviously.

I really like that last jacket by the way, the white buttons look very nice.

 

[daizawaguy]

I noticed this! Slipping on a single monk without unbuckling them, and a bespoke at that! Each to their own, but that is going to create unnecessary stretch - you can see it around the ankle - bulging already. Of significance though are the remarks the maker always tries to fit the exact fit on the first shoe - by reducing - I understand the technique, but if a client likes loose shoes, then that first shoe is always going to be not used in circulation - just as Mr. Cho`s experience. In fact, finding that sweet spot on the first shoe is quite tricky - only happened once with me - Yuigo Hayano nailed it after 3 fitting shoes, but made my first bespoke bang on. Lots of communication and guess work necessary, but beats that first bespoke shoe rarely being used experience.

 

[jiredell]

You forget Oregon

Tell me more

 

[bjhofkin]

@dieworkwear

NICHOLAS POSTED A PIC OF YOUR SIDE BOOTS ON INSTAGRAM SO YOU NEED TO DO THAT THING YOU DO WHERE YOU CAPTURE A HIGH-RES IMAGE OF IT AND POST IT HERE

WHY HAVE YOU NOT DONE IT YET WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear

NICHOLAS POSTED A PIC OF YOUR SIDE BOOTS ON INSTAGRAM SO YOU NEED TO DO THAT THING YOU DO WHERE YOU CAPTURE A HIGH-RES IMAGE OF IT AND POST IT HERE

WHY HAVE YOU NOT DONE IT YET WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR

Some other photos too at the end, which show the color and shape a bit better. Excited to get them.

 

[jaywhyy]

What leather are the side panels, looks a lot more grained and soft than the front? The black boot trees are a nice touch

 

[bjhofkin]

Some other photos too at the end, which show the color and shape a bit better. Excited to get them.


View attachment 1395920 View attachment 1395910
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[dieworkwear]

What leather are the side panels, looks a lot more grained and soft than the front? The black boot trees are a nice touch

I haven't gotten them yet, so I can't say. Maybe @ntempleman can answer.

 

[acapaca]

Those kick ass.

I think you said before that you couldn't find quite that makeup in RTW, correct? If they exist, I'd love to have something similar. I get the impression that side-zips are considerably less favored than chelseas for some reason, but I really dig them.

 

[Luigi_M]

Tell me more

There's a guy from Oregon hanging 'round here, which I've been told knows a thing or two about bespoke shoe/boot-making.
Maybe @DWFII knows him ...

 

[dieworkwear]

Those kick ass.

I think you said before that you couldn't find quite that makeup in RTW, correct? If they exist, I'd love to have something similar. I get the impression that side-zips are considerably less favored than chelseas for some reason, but I really dig them.

Thanks!

Yes, I got these because I couldn't find what I wanted on the ready-to-wear market.

Fashion brands often have the shape and design I want, but the quality of thier shoes often leaves something to be desired. I'm not the kind of guy who insists that everything be made top notch, but brands like Margiela often use leathers that just feel a bit disappointing.

Some traditional brands also offer side zips, but the last is quite right for me. They often look like the company took one of thier dress shoe lasts and used it for a side-zip boot. I want something a bit more casual than that, as I want to wear these with black jeans.

Sometimes I see a company that combines both of these things -- a more traditional construction method and a fashion-forward design -- but the lasts are often too pointy for me. Barbanera is an example.

So I basically got these. Going to wear them for a while before figuring out my next order. Will either be these same boots in brown or another pair of split toes, but in suede. Thinking about loafers somewhere down the road too.