The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[bjhofkin]

You missed your chance to go for hot pink.

George boots sound great. I've always wanted a pair of those as well. I also don't wear suits very often, so it's all casual shoes for me -- derbies, loafers, boots. No real use for oxfords.

Funny enough, I thought those were monogrammed at first too. Then took a closer look. I was undecided on the shoe tree color, but figured I'd do black to match the shoes.

 

[ntempleman]

There’s still time

 

[bjhofkin]

This is inspiring me to think about something similar.

Maybe with a heel counter, a bit more heel, a double leather sole, and a rubber half sole – like this (but without a heel pull):



Plus maybe a Norwegian welt and full shearling lining to really winterize the whole thing.

Brown Bakers waxed flesh calf, I'm thinking.

@ntempleman, I'm hereby warning you: This concept is starting to germinate in my head – no matter how much it might have you scratching yours…

Mainly for fun. I fit perfectly fine in RTW, but just enjoy the process of getting bespoke shoes. I also find I like wearing them more.

A coming pair of bespoke side zips that will replace some from Margiela. In some cases, I also can't find what I need in RTW. Most side zips aren't very well made or they don't have the very casual toe shape I want. So I got these from Nicholas.

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[dieworkwear]

This is inspiring me to think about something similar.

I like side zips with workwear, contemporary casualwear, and a very narrow range of classic casualwear (mostly jeans and a topcoat). But I think they look good like this.

Historically, some guys have worn the style with tailoring, but I don't think I would

I think the style looks better when it's clean and minimal. I like the roper panel (not sure what else to call it) on mine. But otherwise, think they look better without chunky welts.

I think they can come off as a kind of "femme" shoe in today's context. At least, I see more women wearing side zips nowadays than men. Marco Rubio was also once mercilessly mocked online for wearing a pair of Cuban heeled side zips because they look fashiony to most people. But I like them for that reason.

Over on the SWD side of the board, the style is pretty commonly worn with a range of outfits. Not sure I like that Felix boot in the IG post. To the degree that's such a thing as an "iconic" side zip, Margiela's is pretty popular on online fashion forum boards. But the quality of their boots ranges from meh to terrible.

The new version, called the Campus boot, is even more "femme" because it has an elevated heel.

As a line, Stoffa feels very "side zip" appropriate to me. But in the cleaner, more minimalist version of the style, not really that Felix boot.




Newcomer on this forum also recently picked up some black Viberg side zips. I like how they look with black leather jackets (you can't see them in the second photo, but you can imagine how an all-black outfit like that looks with his black roughout boots)

 

[bjhofkin]

The idea that's forming in my head is definitely more on the workwear end of the spectrum – the second and third photos you included get the closest for sure.

For sure chunkier than typical side-zips – almost like engineer boots but quicker to get on/off (and w/o straps or buckles).

It's not the zipper element that interests me so much as the non-laceup design, which can be accomplished in a bunch of ways, obviously – but a zipper design makes boots so easy to just grab and go.

I like side zips with workwear, contemporary casualwear, and a very narrow range of classic casualwear (mostly jeans and a topcoat). But I think they look good like this.


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Historically, some guys have worn the style with tailoring, but I don't think I would


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I think the style looks better when it's clean and minimal. I like the roper panel (not sure what else to call it) on mine. But otherwise, think they look better without chunky welts.

I think they can come off as a kind of "femme" shoe in today's context. At least, I see more women wearing side zips nowadays than men. Marco Rubio was also once mercilessly mocked online for wearing a pair of Cuban heeled side zips because they look fashiony to most people. But I like them for that reason.

Over on the SWD side of the board, the style is pretty commonly worn with a range of outfits. Not sure I like that Felix boot in the IG post. To the degree that's such a thing as an "iconic" side zip, Margiela's is pretty popular on online fashion forum boards. But the quality of their boots ranges from meh to terrible.

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The new version, called the Campus boot, is even more "femme" because it has an elevated heel.

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As a line, Stoffa feels very "side zip" appropriate to me. But in the cleaner, more minimalist version of the style, not really that Felix boot.

 

[dieworkwear]

The idea that's forming in my head is definitely more on the workwear end of the spectrum – the second and third photos you included get the closest for sure.

For sure chunkier than typical side-zips – almost like engineer boots but quicker to get on/off (and w/o straps or buckles).

It's not the zipper element that interests me so much as the non-laceup design, which can be accomplished in a bunch of ways, obviously – but a zipper design makes boots so easy to just grab and go.

These are a bit sleeker than what you're talking about, but Nicholas has a pair of pull-on Wellington boots that I think look terrific. Really nice with jeans and casualwear. I think they can still be worn with workwear. It's almost like a roper boot.

For my next commission, I'm between a pair of suede split toes or another pair of side zips in whatever leather best matches his boots.

 

[willyto]

I believe that Dominic Casey is one of the makers that loves making Wellington boots and in the interviews and videos he appears I recall him saying something about the style not being demanded by clients anymore.

 

[krakatoa]

I'm giving some thought to Perry Ercolino. I've only seen a few members here refer to him, and there are a couple posts on Ask Andy. But there's not much out there. My reasons are 1) I like the idea of supporting an American artisan; 2) from what little I've read from clients (there's one SF member who has an old, but pretty lengthy and informative post about the process) it looks serious, stylish, and like it's good work; 3) His shop is a half hour drive from my in-laws' house, so access is easier/cheaper than going to London/Japan, etc.

For all three reasons you mentioned, I commissioned Perry to make a pair of wholecut derbies a few years ago. I was and remain quite pleased with the result. Mine don't have the bulbous toe of the shoes in the pics dieworkwear posted, but the profile is - unsurprisingly - quite different from two Japanese bespoke makers I've used. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

 

[jiredell]

For all three reasons you mentioned, I commissioned Perry to make a pair of wholecut derbies a few years ago. I was and remain quite pleased with the result. Mine don't have the bulbous toe of the shoes in the pics dieworkwear posted, but the profile is - unsurprisingly - quite different from two Japanese bespoke makers I've used. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Thank you, I very much appreciate it and I think I'd like to talk to you a bit about your experience and will PM you regarding that. I'd love to hear more specifics about the process and, in particular, about his ability to work with different stylings.

 

[brax]

I'm in Atlanta. So, whenever something like normal life resumes, trunk shows do come here. I'm in no rush, of course.

Isn't there a Hungarian teaching shoe-making in Savannah? I know there used to be.

 

[brax]

Those chunkier split toes also filled as slot I couldn't easily find on the market. I like the idea of a more casual and rounded split toe, but these from JM Weston were way too clunky. I tried them on in the store and they just felt awkward on me.

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So then I had Nicholas make something similar but without the chunky welt. We also used slightly thinner leather than Weston, so the shoes wouldn't look so heavy.


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If someone wanted something RTW though, I think Paraboot's Avignon fit a similar slot. I just think they look a little more casual and maybe not ideal in some tailored outfits.


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Also the Chambord.

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Your pair is much better than any of the RTW options. Way better.

 

[dieworkwear]

Just remembered the name of that Japanese shoemaker who trained at Gatto. He makes a slightly bulbous, square toe, but I think they look very good. (Maybe bulbous isn't the right word, but I like these shapes better than the ones from that other shoemaker).

https://www.instagram.com/masahitofuruhata/

And then a pair worn in

 

[jiredell]

Isn't there a Hungarian teaching shoe-making in Savannah? I know there used to be.

Yes, Koronya bespoke shoes, which is an option. The wife often talks about wanting to visit Savannah. It’s a good 4.5 hour drive to get there. Not prohibitive by any means.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

A bit older, but here's PeteK's thread on his 2014 MTM experience with Ercolino. Also, when thinking about the unusual styling of those Ercolinos above, keep in mind that they were made for mw313, who has unusually-shaped feet. From his post with those pics:

"I have a very unusual foot shape and size, so this was my only option and I was more than willing to work with him to figure out something amazing for me. I'm measured at a US 14 AAA or so on the Brannock device so as you can imagine, it is near impossible for me to get shoes. The few brands that I have shoes from (Allen Edmonds, Alden, Enzo Bonafe, Vass, Edward Green, and Gaziano & Girling) had to do a lot of work to make shoes that fit decently for me (with variations on extra sock liners, thick or double socks, etc), so I wanted to see what it would be like to get a shoe that is actually made for my unique feet. On top of that, we discussed making them as close cut and fitted as possible to make my feet look shorter too. We also discussed the toe shape and decided on a chisel toe to work with my shape of foot."

I'm giving some thought to Perry Ercolino. I've only seen a few members here refer to him, and there are a couple posts on Ask Andy. But there's not much out there. My reasons are 1) I like the idea of supporting an American artisan; 2) from what little I've read from clients (there's one SF member who has an old, but pretty lengthy and informative post about the process) it looks serious, stylish, and like it's good work; 3) His shop is a half hour drive from my in-laws' house, so access is easier/cheaper than going to London/Japan, etc.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Yes, Koronya bespoke shoes, which is an option. The wife often talks about wanting to visit Savannah. It’s a good 4.5 hour drive to get there. Not prohibitive by any means.

Marcel Mrsan. He has now moved to Lancaster, Pennsylvania, to set up a proper shoemaking school there.