The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[Manuel]

Mor or less........, you should observe the review (review means sanding here) of the central piece, it is called metatarsal olive here and compare it with yours. This piece will adapt much better to its anterior arch, that is, to its central metatarsals, look at the edges, they are not pronounced.
By the way I have placed a complete insole below yours to place the metatarsal olive, you can see the effect of a complete insole but it is not, only that way I can place the piece and I do not need any measure or footprint

Sanded and made to measure. You should also look the insole on the left and see the assembly that is different.

I´m sanding the edges now so there is no step, you will not notice anything

I will cover it with the same lining as yours

Well, the insoles are finished and only one piece is missing, look at the one on the left, the insole has all the pieces under the lining, as it should be, but why your specialist has mounted the arch on the liner? Could you answer me to that?
I see your arch excessively large, although for your pathology it will not affect you, note that it is above the central olive

To be continue......

 

[comrade]

A pair of derby is finished.

View attachment 1195168
View attachment 1195167 View attachment 1195165

Who made those shoes?
They are beautiful,

 

[Alan Bee]

Mor or less........, you should observe the review (review means sanding here) of the central piece, it is called metatarsal olive here and compare it with yours. This piece will adapt much better to its anterior arch, that is, to its central metatarsals, look at the edges, they are not pronounced.
By the way I have placed a complete insole below yours to place the metatarsal olive, you can see the effect of a complete insole but it is not, only that way I can place the piece and I do not need any measure or footprint

View attachment 1195571

Sanded and made to measure. You should also look the insole on the left and see the assembly that is different.
View attachment 1195572

I´m sanding the edges now so there is no step, you will not notice anything

View attachment 1195573 View attachment 1195574

I will cover it with the same lining as yours

View attachment 1195577


Well, the insoles are finished and only one piece is missing, look at the one on the left, the insole has all the pieces under the lining, as it should be, but why your specialist has mounted the arch on the liner? Could you answer me to that?
I see your arch excessively large, although for your pathology it will not affect you, note that it is above the central olive

View attachment 1195578
View attachment 1195589

To be continue......

@Manuel

I’m totally blown away that you’re doing this. This can only come from the curious mind of a true craftsman. I am watching and learning.

As requested, I’ve taken photos of all angles of the orthotic. And your guess on size is almost right. I’m a UK 11/11.5 and US 12 in most dress shoes. Add half a size to each for casual and athletic shoes.

Alan Bee

 

[Manuel]

Do not worry Alan, this is just an example, the differences can be in the measure of the lasts, each craftsman designs his own and maybe a 10 of mine could be an 11 of his, it does not matter
let's see....
I haven't arch so big so I'm going to make one with rubber-eva rests

I am going to sand, give the shape of your foot and give it your measure, it is not easy to do so because you have to go over the baseless arch and the rubber presents difficulties since it has no support base but I am used to everything.

Well we already have it, now we just need to place it on top of the template, it is not a good method since aesthetically it is ugly does not give us the possibility of rectifying measures without risking touching the lining.

oh! I have to leave, to be continue.......

 

[Manuel]

We can see the arch reviewed or sanded as you want to call it, I never do it like that and now let's see why.
You should also observe the metatarsal olive, the sanding is not noticeable but the heights are there, aesthetically and functionally it is perfect.
Let's see now how the placement of the arch over the lining and the metatarsal discharge breaks the aesthetic.

This is already a bit sloppy ...... I think you understand it well, just give glue on something finished is ..... very sloppy at least for me.....but it's the same this is not going to serve for anyone......

What would happen if I have to rectify the insole to the client? it's very easy......I could not because I would undoubtedly brush the lining.
For this reason the pieces are never placed on top of the lining, they are always placed underneath and the insoles are left unlined so that the client can try them a few days or a few weeks, when the client confirms that they are well then they are lined and if there is rectify them nothing will happen because they are unlined so you can modify what the template needs.

 

[Alan Bee]

We can see the arch reviewed or sanded as you want to call it, I never do it like that and now let's see why.
You should also observe the metatarsal olive, the sanding is not noticeable but the heights are there, aesthetically and functionally it is perfect.
Let's see now how the placement of the arch over the lining and the metatarsal discharge breaks the aesthetic.


View attachment 1196039


This is already a bit sloppy ...... I think you understand it well, just give glue on something finished is ..... very sloppy at least for me.....but it's the same this is not going to serve for anyone......
View attachment 1196041
View attachment 1196042

What would happen if I have to rectify the insole to the client? it's very easy......I could not because I would undoubtedly brush the lining.
For this reason the pieces are never placed on top of the lining, they are always placed underneath and the insoles are left unlined so that the client can try them a few days or a few weeks, when the client confirms that they are well then they are lined and if there is rectify them nothing will happen because they are unlined so you can modify what the template needs.

View attachment 1196043

@Manuel

I have a few sets (of orthotic insoles). The one I showed earlier was the beta version. I wear both as I requested a slightly shallower pellotte on the final version(s) for a better fit with more fitted shoes.

Here’s the final version.

Alan Bee

 

[Manuel]

@Manuel

I have a few sets (of orthotic insoles). The one I showed earlier was the beta version. I wear both as I requested a slightly shallower pellotte on the final version(s) for a better fit with more fitted shoes.

Here’s the final version.

Alan Bee
View attachment 1196078

I apologize if my expression was not correct and I anticipated when evaluating the final work of your specialist, that orthotic insole you show is a perfect and very well made version.

 

[Manuel]

I have given that form, it's clear we don´t have the patient in front of us and I have done it in a common way, each patient needs personalized insoles.

I had anticipated and took some pictures of the insole adapted to the footwear, I was very concerned about the aesthetics and the presentation obviously I was wrong.
That's how they were inside the shoe.

The other, both are perfectly functional.......

 

[Manuel]

A side shot, the insole that has the rubber base will adapt perfectly to any shape, its movement inside the shoe will be minimal, it will still move.

The half insoles have an advantage, they take up little space, especially in RTW shoes, that can be good and necessary but they also have a small problem, even if you think not, the insoles are not fixed and move inside the footwear and that diminishes its effect as medical treatment, to counteract that small movement and keep them fixed in their position trying to keep the foot always in the same place there is a small home remedy that you can do, let's see it.

So if it was necessary you can take a small piece of velcro with adhesive or with quick glue and place a small piece inside the shoe and do the same in the insole it´s very easy.

This will allow you to change the insoles of some shoes to others with total guarantee and security.
To be continue.....

 

[Manuel]

Many doctors do not like half insoles and only prescribe complete insoles and they also inspect them before they are lined.
For the orthotic insoles to be effective, shoes, insoles and feet must form a compact block that guarantees that there will be no movement inside the shoe and the treatment will be effective 99%.
There are many possibilities, I show you some, first you get a mold of your feet, then you carve and finally mold the pieces and adapt to your shoes.
These are only for arch support......

for sneakers, note that they are always complete..... they are really more complicated to adapt to standard shoes or RTW.

 

[Alan Bee]

Many doctors do not like half insoles and only prescribe complete insoles and they also inspect them before they are lined.
For the orthotic insoles to be effective, shoes, insoles and feet must form a compact block that guarantees that there will be no movement inside the shoe and the treatment will be effective 99%.
There are many possibilities, I show you some, first you get a mold of your feet, then you carve and finally mold the pieces and adapt to your shoes.
These are only for arch support......

View attachment 1196231
View attachment 1196232 View attachment 1196233

for sneakers, note that they are always complete..... they are really more complicated to adapt to standard shoes or RTW.
View attachment 1196234
View attachment 1196235

@Manuel

The orthotics were initially constructed as full length insoles. But I requested the toe part be cut off to give my toes wiggle room in dress shoes. Hence the three quarter length.

He also made me full length insoles for my athletic shoes which I wear a half (or full size) larger.

Alan Bee

 

[Manuel]

I understand perfectly,I see you are in very good hands, you have a great professional.

I forgot the hard plastic or polypropylene molded to the heat and sanded later they also give very good results, are many the possibilities.

I remember the case of several clients who could not stand the stencils in their thin shoes so I made the pieces without base, sanded them and put them to measure and then placed them inside their, I placed in top a leather lining they were perfect, . they were very happy but the problem was that they could not change their insoles to other shoes so they had several models.
You can imagine it ....

The real problem is getting a perfect fit, you have a beautiful shoes especially black shoes.
When the foot goes forward because the shoe is wide the problem is very easy to correct, You can convert your half in into full insole, with 3 millimeters in soft are enough, the technician should sand and test until his foot is perfect inside the footwear.
Something like this....

But, what is the solution when it comes to true bespoke shoes?

 

[Manuel]

Before continuing, I would like to share with you something very special.
After 25 years I have gone back to a stage to give a concert to help the blind, the concert was held last Friday, at first I was a little nervous, it had been a long time since I played, but when I started playing my fingers flowed smoothly and harmoniously.
I'm right in the center as 1st guitar in front of the orchestra conductor Rafael Romero, I had a great time playing with these grandparents, they play and sing very well, I enjoyed it a lot.
It is a very popular topic here in Spain.
I hope you like it.

 

[ottmt89]

Who made those shoes?
They are beautiful,

The project as I wrote before is called: Calzoleria pisana, the craftman of shoes. But we have a sales points in Messina, where it is possible to make an appointment. The shoes are produced in Piazza Armerina in Sicily.

Our shoe is very light, we try to lighten the shoe as much as possible. the innersole is thinner than normal.
Inside we don't insert any shank and / or leather reinforcements. For the sole we always try to use a light and flexible leather. But then the choice is always of the customer.

The leather we used to make these shoes is an ILCEA box calf. For any questions I'm happy to answer, thanks for the compliments.

 

[ecwy]

Our shoe is very light, we try to lighten the shoe as much as possible. the innersole is thinner than normal.
Inside we don't insert any shank and / or leather reinforcements. For the sole we always try to use a light and flexible leather. But then the choice is always of the customer.

Are you saying there is no shank, no toe puff, no heel counters?