- Mar 11, 2014
- Reaction score
The stool is definitely (at least to the extent I can be certain without putting my ass on it...) curved.
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Am I wrong for thinking that sole sits unusually high off the ground? At the forepart of the shoe? (And not talking about toe spring, but where the ball of the foot would sit)
In English shoe making, a 'twisted' last is the application of contrapposto into last making. Contrapposto in art (not only Michelangelo's 'David' but thousands of depictions of the human body in painting and sculpture) places the lines of shoulder and pelvis onto different planes, so they are twisted against each other. This introduces a dynamic and tension, but also ease into the human figure, which a straight plonked -down figure (like the proverbial 'sack of potatoes') does not have.Kirby recently did a video of his Clevs and talked about the twisted last. I read this lessens the creasing. I think Kirby said it elongates the silhouette without adding volume. I don't know if I understand either of those reasons, but Clev seems to be the only shoemaker who does this.
That's what I meant when I talked about "the last is twisted to provide more support to the medial arch ". I have model 1930's West End lasts like that in both my size and that of my wife. The plane of the heel seat is twisted several degrees in opposition to the plane of the forepart, with the plane of the heel seat being higher on the medial side.That same applies to the twisted last. The lines of joint and heel are twisted against each other: the joint line slopes down towards the inside, which raises the outside while the heel line slopes down to the outside.
Didn't we have some discussion on the leather thread where you said something like consumers shouldn't need to research themselves to nitpick the quality and should trust the brand. Quality should be apparent or something to that extent.Can I ask if those shoes rock back and forth as a result?
I recently received a pair of Cleveleys and they were messed up in all sorts of ways -- the bottom of the sole was poorly finished, the uppers had what looked to be shoe polish drips, and there was a bit of space between the sole and the uppers. The two worst things, however, were: they were a bit too long, despite me going in three or four times for fittings (so many I've lost count). And the shoes rocked back and forth.
The rocking, to me, seemed like a result of two things: Clev's supposed twisted last (I still don't get why they do that) and a beveled waist that seemed to stretch into the forepart of the shoe. The middle dipped down so much, and the shoes along the outer edges sat pretty high off the ground.
Anyway, they were a mess and the order is currently being remade. There were so many things wrong with the shoes, I don't know if I can even tell what caused the rocking.
Kirby recently did a video of his Clevs and talked about the twisted last. I read this lessens the creasing. I think Kirby said it elongates the silhouette without adding volume. I don't know if I understand either of those reasons, but Clev seems to be the only shoemaker who does this. And it's not even consistent on every order, which makes you wonder if it's not a feature, but a bug, and lasts are just being pushed out of the workshop because of the number of orders.