The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[j ingevaldsson]

Does anyone have experience with buckskin suede? I recently ordered a pair of NSTs in brown buckskin (tannery described the color as "coconut"). The leather swatch seemed fine -- I would have just assumed it's normal suede had I not been told otherwise -- but I don't have any experience with buckskin. The nap seemed finer than the other regular suede swatches, but not as velvety as nubuck. I remember an old ASW post where Will said white bucks should be made from buckskin (which, apparently, is why he went bespoke for those), although I don't remember him citing a reason.

Does anyone have experience with the material? Any things I should be aware of or concerned about?

Buck suede have a fine nap, apart from that it can vary quite a bit. It’s sometimes quite thin, making it a bit more delicate, though I’m sure that Nicholas will make sure that the lining is thicker to compensate if that’s the case. Also imperfections in the leather seem to be more apparent then on regular full reverse calf suede (or split suedes for that matter), partly because of the finer nap, but again in your case this will likely not be an issue. Otherwise treat it like regular suede, and enjoy the soft feeling

 

[dieworkwear]

Buck suede have a fine nap, apart from that it can vary quite a bit. It’s sometimes quite thin, making it a bit more delicate, though I’m sure that Nicholas will make sure that the lining is thicker to compensate if that’s the case. Also imperfections in the leather seem to be more apparent then on regular full reverse calf suede (or split suedes for that matter), partly because of the finer nap, but again in your case this will likely not be an issue. Otherwise treat it like regular suede, and enjoy the soft feeling

This is actually for a Cleverley remake, but thanks for the info!

 

[j ingevaldsson]

This is actually for a Cleverley remake, but thanks for the info!

Aha

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Cross post from the shoemaking techniques thread:
Now the massive review of all 40 contest shoes in the world championships in shoemaking is now published here. Some really amazing stuff!

The contestants were to make a dark brow full brogue, hand welted with hand made sole stitch (more criteria on the link). Below a brief summary and a couple of pictures of the top three.

1. Daniel Wegan
Last year’s runner-up Daniel Wegan returned with an even more amazing shoe this year, earning him the world champion in shoemaking title. His shoe is a true exhibition piece, reminiscent of how many contest shoes could look like in the late 1800s or early 1900s, when shoe contests was a huge thing around the world, and makers pushed the craft with their entries. It is 100% handmade solely by Daniel Wegan himself, the upper is hand stitched and even the toe and heel plates have been made by hand by him. As Daniel describes it he has put a lot more effort into making this shoe than last year, he didn’t count exactly but up towards 150 hours. Especially the stitching of the uppers were time consuming.

2. Christophe Corthay
Christophe Corthay, France, finished in 9th place last year, and similar to Daniel he has returned this year with a shoe even more well-made and ambitious, where Christophe have made it all himself. It certainly stands out as well, though more because of the sublime contrasted braided sole stitching and the matching orange piping and tassels, plus of course the awesome heel.

3. Eiji Murata
This shoe is a very different cup of tea than the two previous podium shoes. Made by the mythic Japanese bespoke shoemaker Eiji Murata, who runs the brand Main d’Or all by himself, it’s a shoe that may look quite plain and “normal” at first sight. However, when you begin to look closer, you realise that it almost looks like a computer-made, 3D printed shoe or something, the level of the execution is the best possible, jury points in this category were very high.

 

[Concordia]

That Murata pair is pretty astounding.

 

[Texasmade]

I agree. I don’t know all the technical merits and finer details of bespoke shoemaking but 3rd place looks the best to me in terms of actual shoes and not model shoes.

 

[DWFII]

I agree. I don’t know all the technical merits and finer details of bespoke shoemaking but 3rd place looks the best to me in terms of actual shoes and not model shoes.

I understand your point of view.

That said, I think it is worth noting that this was not a Trade Show or a Marketing Exposition. It was a shoe making competition.

All the shoes that I saw coming from the Competition, were exemplary. But for the pure Art of Shoemaking--The Art and the Mysterie, to borrow from the early 19th century and Rees--Daniel Wegan's shoes stand head and shoulder above even his nearest competitors...much less what passes for 'quality' in contemporary culture.

That the organizers and the judges recognized that, is, by itself, worthy of immense respect and gives me great hope.

 

[DWFII]

Yes, and I would be remiss if I didn't reiterate that Wegan's shoe was done 100% by him and 100% by hand--no machines, no outworkers.

Remarkable what the human spirit is capable of.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

That Murata pair is pretty astounding.

Great shoe yes, especially the very precise execution.

I agree. I don’t know all the technical merits and finer details of bespoke shoemaking but 3rd place looks the best to me in terms of actual shoes and not model shoes.

As DWF states, it's a shoemaking contest. If I were to choose one model of the whole bunch to order for wear, it would be Per Nobile's entry which finished 9th, it's a super beautiful shoe IMO.

I understand your point of view.

That said, I think it is worth noting that this was not a Trade Show or a Marketing Exposition. It was a shoe making competition.

All the shoes that I saw coming from the Competition, were exemplary. But for the pure Art of Shoemaking--The Art and the Mysterie, to borrow from the early 19th century and Rees--Daniel Wegan's shoes stand head and shoulder above even his nearest competitors...much less what passes for 'quality' in contemporary culture.

That the organizers and the judges recognized that, is, by itself, worthy of immense respect and gives me great hope.

Yeah, there were a lot of amazing shoes part of the contest, but Daniel's shoe is a serious masterpiece well-worth the title.

 

[dieworkwear]

Really enjoyed the diversity at this table. The conversation makes the trade feel more exciting and potentially relevant to a larger audience, not just people who wear suits and sport coats. There were some nice stories here of people getting bespoke sneakers made for Burning Man, guys who want workwear boots, people who work in creative fields and want something avant-garde/ gothic.

YouTube isn't letting me play this through embedded media, but if you click the link, you can watch it on Youtube.

 

[ottmt89]

Public in this topic, where the level is very high, some of my shoes. It's a project, Calzoleria Pisana, born recently of rediscovery of shoesmaking in Sicily. In the photo there is an oxford brogue. The leather is vegetable tanning from the Ilcea tannery. Sorry for quality of photos.

 

[Manuel]

The shoes of the championship are extraordinary but they are impossible lasts, if you make bespoke shoes, the thread is about custom shoes no?, you will know that very few people would endure hours walking with some of those shoes

Lately I have a lot of fun, recently I made four pairs of shoes for a friend´s forum in a single pair of lasts, yes only a couple of lasts, they are all different, I have even altered the number and the width.

There is always someone willing to take them, they are here...authentic custom shoes or bespoke shoes to walk for hours and hours without problems.

I also want to share with you the sound of my instruments, some members of this orchestra wear my shoes and my violins, I am very proud, I hope you like it.



I also want to share the sound of my guitars with that of my violins in a flamenco-classic fusion piece directed by Carlos Pacheco.

 

[Manuel]

I believe that a good shoe championship would be like this:
Three clients with different feet.
A single craftsman to be able to do the following:
A pair of shoes tailored to each client and all different.
The craftsman would have to make: the lasts by hand, design, cut, sew by machine, sew the fence and the soles and finish them completely.
The adjustment would have to be perfect to move to the final.
Then the jury with the clients would decide who is the best in every way.
It is only a personal but fair reflection.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

I believe that a good shoe championship would be like this:
Three clients with different feet.
A single craftsman to be able to do the following:
A pair of shoes tailored to each client and all different.
The craftsman would have to make: the lasts by hand, design, cut, sew by machine, sew the fence and the soles and finish them completely.
The adjustment would have to be perfect to move to the final.
Then the jury with the clients would decide who is the best in every way.
It is only a personal but fair reflection.

There's lots of ways to do a contest, but, it also have to be realistic to achieve. Do you think that the contest you describe there is realistic?

 

[dieworkwear]

I don't mind the more avant-garde entries. The nice thing about having an open set of rules is that people who are interested in more practical shoes can look at those things, while people who appreciate more unusual designs that push the limits of artistic design and craft can enjoy those.