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The Bespoke Shoes Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jerrybrowne, Dec 25, 2014.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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  2. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    Freudenberg skins crop up from time to time; factories and warehouses close, merchants buy the inventory and sell what they can. I’ve got a skin or two knocking around, no doubt some more will shake out. I’ve passed on a fair few, old and tired skins, odd colours etc but occasionally something good appears
     

  3. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Yup. And think there's a guy in Switzerland or something like that who sits on a huge stock, he chips some off every now and then and do like Cleverley do with the russian reindeer, claim that "it's almost gone now, very limited, super exclusive", yet keep getting it out for years and years.. :)
     

  4. Manuel

    Manuel Senior Member

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    Thank you very much Texasmde for taking your time in uploading the photographs.

    Perfect, you should not worry about your feet, the shoes are very good, simply and personally, only personally I think they would have gained a lot in aesthetics modifying slightly the internal part from half to forward to get a more balanced tip and totally disguise the shape giving them a completely normal appearance in sight, but this is just my opinion, I see them very well.
    Your case is not worrisome.
    I remember an extreme case, a client with a lot of weight, he could not bend over to fasten his shoes, his size was a 2.5-3 UK but with a width of at least 11UK, I looked for the photos, here I could not do much just see the customer walking well is already a victory.

    you observe the measure and the width
    zapato ancho.jpg
    Other pictures...
    zapato ancho 1.jpg zapato ancho2.jpg zapato ancho 3.jpg zapato ancho 4.jpg
    finally the shoes were very good for really hard feet
    zapato ancho 5.jpg zapato ancho 6.jpg
     

  5. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Stylish Dinosaur

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    What is special about this skin
     

  6. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    Nothing in particular really, it was a good tannery that closed down about 20 years ago
     

  7. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Stylish Dinosaur

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    Is it struck (dyed) through?
     

  8. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    No. None of the good chrome calf leathers were/are in my experience
     

  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    This is an interesting issue. Tanneries like Annonay and Freudenberg don't, AFAIK, make any attempt to strike the hides. I don't know the reason why. Maybe just no perceived reason to. I once was told that it's a combination of several factors--age of the animal (older has a thicker grain) and the density of that grain. Which, in turn, necessitates treating the grain surface to ensure penetration. I suspect all of that factors in.

    Thinking about it further, however, there are lots of good to great leathers available that come to mind that seem to defy that explanation--alligator and crocodile, for instance. Kangaroo. Leathers that are not, or not entirely, chrome tanned: IIRC, AA Crack's Baby Calf is struck through.

    That said, I have purchased moderately sized, legitimate, chrome tanned French Calf (don't know the tannery) that was struck through. And I found it to be a wonderful leather for shoes and esp. boots. Tight grain (minimal follicles) and great suppleness.

    Maybe it's just demand.

    We don't get much of the 'great' leather here in the US but of that which we do, I like Annonay despite it not being struck through. I wouldn't use it for boot tops though.

    FWIW...
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2019

  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    I handled some Annonay calf recently and is seemed very delicate and thin.
     

  11. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    Like any tannery they can produce any leather that a client specs, in terms of thickness and colour - but everything I’ve ever seen for intended for the shoe industry has been the opposite of thin and delicate. Usually a little on the heavy side, and quite stiff. 1.2-1.4mm typically, but pretty nice to work with
     

  12. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Distinguished Member

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    Delos & Patrick Rock make perfect shoe.
    Best me ever see!
    Perfect color work
    Perfect everything.
    Berluti bespoke have everything.
    Extra time put in to make everything perfect imo.
    Berluti bespoke 11 - blue.jpg

    look
    Berluti bespoke 16.jpg
     

  13. freddietc

    freddietc New Member

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    Does anyone have an idea of who made these? I picked them up at a Charity shop in London, and have a feeling they might be bespoke.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2019

  14. freddietc

    freddietc New Member

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  15. bjhofkin

    bjhofkin Well-Known Member

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    Definitely a huge stretch to call them bespoke, but I'm posting here for anyone who's also interested in more workwear-style boots (and in that world these are about as bespoke as it gets):

    Role Club (a.k.a. Brian the Bootmaker) chukkas in natural CXL horsehide, customized with a higher shaft. So really "George boots" if we're being technical.

    Gorgeous leather, clean stitching, terrific last, obvious care put into every detail – really the total package. Couldn't be happier and can't wait to start breaking them in!

    p.s. Working on a similar style with The Notorious Mr. Templeman – likely on a slightly more elegant (but still substantial) last and with a slightly higher shaft, and likely in Barenia/Baranil.

    IMG_1776.jpeg IMG_1777.jpeg IMG_1778.jpeg IMG_1779.jpeg IMG_1780.jpeg
     

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