- Apr 13, 2005
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Really great looking. How is the fit?New bespoke pair from Polish maker Jan Kielman, a V cap oxford in reverse calf snuff coloured suede. To enhance the more casual appearance they are made with a semi-square waist and a heavy fudging. We re-made my old lasts quite substantially, since my feet are much larger now than when I had my first pair made 6 years ago. New measurement and a fitting shoe later, the fit is really good now. Some pics:
I always thought that feet don’t really grow as you get older once you’re an adult.New bespoke pair from Polish maker Jan Kielman, a V cap oxford in reverse calf snuff coloured suede. To enhance the more casual appearance they are made with a semi-square waist and a heavy fudging. We re-made my old lasts quite substantially, since my feet are much larger now than when I had my first pair made 6 years ago. New measurement and a fitting shoe later, the fit is really good now. Some pics:
Thanks! Fit is as mentioned really good. They struggle a bit with getting the front portion of the arch on right food good due to my hallucinations valgus issue, as all bespoke makers do, that’s the only slightly bigger thing to sort.Really great looking. How is the fit?
I always thought that feet don’t really grow as you get older once you’re an adult.
Yeah in my case I gained 10-12 kilos and also got some foot issues like hallux valgus (right foot) due to continuing to wear too small shoes. Learned the hard way not to do that.they can flatten out, change with wight gain/ loss, etc
Thank you so much for your insightsI was always taught that when a strong diagonal crease develops across the ball of the foot, it is often an indication that the shoe is too short.
Almost everyone has one foot that is longer than the other one. Most of the time it is not all that significant. But it could certainly be a factor in your problem.
Peoples' feet are not cast from a mold. Some people have long toes, some have short toes. A correct fit is always based on the distance between the back of the heel and the medial ball joint. So if a shoe is fit for overall length, a misfit is a very real possibility. A misfit that could cause the ball joint to 'socket' in the wrong place relative to the last that the shoe was made on.
Again this can cause issues.
I don't know what to tell you beyond that. Aside from the diagonal crease, the rest of the creases (pipes) look pretty normal--leather will crease according to a number of factors, to a greater or lesser degree...the leather itself not the least of them.
Thanks again for your observations. I was able to locate a brannock at my local cobbler, and the measurements indicated that the heel to ball measurement (left) for the problem foot is half a UK size longer than the right foot, so that means that your hunch is correct. The difference is barely perceptible, but the impact on fit is pretty dramatic, unfortunately.^ The main thing is that the critical length measurement for any foot is not the overall length from the back of the heel to the end of the longest toe. The absolutely most important measurement...I'd go so far as to say of all the measurements...is the heel to ball measurement. The length of the last must incorporate enough room for your toes but depending on who you talk to and/or current fashion, that can vary some. But it your medial ball joint is not consistent with the last the shoe does not fit. Period.
As for the rest, If the vendor thinks the H-B is correct and you think the H-B is correct, who am I to say otherwise? I've never seen your foot much less measured it. That said, ask the vendor if they have ever made a shoe or fit up a last from measurements and/or a pedograph.
I am not sanguine about you resolving this issue short of talking to the maker. And I suspect it will not be a wham-bam-thank-you-m'am stretch the ball fix.
The existing last could be modified...even those bespoke makers who carve the last from a block of wood often end up slapping a build-up on the last after a trial fitting to make more room or alter the fit in some way. But all that is after the fact. It won't change the fit on the existing shoes--once the shoe is made, that crucial length measurement cannot be altered.Would it be a big issue to lengthen the last on an existing last, or do we usually resort to making a new one altogether?
These are made from a personalised last by St Crispin's, sorry I did not make it clear earlier.@mammothnguyen
With all this talk about modifying the last, etc., I am not clear about these shoes of yours...are they bespoke? MTM? Or bought through a vendor?
Be aware that it is unlikely that any vendor, even if trained by a bespoke shoemaker (and few are), can measure your feet reliably and accurately. If nothing else no two people will pull a measuring tape exactly the same way even at an obvious location. Muscle tension varies greatly among people and the perception of 'loose, snug, and tight' varies even more.
This is going to sound crazy, but ...These are made from a personalised last by St Crispin's, sorry I did not make it clear earlier.
It's a fairly long story, but in the end, I might have to consider this my tuition fees into the world of MTM/bespoke shoemaking.