The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[DorianGreen]

I had never seen shoes in camel leather, Spigola by Koji Susuki.

 

[marlinspike]

Once upon a time I recall some Japanese makers at the 300,000 yen (actually, I think it was less than that) price point. Are there still any, or are those days long gone?

 

[epsilon22]

Once upon a time I recall some Japanese makers at the 300,000 yen (actually, I think it was less than that) price point. Are there still any, or are those days long gone?

The less known ones may still be in that price point. Kataoka Ken (Siroeno Yosui) used to be in the 200K-ish range but as he got more popular the prices also increased. Now he's at around 400K-ish, I think. The ones not based in Tokyo might be cheaper too.

Or maybe consider MTM, Hiro Yanagimachi would start in the low 300K-ish, but he'd charge based on how extensively he needs to modify the lasts to fit your feet. Mine required 3 adjustments on each side, for a total of 6, and he charged me an additional 42K (6x7K) for last modifications (one-time fee) and 21K (6x3.5K) for pattern modifications (would apply to subsequent orders). Asking for machine-stitched soles (-40K) or no shoe trees (-40K) could reduce the total price too. He's among the more well-known Japanese shoemakers internationally, so his prices would be on the higher end. You should be able to find cheaper MTM elsewhere.

The ones whose main clientele are foreigners probably also hiked up their JPY prices to keep up with the weaker exchange rates vs USD/EUR.

 

[DorianGreen]

An elegant Chukka Boot in snuff suede with storm welt and thick sole by Hiro Yanagimachi.

 

[DorianGreen]

A plain Derby in Chestnut Brown Box Calf, the Lartigue by Efe Laborde. I love the leather, I prefer a uniform colour to any patina.

 

[comrade]

Beautiful shoe. Too pointy for me.

 

[epsilon22]

Beautiful heels!

 

[marlinspike]

The less known ones may still be in that price point. Kataoka Ken (Siroeno Yosui) used to be in the 200K-ish range but as he got more popular the prices also increased. Now he's at around 400K-ish, I think. The ones not based in Tokyo might be cheaper too.

Or maybe consider MTM, Hiro Yanagimachi would start in the low 300K-ish, but he'd charge based on how extensively he needs to modify the lasts to fit your feet. Mine required 3 adjustments on each side, for a total of 6, and he charged me an additional 42K (6x7K) for last modifications (one-time fee) and 21K (6x3.5K) for pattern modifications (would apply to subsequent orders). Asking for machine-stitched soles (-40K) or no shoe trees (-40K) could reduce the total price too. He's among the more well-known Japanese shoemakers internationally, so his prices would be on the higher end. You should be able to find cheaper MTM elsewhere.

The ones whose main clientele are foreigners probably also hiked up their JPY prices to keep up with the weaker exchange rates vs USD/EUR.

Kataoka Ken was actually the person I was thinking of that made me think the days of those prices must be long gone since his prices have come up so much. Sounds like I'll end up sticking with Maftei, though I worry based on age he can't have that many years left.

 

[epsilon22]

Kataoka Ken was actually the person I was thinking of that made me think the days of those prices must be long gone since his prices have come up so much. Sounds like I'll end up sticking with Maftei, though I worry based on age he can't have that many years left.

It's unfortunate, I wonder if he has no disciples he could recommend you?

Edit: Might be worth browsing the shoemakers participating in the shoemaking competition (Jesper's blog has a lot of photos) and commission shoes from promising upcoming artisans before the rest of the internet caught up haha.

 

[ZRH1]

on the topic of 300K, the yen has lost a lot of value and for many years Japanese businesses did not adapt their pricing. However recently they did, with a vengeance. Case in point are fine dining establishments: 30K used to be the high end, now we are easily over 50/60 with some even venturing into 100K for an omakase offering.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

A plain Derby in Chestnut Brown Box Calf, the Lartigue by Efe Laborde. I love the leather, I prefer a uniform colour to any patina.

View attachment 2289629 View attachment 2289631 View attachment 2289633 View attachment 2289635

A really nice shoe, but would have much preferred it without the close cut bevelled waist. Sometimes those features suit the shoe, but other times it doesn't.

 

[schteekay]

Kataoka Ken was actually the person I was thinking of that made me think the days of those prices must be long gone since his prices have come up so much. Sounds like I'll end up sticking with Maftei, though I worry based on age he can't have that many years left.

What about the Montegranaro based shoemakers? Chiappini or Bruschi for example.

 

[DorianGreen]

A really nice shoe, but would have much preferred it without the close cut bevelled waist. Sometimes those features suit the shoe, but other times it doesn't.

I see your point and agree that some features or designs don't suit every shoe.

However it looks like a perfect waist on this elegant Derby.

 

[DorianGreen]

An awesome boot by Hiro Yanagimachi.

 

[DorianGreen]

A smart monk strap shoe by Spigola.