The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[Hardtmuth]

I believe there might have been some miscommunication between the two of you.

Loafers frequency have an 'apron' or a 'lake', a row of stitching that runs around the vamp of the shoe. The stitching might be structural (joining two pieces of leather) or it might just be decorative (raising a 'string' that marks the vamp). Also 'Norwegian-style' lace-up shoes (EG's 'Dover' being the best known shoe in that style. This type of seams are usually (at least in better footwear) done by hand. Also 'stay stitches', which reinforce the uppers at points of stress, are often placed by hand. Apart from those decorative seams, other seams (along the top line, closing the heal, to either side of a row of broguing are done with a sewing machine.

Competition entries might occasionally have all handstitched uppers, like Daniel Wegan's winning entry to the World Champion ship in 2019. But these were competition shoes and thus an exception to standard ways shoe uppers are made.

Yes even the apron on a cheap pair of loafers is often stitched by hand. This is not what we were talking about. On my Lobbs there is a blind stitch that will be done by hand.

I was told the entire upper is hand-stitched on all GG bespoke boots and shoes. Anyway, I will email the sales associate from GG and see if he still makes this claim.

The norwegian stitch is a welt stitch which will be done by hand. The outsole stitch is done by machine and is likely what would be considered a rapid stitch.

Shoe construction is complicated but this matter of hand-stitching uppers really should not be at all.

 

[jonathanS]

It seems like you’re confusing upper closing and outsole stitching.

I suspect this is the issue / miscommunication as well. I believe gaziano hand welts their bespoke line.

 

[Hardtmuth]

I suspect this is the issue / miscommunication as well. I believe gaziano hand welts their bespoke line.

This may be but it is going to have to be a misunderstanding on the salesman's side because I made no mention of the welt, I already knew their shoes were hand-welted. I specifically asked about the uppers and he literally showed me the stitching on the uppers of two different shoes.

In retrospect I should have really examined the back side of the stitching because from the front it can be impossible to tell a neat hand-stitch from a machine sewn stitch. It all depends on the shape of the pricking iron.

 

[Texasmade]

This may be but it is going to have to be a misunderstanding on the salesman's side because I made no mention of the welt, I already knew their shoes were hand-welted. I specifically asked about the uppers and he literally showed me the stitching on the uppers of two different shoes.

In retrospect I should have really examined the back side of the stitching because from the front it can be impossible to tell a neat hand-stitch from a machine sewn stitch. It all depends on the shape of the pricking iron.

Most likely misunderstanding on his part. Most of us here are enthusiasts and know our stuff decently well. Salesman probably just did some high level training and was sent out to sell.

 

[DorianGreen]

A lovely shade of brown on this wholecut split toe Derby by Canons.

 

[jazznpool]

I started the process with Jobb Lobb LTD but I am now having some doubts.

How many fittings are required for true bespoke shoes?

John Lobb LTD says they can typically do it in one fitting. Girling Gaziano says it requires multiple. John Lobb LTD will not hand stitch the upper where Girling Gaziano does the entire upper by hand.

I wish you the best of luck with your JLL bespoke boots. Please let us know how your boots fit you nicely. Although I have asked others in the business, I still don’t understand how JLL goes from measuring to lastmaking to making completed shoes or boots without fitting shoes or fittings with good success. My first fitting shoes with two makers have both required a remake/ refitting.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

A seamless back Oxford by Perticone.

View attachment 2241345

These look fantastic. I'm confident that they'd look as good in person as in the picture.

 

[DorianGreen]

Bespoke 3/4 Brogue Oxford in light tan calf by Emiko Matsuda.

 

[DorianGreen]

Chukka boots by Perticone in Lama Nubuk.

 

[DorianGreen]

New bespoke sample by Perticone, I love the shape.

 

[marlinspike]

I need another pair of black shoes (I just have a pair of wholecuts at the moment). I find it hard to be interesting black shoes, or to think of black shoes as anything other than wholecuts or cap toe oxfords, so does anybody have any inspiration for what I should ask for I would welcome it.

 

[Mghart]

I need another pair of black shoes (I just have a pair of wholecuts at the moment). I find it hard to be interesting black shoes, or to think of black shoes as anything other than wholecuts or cap toe oxfords, so does anybody have any inspiration for what I should ask for I would welcome it.

I'm a big fan of this 30's style of blucher, and in brown/black I think they're very versatile from semi-dressy to casual. I think I recall Nicholas Templeman posting on his IG a similar style but with a skin stitch on the apron and a cats paw heel that looked really exceptional.

 

[DorianGreen]

I need another pair of black shoes (I just have a pair of wholecuts at the moment). I find it hard to be interesting black shoes, or to think of black shoes as anything other than wholecuts or cap toe oxfords, so does anybody have any inspiration for what I should ask for I would welcome it.

The classic black shoe par excellence is obviously the cap toe Oxford.

Nothing will prevent you though to go for a distinctive loafer like this.

 

[Texasmade]

I need another pair of black shoes (I just have a pair of wholecuts at the moment). I find it hard to be interesting black shoes, or to think of black shoes as anything other than wholecuts or cap toe oxfords, so does anybody have any inspiration for what I should ask for I would welcome it.

Corthay Arca or similar style in black.

 

[marlinspike]

The classic black shoe par excellence is obviously the cap toe Oxford.

Nothing will prevent you though to go for a distinctive loafer like this.

He's made me a couple of loafers, and while the fit is there they just don't work for me in terms of being able to go a whole day in loafers - I have a rigid flat feet and large accessory naviculars, and I need more support than a loafer can offer.