The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[JohnMRobie]

Foo is 5'7.5"? I thought he is shorter than that I'm barely 5'7"...

I have no idea it was just a joke about @Texasmade being short despite his perfect physique

 

[jonathanS]

Is foo the one Ambrosi called a hobbit?

 

[DorianGreen]

Three-eyelet Derby in Brick Brown Suede by Emiko Matsuda.

 

[comrade]

Three-eyelet Derby in Brick Brown Suede by Emiko Matsuda.

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Those are absolutely gorgeous !!

 

[galileo]

I think this depends on a lot of factors, it has to do with internal muscles in your foot that stretch over time or something like that. Stretch is not the right word, they get looser, so your arche starts to drop and make your foot larger.
For some that can happen at 40 for others it can happen later in life, my dad still wears his shoes that he bought in his twenties, he is already in his mid fifties. I have a feeling I will not be so lucky.
But this is another reason not to go for bespoke... but let's face it it's the same for bespoke tailoring. Nobody stays the same weight unless you smoke a ton of cigarettes/pipe, like the Duke of Windsor who famously stayed the same size for over 5 decades.

And prolonged activities. Started to make first bespoke shoe in around 10 years ago, then running on the streets covering protests 5 years ago, some of our feet elongated or grown wider. Right now, only the Ugolini Oxford still fits well, Bolero's Single Monk could only worn bare feet.

 

[DorianGreen]

A seamless back Oxford by Perticone.

 

[Hardtmuth]

I started the process with Jobb Lobb LTD but I am now having some doubts.

How many fittings are required for true bespoke shoes?

John Lobb LTD says they can typically do it in one fitting. Girling Gaziano says it requires multiple. John Lobb LTD will not hand stitch the upper where Girling Gaziano does the entire upper by hand.

 

[clee1982]

Aren’t they very different style? It’s not like you’re spec out some gaming desktop

 

[Hardtmuth]

Aren’t they very different style? It’s not like you’re spec out some gaming desktop

No they are very similar style. I like simple plain designs with similar shapes. I am not doing any wild finishing stuff or exotic shapes.

 

[clee1982]

so not a typical very sharp looking Gaziano then?

Like they can all be black Oxford but in my head the default GG last would be much sharper

 

[Hardtmuth]

so not a typical very sharp looking Gaziano then?

Like they can all be black Oxford but in my head the default GG last would be much sharper

I am doing a round toe boot. Not something as pointy and sharp as the typical GG chisel. My question is really about the process, quality and "value" between these two brands.

 

[tuna roll]

Three-eyelet Derby in Brick Brown Suede by Emiko Matsuda.

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Love her designs. Also the shape / lasts looks rather comfortable.

 

[JohnMRobie]

John Lobb LTD will not hand stitch the upper where Girling Gaziano does the entire upper by hand.

who told you that G&G does closing by hand?

 

[Hardtmuth]

who told you that G&G does closing by hand?

Michael Symons was the sales associate I met with at their Savile Row shop and he told me the entire upper was hand stitched. He did show me an example of an extremely fine stitch that had to be done on machine but was only on an accent of a certain style of loafer.

I was speaking to him about their full bespoke but he was pushing me towards their semi-bespoke which also had a fully hand-stitched upper.

 

[epsilon22]

I was under the impression that most bespoke makers (in the UK and Japan at least) would machine stitch the uppers by default. They can probably do hand stitching on the uppers for an upcharge.