The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[JohnMRobie]

The pair he made for Jesper at Shoegazing look really nice, if you have access to their location it might be worth checking out. Let us know how it goes!

Yeah I’ve seen plenty of pictures but at this point any maker I’m considering makes pretty shoes. Much more interest in how they are as fitters and unlike the other makers I’ve tried I don’t have friends who have used them who can share that insight so I figured I’d ask here.

 

[L.deJong]

@L.deJong have you tried Edward Green? They are able to accomodate diferent foot sizes in MTO. I have the same issue - my left foot is half size larger than the right one.

I'm just not sure about the instep issues, but there's a possibility one of their lasts fit you well in this sense.

I have a call tomorrow with Dennis from The Hand. They also offer mto from Edward Green. So I will also consider them, really depends on their arch support whether this is a possibility. I think it could work, but will probably have to try them on first.

 

[DorianGreen]

A lovely round last and a beautiful leather on this cap toe oxford by Seiji McCarthy.

 

[DorianGreen]

A five tie derby with Norwegian construction, hand stiitched apron and commando sole by Canons.

A lovely shoe, but I wonder if the stitching isn't too course.

Maybe some maker could offer an opinion/insight.

 

[w.efelaborde]

A lovely shoe, but I wonder if the stitching isn't too course.

Maybe some maker could offer an opinion/insight.

No this isn't too coarse... It looks like the standard 1/4 inch stitch required for this type of construction.
Fine work would be 3/16 inch stitch.
The difficulty with Norwegian construction is obtaining a good consistent line on the range (the line going from heel to toe), sitting consistently parallel to the sole. This has been successfully achieved here.
If I were being picky, the only remark would be that some of the stitches appear a different length to others. This is usually due to the maker's stitch technique.

Overall, solid clean work for a functional shoe (ie not display work). 👍🏻

 

[DorianGreen]

No this isn't too coarse... It looks like the standard 1/4 inch stitch required for this type of construction.
Fine work would be 3/16 inch stitch.
The difficulty with Norwegian construction is obtaining a good consistent line on the range (the line going from heel to toe), sitting consistently parallel to the sole. This has been successfully achieved here.
If I were being picky, the only remark would be that some of the stitches appear a different length to others. This is usually due to the maker's stitch technique.

Overall, solid clean work for a functional shoe (ie not display work). 👍🏻

Yes, I meant this aspect with too coarse, sorry if I chose the wrong word.

 

[epsilon22]

Stitching looks a bit uneven, but I've never had shoes with Norwegian welt stitching so maybe that's normal?

 

[jazznpool]

A five tie derby with Norwegian construction, hand stiitched apron and commando sole by Canons.

View attachment 2224163 View attachment 2224165 View attachment 2224167


A lovely shoe, but I wonder if the stitching isn't too course.

Maybe some maker could offer an opinion/insight.

Interesting hybrid type shoe which could work well for someone like a horse trainer or country walker. I like the caramel/ toffee color of the smooth leather.

 

[bengal-stripe]

The difficulty with Norwegian construction is obtaining a good consistent line on the range (the line going from heel to toe), sitting consistently parallel to the sole.

Another difficulty is the final stitch. Once you've gone all the way round the shoe you might find the space for the final stitch is either too short or too long. Which of course will not be a problem if you only stich from (heel) breast-to-breast, as many Italian shoemakers will do. Norwegian construction has become a rare beast in English shoemaking.

For those who haven't had enough, here is another Norwegian constructed shoe (Chelsea boot) made by an English outworker. The English way is quite different from the heavily braided seams the Italians prefer.

 

[w.efelaborde]

Stitching looks a bit uneven, but I've never had shoes with Norwegian welt stitching so maybe that's normal?

In the frame of things, I don't think this would have ever mattered pre-social media dissection era.

But to give the answer, it all comes down to the direction in which the maker has welted the shoe and the stitching technique.
2 things:

If you compare the first work with the second shared by @bengalstripe -
the first maker has stitched from inside out, and the stitches widen in the convex curves like the heel and tighten in the concave zones like the waist.
In the second work, the maker has marked each point with dividers and stitched from outside in, obtaining identical stitching all the way round.

The second element is remaining consistent with a left and right thread. When stitching Norwegian, every single stitch must respect the same order: if you start with the right hand thread going in first and then left crossing through, that will have to be the case at every single subsequent stitch (without exception! or you'll get lined up for the firing squad on styleforum). Something which is evidently known in the second job but not necessarily the first.

These are the kind of small technicalities which are in essence being discussed here..

 

[florent]

Thank you @w.efelaborde for sharing your knowledge!
While we're on the subject, would you (or someone else) know how JM Weston do their triangle shaped norwergian stitches? I've never seen this style from any other maker.

(sorry, not bespoke but still handmade)

 

[w.efelaborde]

Thank you @w.efelaborde for sharing your knowledge!
While we're on the subject, would you (or someone else) know how JM Weston do their triangle shaped norwergian stitches? I've never seen this style from any other maker.

(sorry, not bespoke but still handmade)

I have to admit I've always wondered and admired that stitch.

In truth I don't know but I suspect it's a very wide diamond point awl going in at diagonal angle - and a seriously huge cord count for the thread, maybe a 10 or 12 cord thread instead of the usual 6 or 7..
Just my theory

 

[florent]

I have to admit I've always wondered and admired that stitch.

In truth I don't know but I suspect it's a very wide diamond point awl going in at diagonal angle - and a seriously huge cord count for the thread, maybe a 10 or 12 cord thread instead of the usual 6 or 7..
Just my theory

Thank you! In this video the maker seems to give some of the shape with his finger, but still very mysterious...

 

[epsilon22]

In the frame of things, I don't think this would have ever mattered pre-social media dissection era.

But to give the answer, it all comes down to the direction in which the maker has welted the shoe and the stitching technique.
2 things:

If you compare the first work with the second shared by @bengalstripe -
the first maker has stitched from inside out, and the stitches widen in the convex curves like the heel and tighten in the concave zones like the waist.
In the second work, the maker has marked each point with dividers and stitched from outside in, obtaining identical stitching all the way round.

The second element is remaining consistent with a left and right thread. When stitching Norwegian, every single stitch must respect the same order: if you start with the right hand thread going in first and then left crossing through, that will have to be the case at every single subsequent stitch (without exception! or you'll get lined up for the firing squad on styleforum). Something which is evidently known in the second job but not necessarily the first.

These are the kind of small technicalities which are in essence being discussed here..

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Perhaps you are right, prior to the social media, most people would just put those shoes on their feet and start walking out. But now that posting high resolution pictures online seems to be the norm, I can't help but feel that those uneven stitching look a bit sloppy.

 

[DorianGreen]

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Perhaps you are right, prior to the social media, most people would just put those shoes on their feet and start walking out. But now that posting high resolution pictures online seems to be the norm, I can't help but feel that those uneven stitching look a bit sloppy.

My exact feeling: if I go bespoke, I expect the most accurate execution, besides excellence in materials and construction. I wouldn't be happy with those shoes, as much as I like style and leather.