The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[Lovable Brogue]

This is also what it's like buying Cleverley bespoke shoes first-hand, not second-hand.

Very gratifying to get the full bespoke experience at a mere fraction of the price then.

 

[corpseposeur]

So Francis Waplinger's shop is quite near me. Having a bespoke shoemaker nearby is nice and I would like to support local craftspeople. I am planning on visiting later this week. Has anyone here had any experience with him?

According to his website, his MTO starts at $2400. This is quite steep compared to some of the other MTO handmade options options I was considering are about half or a quarter as much like Cleverly's Anthony Cleverley line., Yeossal, and Acme Shoemaker; but maybe this is worthwhile for a handmade shoes? I don't really know much about this but I am trying to find a way to justify it.

The biggest advantage FW has for me is proximity and what I hope will be a good service.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

So Francis Waplinger's shop is quite near me. Having a bespoke shoemaker nearby is nice and I would like to support local craftspeople. I am planning on visiting later this week. Has anyone here had any experience with him?

According to his website, his MTO starts at $2400. This is quite steep compared to some of the other MTO handmade options options I was considering are about half or a quarter as much like Cleverly's Anthony Cleverley line., Yeossal, and Acme Shoemaker; but maybe this is worthwhile for a handmade shoes? I don't really know much about this but I am trying to find a way to justify it.

The biggest advantage FW has for me is proximity and what I hope will be a good service.

For the record, Anthony Cleverley is factory-made shoes, Goodyear welted with machine made sole stitching. Yeossal hand welted but machine-made sole stitch (apart from waist).

 

[clee1982]

So Francis Waplinger's shop is quite near me. Having a bespoke shoemaker nearby is nice and I would like to support local craftspeople. I am planning on visiting later this week. Has anyone here had any experience with him?

According to his website, his MTO starts at $2400. This is quite steep compared to some of the other MTO handmade options options I was considering are about half or a quarter as much like Cleverly's Anthony Cleverley line., Yeossal, and Acme Shoemaker; but maybe this is worthwhile for a handmade shoes? I don't really know much about this but I am trying to find a way to justify it.

The biggest advantage FW has for me is proximity and what I hope will be a good service.

take a look at his IG first, does his shoe even speak to you, that would be my first decision point (also what you have in mind vs his aesthetic)

 

[corpseposeur]

For the record, Anthony Cleverley is factory-made shoes, Goodyear welted with machine made sole stitching. Yeossal hand welted but machine-made sole stitch (apart from waist).

This is different than what I was told during the Cleverley trunk show; as it was said to be handmade and "semi-bespoke". Perhaps I misunderstood.

The Yeossal shoes are fine for me, although they do have an option to hand-stitch the soles at an added cost.

take a look at his IG first, does his shoe even speak to you, that would be my first decision point (also what you have in mind vs his aesthetic)

The examples he's shown on the IG are pretty nice, less of the chisel style and more of a rounded toe box...but I would ask to see some samples. I'm looking for something that's pretty classic so probably like a well shaped Adelaide or Balmoral style oxford. I think that's in his wheelhouse.

 

[clee1982]

In that case I think going local is worth it just for the ease and you can get fit right easier, though I never knew what MTO truly mean, last modification with some fixed pattern?

 

[j ingevaldsson]

This is different than what I was told during the Cleverley trunk show; as it was said to be handmade and "semi-bespoke". Perhaps I misunderstood.

The Yeossal shoes are fine for me, although they do have an option to hand-stitch the soles at an added cost.



The examples he's shown on the IG are pretty nice, less of the chisel style and more of a rounded toe box...but I would ask to see some samples. I'm looking for something that's pretty classic so probably like a well shaped Adelaide or Balmoral style oxford. I think that's in his wheelhouse.

Well, Cleverley lied about Anthony Cleverley being hand welted when it was launched, but it was obviously exposed quickly, and they've also lied about making their Kingsman collection in their London workshop, so it's not a surprise if they keep lying in direct meetings with customers even if they don't dare to do it publicly online in the same way anymore. The way they use "semi bespoke" for AC is just marketing lingo as well. It's a shame, cause it's really nice shoes IMO, made in the Edward Green factory, the way they unnecessarily lie about their stuff just puts a bad taste around it all.

 

[dieworkwear]

I think the thing to remember is that the ready-to-wear line was created to give their bespoke service prestige. It is their halo offering.

 

[corpseposeur]

Well, Cleverley lied about Anthony Cleverley being hand welted when it was launched, but it was obviously exposed quickly, and they've also lied about making their Kingsman collection in their London workshop, so it's not a surprise if they keep lying in direct meetings with customers even if they don't dare to do it publicly online in the same way anymore. The way they use "semi bespoke" for AC is just marketing lingo as well. It's a shame, cause it's really nice shoes IMO, made in the Edward Green factory, the way they unnecessarily lie about their stuff just puts a bad taste around it all.

This is very helpful insight and really helps with decision making. Thank you. Edward Green actually has a bit more to offer in terms of different styles, and I will take a look at them as well. Fortunately, Leffot in NYC carries them locally.

I think really my main issue is the sizing to be right. Ideally I would like a well sculpted waist. Handlasted is nice as it seems to help achieve a nicer shape.

I heard back from some other options and Yeossal doesn't offer odd sizing. Acme does, but as they're in China, I feel like a lot of the in-person benefit can get lost. Meccariello is another option at a great price but their sizing is a bit unusual as they're not quite a standard UK
.
Paul Sargent Shoes made me a MTO for an odd sized pair of Chelsea boots and while they don't have some of the superfine details for a Goodyear welted shoe, but they also have a very slim waist and a nice last.

I'm looking forward to Francis Waplinger and maybe he can convince me that a MTO hand lasted pair is worth it. Otherwise I might go look at options from Edward Green or Paul Sargent.

 

[clee1982]

If RTW fit you I wouldn’t go bespoke first, what’s your px range again?

 

[Manuel]

Hi everyone, I have opened this channel where I will be uploading information about custom footwear and normal footwear using traditional and modern techniques.
Right now I have only uploaded something for the German community that was very interested in seeing how I work in special footwear, that is not the idea but it has to be done.
We will see interesting things shortly. All the best.
Manuel

 

[clee1982]

you make both shoes and instrument for living or shoe is more for hobby (or vice versa)

 

[Manuel]

you make both shoes and instrument for living or shoe is more for hobby (or vice versa)

Not only do I do that, I do many more things, it's more fun than dedicating myself to just one thing ....... and if I get bored of everything ....... I start playing the guitar hahaha

Here you can see other very interesting things, not only instruments, I also really like working with metal and transforming anything ...... look at these mini wood luthier planes......



Look here, there are many pictures too, a bit of everything.
https://www.instagram.com/manuel.b50/?hl=es

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Well, Cleverley lied about Anthony Cleverley being hand welted when it was launched, but it was obviously exposed quickly, and they've also lied about making their Kingsman collection in their London workshop, so it's not a surprise if they keep lying in direct meetings with customers even if they don't dare to do it publicly online in the same way anymore. The way they use "semi bespoke" for AC is just marketing lingo as well. It's a shame, cause it's really nice shoes IMO, made in the Edward Green factory, the way they unnecessarily lie about their stuff just puts a bad taste around it all.

Yes Cleverley do lie about them being hand welted.
AC made by E.G to lower standard than E.G,
they skip quality steps to make the AC line more profitable.
Insider say that.

Edward Green also tell mistruths saying the top draw is hand welted when it is not.

Many english shoe company tell lies because they know man gullible and not understand shoes.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

This is also what it's like buying Cleverley bespoke shoes first-hand, not second-hand.

it make me think that maybe they do outsource some of the last making,
hence the poor fit.
Like you once say,
you know men who got measured by Cleverley last maker and still got bad fit.
Maybe they got busy and outsourced?
Cleverley have the skill to do good fit,
so something not right.