The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[Patrick1053]

Pics or it didn’t happen

Incidentally, you never mentioned how yours fit. Better, the same, or worse than your RTW footwear?

Here are some pictures. I'll post some quick snaps of them on my feet later. Regarding how they fit. The fit is good, definitely not perfect, but definitely better than any RTW shoes I have. I want to break them in some before I make a final assessment on the fit.

I did have the toe shape modified, so it is not of the 3 generic ones offered on their website. I'm very happy with how the toe shape turned out.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Here are some pictures. I'll post some quick snaps of them on my feet later. Regarding how they fit. The fit is good, definitely not perfect, but definitely better than any RTW shoes I have. I want to break them in some before I make a final assessment on the fit.

I did have the toe shape modified, so it is not of the 3 generic ones offered on their website. I'm very happy with how the toe shape turned out. View attachment 1608601 View attachment 1608602 View attachment 1608603 View attachment 1608605 View attachment 1608606

Your results, thus far, sound typical of a successful commission. Successful since they fit better than your RTW. Fair to assume that you should expect an improved fitting when upgrading to Bespoke, and you (at the very least) have received.

That "definitely not perfect" fit is realistically what one can expect from an individual's first commission. Progressive fit improvements should subsequently follow.

What do you think can be improved? Excess material across the vamp? Instep issue?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Here are some pictures. I'll post some quick snaps of them on my feet later. Regarding how they fit. The fit is good, definitely not perfect, but definitely better than any RTW shoes I have. I want to break them in some before I make a final assessment on the fit.

I did have the toe shape modified, so it is not of the 3 generic ones offered on their website. I'm very happy with how the toe shape turned out. View attachment 1608601 View attachment 1608602 View attachment 1608603 View attachment 1608605 View attachment 1608606

Look great. If I recall, you have relatively difficult to fit feet don’t you? Did they manage to accommodate your typical problem areas?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

So how tight do you like the arch support to be? I don't have any bespoke yet, but have some Saint Crispin's with an elongated heel cap. There is some slight space between my arch and the heel cap, though. I imagine in good bespoke it's supposed to fit tighter so that it completely follows the curve of the arch, with little space between the heel cap and arch? How much pressure do you feel from the elongated heel cap on the arch?

Also, in terms of heel fit, there is absolutely no heel slip, but there is some space between the bottom of my heel and the bottom of the heel cap. As in, the heel cap is wider at the bottom, then curves in nicely to hug the top of my heel. That is completely fine by me. In good bespoke, though, does the heel cap completely hug the heel, with no space between the heel and the heel cap at the bottom? If that makes sense...

As you mentioned, and provided this is verbalized to the maker, the space can be reduced between the arch and heel cap. Well, I should state I have seen improvements in that area when I pointed it out. I'd add that communication is the most critical aspect of a successful commission. A good maker can spot visible inconsistencies, but what he/she can't see you must point out.

In terms of the tightness level, I'll attempt to provide an example from another universal process we would have all experienced. The tightness I prefer is equivalent to that initial feeling one gets when a doctor places a blood pressure cuff on the arm. It's quite fitted but not to constriction, so the shoe shouldn't be moving around like the cuff doesn't move around.

I would say that desired level of tightness is what can be improved upon, along with reductions on say the vamp or tightening within the top line, reductions around ball of the foot etc.

The heel cap is the other problem I have encountered. The space of the base of the heel can be reduced, but again you have to verbalize that.
Most of the time it has been improved to my satisfaction.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Here are some pictures. I'll post some quick snaps of them on my feet later. Regarding how they fit. The fit is good, definitely not perfect, but definitely better than any RTW shoes I have. I want to break them in some before I make a final assessment on the fit.

I did have the toe shape modified, so it is not of the 3 generic ones offered on their website. I'm very happy with how the toe shape turned out. View attachment 1608601 View attachment 1608602 View attachment 1608603 View attachment 1608605 View attachment 1608606

I assume, since they are from Wayman, that the whole process was done remote? I do not think you can have the same expectations and demand of a "perfect fit" when doing things remote, even if you have a fitting shoe. That's why I prefer to not refer to remote orders as just "bespoke", since it takes away one very important aspect of real full bespoke orders, and instead call it "remote bespoke" or something like that. You can end up with great results anyway, but as said, shouldn't expect and demand it in the same way as when doing a traditional order where you get measured and fitted by the lastmaker.

Anyway, the shoes looks really good, and think it sounds like you've had a successful "remote bespoke" order!

 

[JohnMRobie]

First fitting - Making a couple small modifications before the next fitting

 

[Patrick1053]

I assume, since they are from Wayman, that the whole process was done remote? I do not think you can have the same expectations and demand of a "perfect fit" when doing things remote, even if you have a fitting shoe. That's why I prefer to not refer to remote orders as just "bespoke", since it takes away one very important aspect of real full bespoke orders, and instead call it "remote bespoke" or something like that. You can end up with great results anyway, but as said, shouldn't expect and demand it in the same way as when doing a traditional order where you get measured and fitted by the lastmaker.

Anyway, the shoes looks really good, and think it sounds like you've had a successful "remote bespoke" order!

You are correct. This was all done remotely. With that fact in mind, I am very satisfied with the fit.

I agree. in my first post about these shoes, I said they were "mostly bespoke" and mentioned where they are from.

 

[nub915]

I ordered from Wayman bespoke also especially given the fact that the bespoke makers are not really traveling to the US right now.

 

[Encore]

Re-post from AM thread, a semi-bespoke order from AM.
The order was placed online, I took the measurement myself (based on AM's instruction) and used 2 test shoes to correct the fit. The final result is okay but still places to improve I guess

Spoiler: Fit

 

[thesartorialistbanker]

My full brogues from Yohei Fukuda

 

[thesartorialistbanker]

Some more details by Yohei Fukuda

 

[marlinspike]

Fukuda's stuff is always so perfect.

 

[thesartorialistbanker]

Fukuda's stuff is always so perfect.

Thank you!

 

[marlinspike]

Thank you!

Do you know if that is a crust that he then hand finished to look like that, or is that some particular leather? I keep coming back to this picture, I love them.

 

[Tamago]

Second fit with Okuyama Masaru.
Tore the trial shoes apart to actually touch and feel the adjustments going to make after my comment.