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j ingevaldsson

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Lovely shoes - as far as I understand these are relasted from an earlier pair that had too much volume across the vamp when they were made at GG by Daniel - Interested to hear more about this - I mean the fitting and relasting - how much changes can be made to a shoe? I also read that the final trees get made after using the shoes for a while - a very sensible idea given that small fitting issues become evident after you wear the shoes for a while.
It wasn't really too much volume over the vamp, I have slight hallux valgus issues on right foot, and here he had put a bit too much volume at the back of the inner ball. Since the heel stiffener goes almost all the way up to the joint, it became a small gap between the stiffener and the inner ball, which created an ugly crease.

As long as there's no major changes to volume or length I believe there would be no problem relasting. If size of the last would grow too much you would have no lasting allowance left on the upper, and if it would be decreased the pattern could become off. But otherwise shape changes aren't an issue really, leather is a living material and upper leather is soft, so you can reshape that a lot if you would need (very rare any major changes would be needed though, if it's not a complete mess the first shoe).

Yeah this way the shoe trees sort of fit the shoes even better than the last, and instead of returning any small differences to its original state after wear it continues on the natural shape your feet has given the shoes. It only works when using a real experienced shoe tree maker like Hervé Brunelle though. Rarely do that much of a difference, but it never makes things less good.
 

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Photo as promised. I don't do a lot of taking or posting of photos. If you want another view, let me know and I'll give it a shot. These are (pre Cleverley) Poulsen, Skone & Co. shoes from the 80's & 90's. And please remember ... we didn't have Style Forum to spur us to greatness. Many of us were working blindly with the help of a father, uncle, or friend. Things were fairly plain Jane.

Talking with my 97yo father this morning, he doesn't remember me being a AAA ... but a AA. But I'm definitely a B/C now. Interestingly they have not gotten longer. I just looked at the oldest pair RTW shoes I have and they are some Peal's in a 9A. I tried to slip on one of the loafers this morning and it was torture. I got it on but it was uncomfortable

My father in his younger days was a B/C in the same length. I'm about to have some of his better shoes resoled and refinished to use myself.

Looking back I still recall meeting George Glasgow for the first time. As we were shaking hands ... for the briefest "millisecond" his eyes darted downward and he asked "Peal's?"


IMG_4590 (1).jpg
 
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dieworkwear

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Photo as promised. I don't do a lot of taking or posting of photos. If you want another view, let me know and I'll give it a shot. These are (pre Cleverley) Poulsen, Skone & Co. shoes from the 80's & 90's. And please remember ... we didn't have Style Forum to spur us to greatness. Many of us were working blindly with the help of a father, uncle, or friend. Things were fairly plain Jane.

Talking with my 97yo father this morning, he doesn't remember me being a AAA ... but a AA. But I'm definitely a B/C now. Interestingly they have not gotten longer. I just looked at the oldest pair RTW shoes I have and they are some Peal's in a 9A. I tried to slip on one of the loafers this morning and it was torture. I got it on but it was uncomfortable

My father in his younger days was a B/C in the same length. I'm about to have some of his better shoes resoled and refinished to use myself.

Looking back I still recall meeting George Glasgow for the first time. As we were shaking hands ... for the briefest "millisecond" his eyes darted downward and he asked "Peal's?"


View attachment 1569091
Wow, those are great. I love all three pairs.

Curious, among the bespoke shoes you own, which did you wear the most? Would it be possible to take a photo of them? I'm curious about the styles you found most useful, their design elements, and the leathers.
 

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Wow, those are great. I love all three pairs.

Curious, among the bespoke shoes you own, which did you wear the most? Would it be possible to take a photo of them? I'm curious about the styles you found most useful, their design elements, and the leathers.
I'm fairly casual and have a strong preference for sport coats. In town I was -- and continue to be -- more likely to be found in loafers much as the ones pictured. A split toe was my favorite, but I no longer have those. If I wear lace-ups they are typically a Derby. At the house -- we live in the country -- I'm more often found in boots. Interestingly I never had boots made bespoke ... only shoes. As I have outgrown most of my bespoke shoes I have few around. The one's I do have I keep only for sentimental reasons.

In addition to Cleverley, I used Maxwell for a while. I tried Lobb (St. James). Ultimately I preferred Cleverley. In all, I'm guessing I had no more than 12 to 15 pairs made up ... covering the basics. ** The only black pair I had made were Oxfords. Hey, one must dress for a funeral ... and serving as a verger in the Episcopal Church. I may still have those (I know I have a photo) but they too do NOT fit. There were also bespoke oxfords in brown, a couple of pairs of Derby shoes in browns, and a good number of loafers (browns and tans). The split toe loafer is my favorite shoe. I thought I kept a pair but I don't see them. I do recall sending the Derby shoes back for resoling & refinishing. That was a rather pricy affair when compared to American "recrafting" services. But they looked great.

If my feet stabilize, I would consider going back to bespoke. Then again, the cost for fine bespoke today is rather frightening. At the time I started having shoes made, the prices were in the hundreds -- mid to high hundreds -- but nothing like they are now ... not even adjusted for inflation.

I've considered trying a Hong Kong maker. Some of them have very affordable prices (from what I read). I'd like to see the work up close. Post COVID I may fly over and see what they can offer. I think I'd be more adventurous given their pricing.

** I am fine with a good fitting pair of readymade shoes: Edward Green, Weston (loafers and split toe Derby), Vass. I like that heavy country look of a Budapest shoe. That heavy look has even taken me to Trickers.
 
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My style is a "few" decades behind the times:
Collage01.JPG
OliveCombination.JPG
 
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marlinspike

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I've considered trying a Hong Kong maker. Some of them have very affordable prices (from what I read). I'd like to see the work up close. Post COVID I may fly over and see what they can offer. I think I'd be more adventurous given their pricing.

** I am fine with a good fitting pair of readymade shoes: Edward Green, Weston (loafers and split toe Derby), Vass. I like that heavy country look of a Budapest shoe. That heavy look has even taken me to Trickers.
If you like a budapest shoe and are skiddish of modern bespoke prices, maftei.at is around 1000 euro. I don't know if you've been in this thread long enough for that to be repetitive information for you. His assistant will talk you through measuring yourself on the phone and send test shoes given the lack of ability to travel during covid.
 

dieworkwear

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I'm fairly casual and have a strong preference for sport coats. In town I was -- and continue to be -- more likely to be found in loafers much as the one's pictured. A split toe was my favorite, but I no longer have those. If I wear lace-ups they are typically a Derby. At the house -- we live in the country -- I'm more often found in boots. Interestingly I never had boots made bespoke ... only shoes. As I have outgrown most of my bespoke shoes I have few around. The one's I do have I keep only for sentimental reasons.

In addition to Cleverley, I used Maxwell for a while. I tried Lobb (St. James). Ultimately I preferred Cleverley. In all, I'm guessing I had no more than 12 to 15 pairs made up ... covering the basics. ** The only black pair I had made were Oxfords. Hey, one must dress for a funeral ... and serving as a verger in the Episcopal Church. I may still have those (I know I have a photo) but they too do NOT fit. Also bespoke oxfords in brown, a couple of pairs of Derby shoes in browns, and a good number of loafers (browns and tans). The split toe loafer is my favorite shoe. I thought I kept a pair but I don't see them. I do recall sending the Derby shoes back for resoling & refinishing. That was a rather pricy affair when compared to American "recrafting" services. But they looked great.

If my feet stabilize, I would consider going back to bespoke. Then again, the cost for fine bespoke today is rather frightening. At the time I started having shoes made, the prices were in the hundreds -- mid to high hundreds -- but nothing like they are now ... not even adjusted for inflation.

I've considered trying a Hong Kong maker. Some of them have very affordable prices (from what I read). I'd like to see the work up close. Post COVID I may fly over and see what they can offer. I think I'd be more adventurous given their pricing.

** I am fine with a good fitting pair of readymade shoes: Edward Green, Weston (loafers and split toe Derby), Vass. I like that heavy country look of a Budapest shoe. That heavy look has even taken me to Trickers.
I'd be curious to see what your split toes look like, if you come across them later.

I also mostly wear sport coats, split toes, and loafers. I don't wear formal suits very often, and thus don't have much use for oxfords. I find I mostly gravitate towards the semi-casual side of things.

Who is the Hong Kong maker?
 

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I'd be curious to see what your split toes look like, if you come across them later.
If I find them I'll certainly post. It's possible they are at the house in San Diego. During COVID we've stayed here in Washington State as we have more room to move around ... inside and outside ... especially outside.

I also mostly wear sport coats, split toes, and loafers. I don't wear formal suits very often, and thus don't have much use for oxfords. I find I mostly gravitate towards the semi-casual side of things.
We are very similar here.

Who is the Hong Kong maker?
I have not yet done extensive research on Hong Kong. The two I have in my notes seems to be opposite extremes. Kow Hoo runs about $2500US. Shoe Artistry runs about $500US (for the first pair, less after). Prior to now I've had tailored clothing made in Hong Kong (mostly trousers) ... but not shoes. Well, I did try Maylin back in the 80's. I left a pair of Aldens with them and what I got back looked like a pair of lightweight Gucci loafers. There was no GYW.

If you like a budapest shoe and are skiddish of modern bespoke prices, maftei.at is around 1000 euro.
That is much appreciated information! Assuming restrictions are lifted and COVID has someone behind us I have plans to be in Budapest later this year or early next year.

Oh wait ... just pulled them up and we are talking Germany? Might have to use the phone. Wait ... wait ... now I'm seeing Vienna ... that would be easier for me to visit. Dot at ... should be Austria.
 
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marlinspike

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That is much appreciated information! Assuming restrictions are lifted and COVID has someone behind us I have plans to be in Budapest later this year or early next year.
Ah well he's in Vienna, but he's originally Romanian and he does a nice Budapest model (though I haven't gotten one, it's one of the first shoes he put on Instagram if i remember correctly).
 

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clee1982

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This is new Taiwanese guy I have been following he starts around $850, not sure if it’s full bespoke or last modification type

he is Italian trained and spent some time under one of the Chinese shoe maker (Yim?) though stuff looks more English than Italian

 

j ingevaldsson

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This is new Taiwanese guy I have been following he starts around $850, not sure if it’s full bespoke or last modification type

he is Italian trained and spent some time under one of the Chinese shoe maker (Yim?) though stuff looks more English than Italian

I'm writing an article where Hung is included, will be published next week, will be some more answers on things in that.
 

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I'm writing an article where Hung is included, will be published next week, will be some more answers on things in that.
Where may we find your article?
 

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