• Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Please visit ou very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are posted, including the latest, updated, very comprehensive, Styleforum Black Friday Sales List

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

shirtingfantasy

Senior Member
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
649
Reaction score
1,358
Have I misread or misunderstood something? Tricker’s can do “benchmade” and “handwelted” in Northampton? Deliberate misinformation or ignorant PR manager at work?

 

Attachments

Braid

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2018
Messages
240
Reaction score
704
Have I misread or misunderstood something? Tricker’s can do “benchmade” and “handwelted” in Northampton? Deliberate misinformation or ignorant PR manager at work?

I don't have any first hand experience but apparently it is possible to have bespoke in Trickers:

I would assume these to be handwelted.
 
Last edited:

shirtingfantasy

Senior Member
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
649
Reaction score
1,358
I don't have any first hand experience but apparently it is possible to have bespoke in Trickers:

I would assume these to be handwelted.
Indeed possible. But I also assume their Instagram advert is about their “benchmade” ready-to-wear shoes.
 

ntempleman

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
1,116
Reaction score
1,867
It’s entirely possible to receive a handmade shoe from Trickers, my friend Adele works there and has received training from some of the finest West End sources in her apprenticeship

 

shirtingfantasy

Senior Member
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
649
Reaction score
1,358
It’s entirely possible to receive a handmade shoe from Trickers, my friend Adele works there and has received training from some of the finest West End sources in her apprenticeship

On re-reading the post I found that it was my mistake. They seem to mean they offer shoes using different methods of construction.

My bad.
 

bengal-stripe

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 23, 2002
Messages
4,574
Reaction score
1,099
Since.......ever, I suppose, Trickers has offered a 'bespoke' service. An individual last is made (by Springline), the upper is hand lasted and hand welted but the outsole is stitched by machine. Unlike a 'true bespoke' shoe, the design choice is limited to existing Trickers models

I don't know the current price, but it will considerably under a Westend bespoke shoe. I believe at one time most, if not all, Northampton factories offered this type of service, but Trickers, and maybe Grenson, are the last ones.
 

clee1982

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
19,902
Reaction score
6,325
I really hope English step up with more handwelt offering in RTW...
 

mozi

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
45
Reaction score
37
I am trying to understand the benefits of handwelt vs goodyear.

Among others, one of the most important differences I've picked up is that goodyear welted shoes have a limited number of times they can be resoled, whereas handwelted shoes can be resoled many time more, or even forever.

One cobbler has told me goodyear welted shoes can be resoled maybe 3 times, which is not great.
Another has told me it is 20 times, which is practically forever.

So I'd like to ask some members who might have had longer experiences with goodyear welted shoes - how often, if ever, has it happened that a cobbler has told you that your goodyear welted shoes were no longer able to be resoled? How many times have you had a goodyear welted shoe resoled with no problem?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
18,788
Reaction score
44,315
I am trying to understand the benefits of handwelt vs goodyear.

Among others, one of the most important differences I've picked up is that goodyear welted shoes have a limited number of times they can be resoled, whereas handwelted shoes can be resoled many time more, or even forever.

One cobbler has told me goodyear welted shoes can be resoled maybe 3 times, which is not great.
Another has told me it is 20 times, which is practically forever.

So I'd like to ask some members who might have had longer experiences with goodyear welted shoes - how often, if ever, has it happened that a cobbler has told you that your goodyear welted shoes were no longer able to be resoled? How many times have you had a goodyear welted shoe resoled with no problem?
I would be surprised if many people here have reached that number of resolings. I think many get into this stuff because GYW or handwelted shoes can be resoled. But then you end up collecting more and more shoes, at which point the issue becomes moot. If you have dozens, some here hundreds, of shoes, then each pair gets less wear than the average pair of Clarks.
 

ntempleman

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
1,116
Reaction score
1,867
Depends how you resole them. If you use one of those sole stitching machines, they stitch at a set length - you end up with more holes in the welt than you began with. Keep doing this and you’ll end up with more holes than leather in your welt. Doesn’t matter if the shoe has been handwelted, Goodyear welted, with your left hand or right hand or sewn with a 24k gold awl - a welt is just a strip of leather. When you’ve invested in a handmade, hand stitched pair of shoes, I’d hope you’ll return them to the maker to be rebottomed the same way they were made initially - do it by hand, with your original lasts back inside the shoe, and you can reuse the same holes as before, and now it’s more a case of how long the leather will last in the environment rather than how much abuse it can survive from a machine. Even if the welt itself is damaged, as happens with the sole wears down or just from salt and crap on the street causing it to deteriorate same as the uppers, you can replace the welt. You can replace anything as long as the upper is in good enough condition to justify it
 
Last edited:

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
37,858
Reaction score
12,332
All of the uppers in my shoes have cracked and gone to crap way before resoling was ever an issue. I think the most I have had a shoe resoled is 4 times. I typically end up having to resole my shoes every year. I typically have about 6 in rotation at a time.
 

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
37,858
Reaction score
12,332
Also, the main issue with Goodyear welting hasn't been mentioned. Goodyear welting uses a thinner insole and relies on gluing down a canvas strip to the insole, which the welt is sewn to. Handwelting requires a thicker insole and sewing the welt directly into the insole.
 

Texasmade

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Messages
11,043
Reaction score
9,379
All of the uppers in my shoes have cracked and gone to crap way before resoling was ever an issue. I think the most I have had a shoe resoled is 4 times. I typically end up having to resole my shoes every year. I typically have about 6 in rotation at a time.
Wrong thread. You need to post this in the plebe thread.
 

clee1982

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
19,902
Reaction score
6,325
To me, just an appreciation of someone actually could be bothered to do HW, I'm sure given my rotation of of 20~30 (depends on what I sold then purchased) resole is really never an issue (and I put vibram insert+metal toe tip on a lot of them, at least all the new ones). I can probably go cemented/glue on with my rotation size. I can't tell the comfort apart (I never really have long break in issue, because if a shoe takes forever to break in then chance are I would have sold them already).

edit: though I definitely wish there is a better way to get resole done, price is one thing, the wait and the operational hassle (ship stuff back to UK/Italy etc.)...
 
Last edited:

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Most Interesting Fashion Collaboration of 2020

  • JW Anderson x Uniqlo

  • Nigo x Virgil Abloh

  • Converse x Midnight Studios

  • Rick Owens x Champion

  • Barbour x Engineered Garments

  • Adidas x Bed JW Ford

  • Jordan Brand x Dior

  • Billie Eilish x Takashi Murakami

  • Lego x Levi's


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
449,056
Messages
9,720,383
Members
202,889
Latest member
henrywoodq545
Top