The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[shirtingfantasy]

Have I misread or misunderstood something? Tricker’s can do “benchmade” and “handwelted” in Northampton? Deliberate misinformation or ignorant PR manager at work?

 

[Braid]

Have I misread or misunderstood something? Tricker’s can do “benchmade” and “handwelted” in Northampton? Deliberate misinformation or ignorant PR manager at work?

I don't have any first hand experience but apparently it is possible to have bespoke in Trickers:

Bespoke Shoes & Boots | The Original Handmade English Country Shoes and Boots by Tricker's

The original and still the best. Equally at home in Chelsea and at Cheltenham, Tricker’s hand-made country shoes have been leading the way since before Queen Victoria’s day.

www.trickers.com

I would assume these to be handwelted.

 

[shirtingfantasy]

I don't have any first hand experience but apparently it is possible to have bespoke in Trickers:

Bespoke Shoes & Boots | The Original Handmade English Country Shoes and Boots by Tricker's

The original and still the best. Equally at home in Chelsea and at Cheltenham, Tricker’s hand-made country shoes have been leading the way since before Queen Victoria’s day.

www.trickers.com

I would assume these to be handwelted.

Indeed possible. But I also assume their Instagram advert is about their “benchmade” ready-to-wear shoes.

 

[ntempleman]

It’s entirely possible to receive a handmade shoe from Trickers, my friend Adele works there and has received training from some of the finest West End sources in her apprenticeship

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[shirtingfantasy]

It’s entirely possible to receive a handmade shoe from Trickers, my friend Adele works there and has received training from some of the finest West End sources in her apprenticeship

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On re-reading the post I found that it was my mistake. They seem to mean they offer shoes using different methods of construction.

My bad.

 

[bengal-stripe]

Since.......ever, I suppose, Trickers has offered a 'bespoke' service. An individual last is made (by Springline), the upper is hand lasted and hand welted but the outsole is stitched by machine. Unlike a 'true bespoke' shoe, the design choice is limited to existing Trickers models

I don't know the current price, but it will considerably under a Westend bespoke shoe. I believe at one time most, if not all, Northampton factories offered this type of service, but Trickers, and maybe Grenson, are the last ones.

 

[clee1982]

I really hope English step up with more handwelt offering in RTW...

 

[mozi]

I am trying to understand the benefits of handwelt vs goodyear.

Among others, one of the most important differences I've picked up is that goodyear welted shoes have a limited number of times they can be resoled, whereas handwelted shoes can be resoled many time more, or even forever.

One cobbler has told me goodyear welted shoes can be resoled maybe 3 times, which is not great.
Another has told me it is 20 times, which is practically forever.

So I'd like to ask some members who might have had longer experiences with goodyear welted shoes - how often, if ever, has it happened that a cobbler has told you that your goodyear welted shoes were no longer able to be resoled? How many times have you had a goodyear welted shoe resoled with no problem?

 

[dieworkwear]

I am trying to understand the benefits of handwelt vs goodyear.

Among others, one of the most important differences I've picked up is that goodyear welted shoes have a limited number of times they can be resoled, whereas handwelted shoes can be resoled many time more, or even forever.

One cobbler has told me goodyear welted shoes can be resoled maybe 3 times, which is not great.
Another has told me it is 20 times, which is practically forever.

So I'd like to ask some members who might have had longer experiences with goodyear welted shoes - how often, if ever, has it happened that a cobbler has told you that your goodyear welted shoes were no longer able to be resoled? How many times have you had a goodyear welted shoe resoled with no problem?

I would be surprised if many people here have reached that number of resolings. I think many get into this stuff because GYW or handwelted shoes can be resoled. But then you end up collecting more and more shoes, at which point the issue becomes moot. If you have dozens, some here hundreds, of shoes, then each pair gets less wear than the average pair of Clarks.

 

[ntempleman]

Depends how you resole them. If you use one of those sole stitching machines, they stitch at a set length - you end up with more holes in the welt than you began with. Keep doing this and you’ll end up with more holes than leather in your welt. Doesn’t matter if the shoe has been handwelted, Goodyear welted, with your left hand or right hand or sewn with a 24k gold awl - a welt is just a strip of leather. When you’ve invested in a handmade, hand stitched pair of shoes, I’d hope you’ll return them to the maker to be rebottomed the same way they were made initially - do it by hand, with your original lasts back inside the shoe, and you can reuse the same holes as before, and now it’s more a case of how long the leather will last in the environment rather than how much abuse it can survive from a machine. Even if the welt itself is damaged, as happens with the sole wears down or just from salt and crap on the street causing it to deteriorate same as the uppers, you can replace the welt. You can replace anything as long as the upper is in good enough condition to justify it

 

[patrickBOOTH]

All of the uppers in my shoes have cracked and gone to crap way before resoling was ever an issue. I think the most I have had a shoe resoled is 4 times. I typically end up having to resole my shoes every year. I typically have about 6 in rotation at a time.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Also, the main issue with Goodyear welting hasn't been mentioned. Goodyear welting uses a thinner insole and relies on gluing down a canvas strip to the insole, which the welt is sewn to. Handwelting requires a thicker insole and sewing the welt directly into the insole.

 

[Texasmade]

All of the uppers in my shoes have cracked and gone to crap way before resoling was ever an issue. I think the most I have had a shoe resoled is 4 times. I typically end up having to resole my shoes every year. I typically have about 6 in rotation at a time.

Wrong thread. You need to post this in the plebe thread.

 

[clee1982]

To me, just an appreciation of someone actually could be bothered to do HW, I'm sure given my rotation of of 20~30 (depends on what I sold then purchased) resole is really never an issue (and I put vibram insert+metal toe tip on a lot of them, at least all the new ones). I can probably go cemented/glue on with my rotation size. I can't tell the comfort apart (I never really have long break in issue, because if a shoe takes forever to break in then chance are I would have sold them already).

edit: though I definitely wish there is a better way to get resole done, price is one thing, the wait and the operational hassle (ship stuff back to UK/Italy etc.)...

 

[patrickBOOTH]

If they didn't wear out so fast I'd have one pair. I hate variety.