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The Bespoke Shoes Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jerrybrowne, Dec 25, 2014.

  1. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Distinguished Member

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    That's what the English call cordovan....
     


  2. poorsod

    poorsod Distinguished Member

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  3. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Lattanzi and doubtless others will sell leather from the front of the horse.
     


  4. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Good luck. I asked for the same thing (out of shark skin), and while the results look very nice they don't have the Alden toe by a long shot. For that, try Crockett & Jones Harvard.
     


  5. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    It's a bit difficult to see in the pictures, but I presume those loafers are unlined. What I first presumed to be a (heel) counter, might be a pocket of lining- or even self-leather where the heel stiffener is tucked into. I presume there must be a toe cap, is this simply glued into place, or is the underside of the apron (lake) lined, hiding the toe cap (partially)?

    Could the clicker arrange the Horween stamp to occupy some attractive position inside the shoe?

    [​IMG]
     


  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    Those look great. Is there a reason why there's a side seam on these though?

    Edit: Whoops, looks like @bengal-stripe above might have answered my question. So is it just for a pocket of lining? IIRC, unlined Alden LHS loafers don't have that kind of construction.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2015


  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    This is the C&J "Harward" (unlined shell) and in the picture you can see the pocket clearly.
    During the making process the stiffener gets shoved into this pocket.

    [​IMG]
     


  8. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Distinguished Member

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    These are indeed unlined and the heel stitching is for a suede insert that sort of acts like a stiffener. My unlined suede loafers have this too. The toe cap is a glued piece of plastic (maybe celastic- can't tell) and the lake is lined with a thin leather. Overall good structure to these compared to other unlined loafers.....
     


  9. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Distinguished Member

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    Probably is a stiffener behind the suede. Good call.
     


  10. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Stylish Dinosaur

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    I know, I was wondering why.
     


  11. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Distinguished Member

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    Toe stiffener looks to be leather that's glued in (felt and looked like plastic).

    [​IMG]

    Here is a pic of the heel.

    [​IMG]
     


  12. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Nicely proportioned, which isn't always a given with this particular pattern. Getting the toe cap: vamp ratio is harder than you'd think.
    And Fosters do have lovely finishing.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2015


  13. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Senior Member

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    To add to the dark brown blucher parade, here's my first pair of bespoke shoes, from Maftei. I just received them and have a positive first impression of the fit. Pegged soles.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  14. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    I believe that the term "crup" may have Germanic roots, while "cordovan" comes from the town of Cordoba. A bit like the origins of the words shoe and boot, we like to be as ambiguous as we can over here and so mix Germanic or Romance languages as freely and confusingly as possible.
     


  15. Tony Montana

    Tony Montana Senior Member

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    Not entirely related to your post but I just got reminded there is a book called "International Dictionary of the Leather and Allied Trades" by Walter Freudenberg: https://books.google.de/books?id=HZ...o9yRxwIVxXNyCh25JwmS#v=snippet&q=crup&f=false
     


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