Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jerrybrowne, Dec 25, 2014.
That's what the English call cordovan....
Apparently crup means horsehide.
Perhaps since cordovan is the only type of horse leather available these days, crup has come to be synonymous with cordovan.
Lattanzi and doubtless others will sell leather from the front of the horse.
Good luck. I asked for the same thing (out of shark skin), and while the results look very nice they don't have the Alden toe by a long shot. For that, try Crockett & Jones Harvard.
It's a bit difficult to see in the pictures, but I presume those loafers are unlined. What I first presumed to be a (heel) counter, might be a pocket of lining- or even self-leather where the heel stiffener is tucked into. I presume there must be a toe cap, is this simply glued into place, or is the underside of the apron (lake) lined, hiding the toe cap (partially)?
Could the clicker arrange the Horween stamp to occupy some attractive position inside the shoe?
Those look great. Is there a reason why there's a side seam on these though?
Edit: Whoops, looks like @bengal-stripe above might have answered my question. So is it just for a pocket of lining? IIRC, unlined Alden LHS loafers don't have that kind of construction.
This is the C&J "Harward" (unlined shell) and in the picture you can see the pocket clearly.
During the making process the stiffener gets shoved into this pocket.
These are indeed unlined and the heel stitching is for a suede insert that sort of acts like a stiffener. My unlined suede loafers have this too. The toe cap is a glued piece of plastic (maybe celastic- can't tell) and the lake is lined with a thin leather. Overall good structure to these compared to other unlined loafers.....
Probably is a stiffener behind the suede. Good call.
I know, I was wondering why.
Toe stiffener looks to be leather that's glued in (felt and looked like plastic).
Here is a pic of the heel.
Nicely proportioned, which isn't always a given with this particular pattern. Getting the toe cap: vamp ratio is harder than you'd think.
And Fosters do have lovely finishing.
To add to the dark brown blucher parade, here's my first pair of bespoke shoes, from Maftei. I just received them and have a positive first impression of the fit. Pegged soles.
I believe that the term "crup" may have Germanic roots, while "cordovan" comes from the town of Cordoba. A bit like the origins of the words shoe and boot, we like to be as ambiguous as we can over here and so mix Germanic or Romance languages as freely and confusingly as possible.
Not entirely related to your post but I just got reminded there is a book called "International Dictionary of the Leather and Allied Trades" by Walter Freudenberg: https://books.google.de/books?id=HZ...o9yRxwIVxXNyCh25JwmS#v=snippet&q=crup&f=false
Separate names with a comma.