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The Bespoke Shoes Thread

dauster

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This is exactly what I thought, and why I was like, well--get some feedback on this. I have a number of AE shoes, and they're fine--great even. But they tend to look . . . really American. I don't know how it's possible we could create something like the Corvette and McDonald's at roughly the same time.
yeah that's why I dont like them. AE are fine on sale if you just want a proper business shoe but it doesnt "move me"
 

dauster

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Here's a pair of "clunky" shoes I got from Nicholas. I wanted something much more casual and less sleek than the usual stuff. I find these are easy to wear even with jeans.

I gave Nicholas some photos of lasts I liked that were in this spirit. But the end result isn't a direct copy of those lasts, just his interpretation. There's no way I could have specified every angle though, I just have to convey what's in my mind as best as I can. I think he translates that idea pretty well.

I think the shape of the last matters a lot. But again, it's not like you can hold the person's hand and tell them what you want. Even if you could, you wouldn't know how to shape those angles, so you rely on them and their sense of design.


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And another style that's casual and "clunky"

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Compared to a pair that's dressier/ sleeker.


View attachment 1388295
May I ask why you buy these bespoke? I feel like there is a plethora of great RTW options unless money is truly no object or your feet have trouble fitting into RTW.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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May I ask why you buy these bespoke? I feel like there is a plethora of great RTW options unless money is truly no object or your feet have trouble fitting into RTW.
Mainly for fun. I fit perfectly fine in RTW, but just enjoy the process of getting bespoke shoes. I also find I like wearing them more.

A coming pair of bespoke side zips that will replace some from Margiela. In some cases, I also can't find what I need in RTW. Most side zips aren't very well made or they don't have the very casual toe shape I want. So I got these from Nicholas.

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dauster

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Mainly for fun. I fit perfectly fine in RTW, but just enjoy the process of getting bespoke shoes. I also find I like wearing them more.

A coming pair of bespoke side zips that will replace some from Margiela. In some cases, I also can't find what I need in RTW. Most side zips aren't very well made or they don't have the very casual toe shape I want. So I got these from Nicholas.

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got it - I guess fun is the most important part of the whole process
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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got it - I guess fun is the most important part of the whole process
Those chunkier split toes also filled as slot I couldn't easily find on the market. I like the idea of a more casual and rounded split toe, but these from JM Weston were way too clunky. I tried them on in the store and they just felt awkward on me.

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So then I had Nicholas make something similar but without the chunky welt. We also used slightly thinner leather than Weston, so the shoes wouldn't look so heavy.


tumblr_inline_p7phw5hGUx1qfex1b_1280.jpg




If someone wanted something RTW though, I think Paraboot's Avignon fit a similar slot. I just think they look a little more casual and maybe not ideal in some tailored outfits.


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Also the Chambord.

chambord__20092.1525343508.jpg
 
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jiredell

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One of the things that I've found in my experience with bespoke suits is that I simply like the artisanal work. I find the process kind of fun too. Much more fun than buying a suit OFR or on eBay and having it altered. I appreciate the craftsmanship and having this person who does this old-world style of artistry-meeting-practicality make something for me. This is part of my attraction to bespoke shoes. It's very similar to how I feel about mechanical watches. I get the point of quartz, but there's no poetry to it. Is this the same for others?
 

dauster

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Those chunkier split toes also filled as slot I couldn't easily find on the market. I like the idea of a more casual and rounded split toe, but these from JM Weston were way too clunky. I tried them on in the store and they just felt awkward on me.

View attachment 1388331


So then I had Nicholas make something similar but without the chunky welt. We also used slightly thinner leather than Weston, so the shoes wouldn't look so heavy.


View attachment 1388330


If someone wanted something RTW though, I think Paraboot's Chambords also look great and fit that similar slot. I just think they're slightly harder to wear with tailored clothing and are more decidedly casualwear, whereas I find I can wear the ones above with tailoring or jeans.

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You seem to be a guy of great sensibility and taste... how can you like these shoes?:) I know for you my taste looks like multiple instagram pics merged but still...
 

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Mahatma Jawndi
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You seem to be a guy of great sensibility and taste... how can you like these shoes?:) I know for you my taste looks like multiple instagram pics merged but still...
What do you dislike about them? I assume that they don't look sleek?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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yes exactly... but actually I like the ones nicholas made for you but he has a sleeker version which I would prefer
I think sleek shoes look out of place in casualwear. To give an example, this Avignon shape looks more congruent to me with jeans. I don't like the long toe seam here, but that's also partly why I bought a pair bespoke, so I could get exactly the seam I want. But the general style here is good and casual.

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Here's the Chambord.

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Chris here is wearing work boots, but the style of toe I'm talking about works better for fits like this

tumblr_onn9uwlaiE1qa2j8co4_r2_400.jpg



A friend of mine drew this comic today. Obviously on a woman and it's a comic, but this is the kind of style I prefer in casualwear.


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When guys wear super sleek shoes with jeans, it always looks to me like someone doesn't know how to dress casual. It looks like a dad in jeans and a polo shirt. It feels very #sartorial menswear.

But even in dressier tailored outfits, I think (most) English styles look better than (most) French or Italian. They tend to be more conservative. It looks much more tasteful to me.

Personally not into this stuff at all. Tan pointy shoes, fake patina, skinny suit.


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This is an easy reach, but Vox's blog has a ton of good photos. Lots of good outfits.


I also really like these. The proportions look more comfortable and also tasteful


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G-Bruce-Boyer-Flannel-Suit-The-Journal-of-Style.jpg


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The shoes immediately above are the same ones here below. Again, the more conservative last just looks so much more tasteful to me.

tumblr_m0qobwRPkL1qa2j8co1_1280.jpg



Mark has some sleek loafers, which I think look great. But I think you have to work with a good shoemaker to get those proportions right.




I also think his split toes look terrific. Just great design choices all around.


 
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dauster

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I think sleek shoes look out of place in casualwear. To give an example, this Avignon shape looks more congruent to me with jeans. I don't like the long toe seam here, but that's also partly why I bought a pair bespoke, so I could get exactly the seam I want. But the general style here is good and casual.

View attachment 1388358

Here's the Chambord.

View attachment 1388357

Chris here is wearing work boots, but the style of toe I'm talking about works better for fits like this

View attachment 1388359


A friend of mine drew this comic today. Obviously on a woman and it's a comic, but this is the kind of style I prefer in casualwear.


View attachment 1388360



When guys wear super sleek shoes with jeans, it always looks to me like someone doesn't know how to dress casual. It looks like a dad in jeans and a polo shirt. It feels very #sartorial menswear.

But even in dressier tailored outfits, I think (most) English styles look better than (most) French or Italian. They tend to be more conservative. It looks much more tasteful to me.

Personally not into this stuff at all. Tan shoes, fake patina, skinny suit.


View attachment 1388361


This is an easy reach, but Vox's blog has a ton of good photos. Lots of good outfits.


I also really like these. The proportions look more comfortable and also tasteful


View attachment 1388362

View attachment 1388365

View attachment 1388363

The shoes immediately above are the same ones here below. Again, the more conservative last just looks so much more tasteful to me.

View attachment 1388364


Mark has some sleek loafers, which I think look great. But I think you have to work with a good shoemaker to get those proportions right.




I also think his split toes look terrific. Just great design choices all around.


That is a very good point which I sometimes forget that the less sleek models tend to look better with jeans and casual outfits still some of them are a bit too rounded - I think there is middle ground of sophisticated and sleek shoes that also work with casual outfits. from all the shoes you showed here the suede one worn with purple socks is the best looking to me.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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That is a very good point which I sometimes forget that the less sleek models tend to look better with jeans and casual outfits still some of them are a bit too rounded - I think there is middle ground of sophisticated and sleek shoes that also work with casual outfits. from all the shoes you showed here the suede one worn with purple socks is the best looking to me.
I like that shape with tailoring. My causalwear tends to be too casual for that kind of shape.

One of my favorite pairs of shoes right now is Blundstone, which is extremely rounded. But I think it looks great when worn like this


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dauster

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bjhofkin

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Phenomenal stuff, man.

Had a great talk with Nicholas today to nail down the specs on a pair of George boots in Baker's version of Russian calf (credit to @Equus Leather for introducing me to it) that are going to be about as clunky as West End shoemaking gets.

Based roughly on @emptym's boots from @DWFII that you wrote up a few years back, but with a Norwegian welt and thick sole so probably even somewhat more hefty-feeling.

Probably can't stretch to a smart suit on one end or to a true workwear-cut pair of jeans on the other – but will be perfect with flannel trousers, or a relatively smarter pair of jeans.

Nicholas can make sharp oxfords with the best of them – but I think he's really carved out a niche as a bespoke maker who can hit that sweet you've been describing.

Oh, and funny story: I was asking him about boot trees so he sent me a photo of yours and – without looking closely enough – I texted him back and said I don't want a monogram!

Mainly for fun. I fit perfectly fine in RTW, but just enjoy the process of getting bespoke shoes. I also find I like wearing them more.

A coming pair of bespoke side zips that will replace some from Margiela. In some cases, I also can't find what I need in RTW. Most side zips aren't very well made or they don't have the very casual toe shape I want. So I got these from Nicholas.

View attachment 1388317
View attachment 1388322
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Phenomenal stuff, man.

Had a great talk with Nicholas today to nail down the specs on a pair of George boots in Baker's version of Russian calf (credit to @Equus Leather for introducing me to it) that are going to be about as clunky as West End shoemaking gets.

Based roughly on @emptym's boots from @DWFII that you wrote up a few years back, but with a Norwegian welt and thick sole so probably even somewhat more hefty-feeling.

Probably can't stretch to a smart suit on one end or to a true workwear-cut pair of jeans on the other – but will be perfect with flannel trousers, or a relatively smarter pair of jeans.

Nicholas can make sharp oxfords with the best of them – but I think he's really carved out a niche as a bespoke maker who can hit that sweet you've been describing.

Oh, and funny story: I was asking him about boot trees so he sent me a photo of yours and – without looking closely enough – I texted him back and said I don't want a monogram!
George boots sound great. I've always wanted a pair of those as well. I also don't wear suits very often, so it's all casual shoes for me -- derbies, loafers, boots. No real use for oxfords.

Funny enough, I thought those were monogrammed at first too. Then took a closer look. I was undecided on the shoe tree color, but figured I'd do black to match the shoes.
 

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