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The Bespoke Shoes Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jerrybrowne, Dec 25, 2014.

  1. shoefan

    shoefan Senior Member

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    Nicholas:

    Nice work. A couple of questions: it looks like you used a shoemaker's stitch to sew the upper to the insole. Any reason for doing that vs. a simple whip stitch? Did you cut any feather on the insole to make it easier to stitch it?

    Also, I think you or JerryBrowne referenced a change to the lasts for the derby style, vs. an oxford. Just curious what changes you make -- e.g. a bit higher cone/less concave shape across the joints, or what? Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2015


  2. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    Thank you for the kind words, shoefan. The insole prep and stitch is the same as for welting, just without the welt. I find it's best to keep things as close as the real shoe as possible, little changes can have a huge effect and you're already at a disadvantage fit-wise without the sole and heel there. Also, one less thing to think about if you're sewing the same way you always do. (I'll also say for the record I'm not a fan of cork which I used here only as a trial specific shortcut, and also tarred felt and floors aren't a good combination.)

    The main change between the lasts is around the facings, you'll see a lot of Derby's with that V shape which is because it's too full at the bottom of the instep. It's ok for Oxfords, you want that shape really, but taking a portion away helps you a lot on a Derby. There's a few other vague things I'd change, but I'm one of those pesky folk who makes most decisions by intuition and is useless at explaining them as a result...
     


  3. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    One last post before I slip back into the shadows, because this looks like fun and I want to play too:

    [​IMG]

    Nothing if not colourful, let's see if I'm wearing them this summer or the next!
     


  4. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    Okay,
    I totally lied about that being my last post, here's a pair for my wife as I want to try this leather out and see how it holds up. They'll have a bit of a higher heel, and should turn out fairly interesting I think as a "mens" style with a twist. Something durable for the commute, and put her trainers/sneakers in the bin.

    [​IMG]

    And a better shot of mine after chasing the sunshine into the back garden:

    [​IMG]


    Now that's really it folks!
     


  5. YRR92

    YRR92 Distinguished Member

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    Are you saying black sharkskin plain-toe oxfords? Because that would be amazing. The right pebble grain would be as cool, IMHO.
     


  6. diadem

    diadem Distinguished Member

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    I recently sent feedback to Antonio Meccariello on a pair of test shoes he made for me and he's now starting work on my first pair of Aurum MTO shoes. Some details of the shoes -- cap-toe adelaide, no broguing, black pebble grain leather from Annonnay, Aurum chisel last, metal toe-taps. I will post pics when I receive them.
     


  7. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Stylish Dinosaur

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    Was going to say how close the welt was cut, can't even see, waist etc etc... and then there is no sole. lolol
     


  8. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    That is my initial thought. It's a weird intersection of obligations-- useful for a suit, but will also do double-duty with a grey/black/white sport coat or sweater combo; can handle bad weather, and has enough texture to stand up to a flannel or cheviot tweed. If it's too heavily brogued, it might collect crud off the street and be hard to clean. But a simple cap-toe might not look good with anything other than a standard worsted suit, especially since I get one of Cleverley's rounder toes. Hence the plain toe and the grain.

    I did a plain-toed oxford in brown some years back with Cleverley. The leather had a very light texture (sort of a willow calf?) but not enough to add weight to the toe. So while it looks OK for the summer, it could reasonably have taken a medallion for balance. Scotch grain or a similar kind of thing would have worked still better. Shark, reindeer, kudu...
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2015


  9. T4phage

    T4phage Distinguished Member

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    Location:
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    meccariello gators
    mounted

    the 'standard'
    orientation:
    [​IMG]


    and teh
    throat to
    toe
    [​IMG]
     


  10. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Distinguished Member

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    Coming along nicely. Esp. like the pennies.
     


  11. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Speaking of loafers, I'm just breaking in a pair of Vass on the wide (F width) F last. Antic Cordovan shell. Very beautiful shape-- they are more than their oxfords on the wide last, even thought the lake is a tad narrow for the purpose. Also much better support than Alden (Van 11E) and more substance than the Wildsmith slipper (standard-issue EG Harrow), while retaining 85% of its elegance.

    Anyway, I was thinking about shell loafers. The Shoe Mart is putting their wait list together for Alden Ravello/Whiskey, which are lovely even if better for loafing than walking. And Vass is always there. But I was wondering about EG with their unlined Harrow model-- has anyone done these in shell? And is there any advantage to going Top Drawer on these? My impression was that the Top Drawer had a more serious heel, which can improve the arch and overall support.
     


  12. dopey

    dopey Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    Everyone is different, but I have my share of foot problems and still found the Alden loafers very comfortable for walking (albeit I modify them with heaped orthotics). I have the unlined Brooks version and the regular lined Alden models.
     


  13. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Aldens are certainly sturdily built, and, as you say, it is personal. For me-- not using the orthotics-- they are a little flatter and looser than ideal for my stance and gait.

    The Vass (so far-- they're still quite new) have higher heels and slimmer arch, coupled with a very sturdy sole. At the moment, I would place them not far from some of my best bespoke lace-up shoes as far as comfort. We'll see how it all works when the honeymoon ends.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2015


  14. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Distinguished Member

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    I looked into EG loafers in shell several years ago and the answer was a big "no". Things might have changed though.

    Have you thought about Saint Crispin's (perhaps through Skoak)? They will make just about anything you want, allow last adjustments and custom lasts, and allow you to give input into any detail of the shoe, including shape of the lake etc. Also are experienced with shell. They also do not make mistakes with details as Vass often does.

    Crockett and jones also has an unlined shell loafer that I think is better than the Alden LHS.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2015


  15. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Distinguished Member

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    Forgot to mention that they have the best arch support of any RTW maker, if that is a key issue.
     


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