Nicholas: Nice work. A couple of questions: it looks like you used a shoemaker's stitch to sew the upper to the insole. Any reason for doing that vs. a simple whip stitch? Did you cut any feather on the insole to make it easier to stitch it? Also, I think you or JerryBrowne referenced a change to the lasts for the derby style, vs. an oxford. Just curious what changes you make -- e.g. a bit higher cone/less concave shape across the joints, or what? Thanks in advance.