The Bespoke Shoes Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jerrybrowne, Dec 25, 2014.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    If there is a mechanical rationale to prefer a wider heels seat it is simply that the heel seat (and even welting to a very real extent) acts as a buffer / bumper to protect the upper. The more the back of the shoe hangs over the heel seat...esp. since it is backed with a stiffener...the more vulnerable it is to scuffing and damage.
     
  2. mw313

    mw313 Senior member

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    I like it!
     
  3. mw313

    mw313 Senior member

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    Also just so everyone knows, Skoaktiebolaget is now carrying St. Crispins with free MTO if anyone has interest!
     
  4. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    pricing is a steal too....
     
  5. mw313

    mw313 Senior member

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    exactly! that is why i posted it here. I wouldn't have wasted the time of us MTO/Bespoke guys who know our stuff on shoes, if the prices and options weren't so fantastic!!!!!!
     
  6. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    yeah, i was waiting for this thread to blow up
     
  7. mw313

    mw313 Senior member

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    Haha. I'm surprised that it didn't already with ideas from people on some great MTOs
     
  8. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    More updates. I was unable to travel to London for this, so Nicholas was kind enough to send my fitting shoes to Boston. Fitting this way is actually better than what occurs during short visits to the shop or during tours, because it gives you more time with the trial shoes.

    Nicholas used some leather scraps for these fitting pairs, but the leather was still nicer than the leather on some of my RTW shoes. Instead of using the usual "insole up in waist" to deal with my arch support issues, Nicholas tried incorporating a long inside stiffener which worked well. So far very happy with the shape of the last and fit. There were only minor alterations.


    [​IMG]

    He also tried out two different lake proportions. I preferred the one on the left shoe...

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2015
  9. mw313

    mw313 Senior member

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    I have a pair being made for me that also will have the long inside stiffener. I haven't tried it before so I am curious how it will feel and function from a biomechanical perspective. I have my first fitting sometime soon. I just have to get the time to go visit my shoemaker.
     
  10. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looking very good!

    Is the apron ("lake" if you like) supposed to be as austere and minimal (just a single row of of machining) or will the finished shoe sport a more elaborate apron seam? (I seem to remember a sample with a very nice plaited apron seam.)
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2015
  11. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    The finished shoe will have the elaborate apron seam, and the reverse stitched split toe. Although, now that I've seen the way a single row of machine stitch looks, I'm thinking of having another pair done this way. Maybe a high contrast stitching.....
     
  12. mw313

    mw313 Senior member

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    i have to say that the minimalist design of the stitching is very refreshing!
     
  13. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very attractive-- and nice to see such thoroughness.

    Does Nicholas have a storefront, or did you have to meet in the back of a pub somewhere?
     
  14. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Haha! Keep an eye out for an unmarked blue Ford Transit in a town near you, possibly. I've been steering clear of this thread while jerrybrowne gives his ongoing critique as I'd like his feedback to be as honest and uninfluenced as possible, but I'll just run through this question, if you don't mind.

    I don't have a shop as yet - I'm looking for one, getting the right location, unit size etc needs a lot of consideration and of course time. I've given some thought to having a sort of booth in an existing shop as a few other people have done, but the thing is, I'm already based in the middle of London so I'm not sure what would be gained from a second London location as a temporary measure. My workshop is currently in my house, it's as easy to get to as anywhere else in London's Zone 1 and anyone's welcome to visit for a chat and a coffee. I just upgraded my espresso machine so ginuea pigs are required, and if the weather's good we can sit out in the garden.

    Of course, if the back of a pub somewhere is more convenient then I'm happy to adapt!
     
  15. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    Very nice, thumbs up for the left shoes lake proportion. It looks better to my eye too.
     

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