The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[DWFII]

Hours is what I was asking about specifically. 80 hours seems right in my mind, but I have never made a shoe...

Ask ten shoemakers and get ten different answers.

Depends on how much of the operation is 'mechanized.' Even in bespoke shops some operations can be done by machine and the results will not differ in any significant way from when it is done by hand. But the time difference can be immense.

For instance I prefer to stitch the outsole by hand (for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the integrity of a shoemaker's stitch) but aside from the fact that machine stitching is historically correct on some of the boots I make, it takes me the better part of a day to hand stitch an outsole, at 10-12 spi, to just behind the treadline....and all of ten minutes to stitch it by machine. Similarly with splitting leather. Of course I am old and slow and my attention span and my back are not as resolute as once they were.

That said, I get about 40 hours into a basic boot.

Like shoes, much also depends on how intricate the design.

For a handwelted, hand stitched, shoe 80 hours might be reasonable. Of course, that assumes that the uppers are sewn with a machine.

At a certain point, it's a fools game (or a manufacturing must) to count the hours.

YMMV

 

[ottmt89]

The answer is it depends, there are many factors that affect it. For example, the leather reinforcements of the heel and toe can be built or there are those already made. The welt you can build or use a welt roll. Some seams (or all) in the upper can be made by hand or use machines. Then there are other patterns that take more time than others. For example an oxford takes less time than a split toe derby with hand stitching, etc. So 50 hours may be enough, or 80 or even more. It depends on how the shoemaker works and his choices.

 

[Concordia]

One of the latest works. A derby in leather suede and some workmanship. More updates soon.

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Nicely proportioned. For some reason, many makers don't get the cap-toe right for Derby styles.

 

[ottmt89]

Thank you very much, we do our best.

 

[Manuel]

@Manuel

The process or shall I say, project with Phillip Car at St. Crispin has taken a year to date. Let me explain.

I was first introduced to St. Crispin earlier last year when I decided on a full shoe wardrobe overhaul. As I did with my bespoke wardrobe, I came up with a plan and designed what I thought was an ideal shoe wardrobe for my purposes. I then set out to select makers to execute this vision. After some thorough research which included a trip to Milan to visit Marco Facchinetti of Riccardo Bestetti, I settled on these 3 makers (Edward Green, St. Crispin & Cleverley) for my dress shoes. BTW, I also built into my wardrobe re-make a RTW pair of Budapester derbies on the original Budapester last from Vass (for casual wear) and an experimental oxford brogue (G&G Rothschild on DG70 last) from Gaziano & Girling whose pointy lasts I couldn't quite come around to for the semi-bespoke short list. The G&G is a dark brown brogue in Vintage Oak which I've since relegated to brown suits and summer casual suiting (I avoid pairing oxford shoes with sport jackets. For that I prefer derbies)

Around summer last year, I had my first consultation with Phillip Car at St. C. He proceeded to make me a personal last and trial shoes which were delivered sometime in the Fall of 2018. Once we'd ironed out the kinks in the trial pair, I placed my first order for production shoes around December 2018. We began with a pair of dark brown Inca grained leather Chukka ankle boots (Model 524) and a classic pair of whole-cut oxfords in black (Model 114). The first two pair were delivered in March 2019 and the fit was almost bespoke good. I was delighted finally to have a pair of oxfords that fit my narrow-heeled, flat feet (derbies I can manage Off-the rack because of the open lacing enclosure).

We then decided to experiment further by building my medically prescribed orthotics into a shoe and decided to do that with the burgundy cap toes (Model 522B with some personal design mods). I placed the 2nd order in March 2019 upon receiving my first two pair. The shoes of course looked perfectly executed aesthetically but I've sent them back to St. C for some minor correction in fit. As we speak, its in the mail coming back to me (July 2019). So thats the year long journey with Phillip Car and St. C.

Edward Green (which I've worn for 15 years) and Cleverley are a different story. They made minor adjustments to a standard C and D width respectively (mostly narrowing the heels further and bringing in the instep a bit to accommodate my shallow feet) but nothing remotely close to the level of customization of the St. C. I placed the order for both EG and Clev in December 2018. I received the EG's in May 2019 and the Cleverley's just got finished last week (July 2019).

I also had all three makers make me black dress oxfords. Plain black cap toe Edward Green Chelsea in 11.5/12 202C and a pair of black Anthony Cleverley plain cap Bodie in 11.5 D UK. The St. C's are a classic pair of black whole cuts (Model 114) for formal wear.

So as far as a "core" workhorse dress shoe wardrobe, I'm pretty much shoed-out for possibly a lifetime assuming proper care and resoling (which all three makers offer).

Alan Bee

Hi Alan, have you received your new shoes yet? I would like know about them.....

 

[Manuel]

After the discussion about what is the best construction method or why and seeing you are not specific answer to give with enough consistency I´m still expecting an answer to the question I made in the post "1486"
While this occurs................let`s see how were made spectator shoes, It is so much fun for me and very easy.
Let's see go what is the main problem of the master craftsmen, or, in other words, "their worst nightmare"
Yeah! Don't be surprised, THE BLADE
Its handling makes to the master craftsmen big or small and this is one of the reason why you will never see them working directly doing all the work in front of the public.
I like to always prepare my blades, I don't have a sharpening guide either
I use never small blade o scalpel......A blade or knife for each thing....

First you need giving it form, remember; avoid excess heating

Then we started to emptying the blade, remember and very important; the blade speak to you, no kidding....

Finally, she is ready to work, if you are unable to sharpening your blade..............then you may never a great master because you will always depend other people it is always a bad thing.

To be continue........

 

[Manuel]

Let´s see how were made the spectator shoes.....I made all the work by the blade I did not use skiving machine.
Yeah I use recycled paper......

to be continue.......

 

[Manuel]

This is exclusive for Styleforum, I had lot of fun with this type of work..
Some more pics

To be continue.....

 

[Manuel]

I like to see how they look before riding or "mountain" them, unlined.
Seen from different angles

Preparing the lining....tongue....

I know you like to see the things very close.......I haven't any problem.

To be continue....

 

[Manuel]

Well, there's no better construction method, you can imagine what you want in this pair of bespoke shoes, hand welted, blake, willy is the same, these isn´t the important, the truly important is that the customer is satisfied and that fits what customer wants.

Yeah, I have my fingers

I don´t like much sparkle......just a little bit

 

[Manuel]

By the way, of course I like the brightness and a lot of........

In process ......

The best.......?????????

 

[Texasmade]

Good stuff.

 

[beargonefishing]

Well, there's no better construction method, you can imagine what you want in this pair of bespoke shoes, hand welted, blake, willy is the same, these isn´t the important, the truly important is that the customer is satisfied and that fits what customer wants.
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Yeah, I have my fingers
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I don´t like much sparkle......just a little bit
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This is good stuff.

 

[Alan Bee]

Hi Alan, have you received your new shoes yet? I would like know about them.....

@Manuel

Hi Manuel, thank you for asking.

I got the shoes back and they worked out very well. The built in arch support gives me 90% support of the actual medical othortics.

There’s a little bit of extra room (added to my custom last) in the instep (to accommodate the pellotte).

I’m currently having another pair made with a slight modification to the instep which should nail down the last on the 3rd pair of oxfords.

I also had the 2nd pair in burgundy darkened a little bit as the original color was a bit too bright for my taste

I’ll keep you posted ....

Alan Bee

 

[ygtyf]

I make my own shoes with modified lasts. Sort of bespoke? After feedback from the first 3, 4 pairs, fit is now very good. It takes me about 50~150 hours to finish a pair.