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The Berluti shoe thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by A Harris, Sep 3, 2006.

  1. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    Stop by a shop in Milan, London or Paris and check out the Olga III collection. You might like some.

    Berluti no doubt varies wildly from hideous to gorgeous in my opinion.
     
  2. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    Hmmm, I did not see that. What was the price?
     
  3. bryce330

    bryce330 Senior member

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    Stop by a shop in Milan, London or Paris and check out the Olga III collection. You might like some. Berluti no doubt varies wildly from hideous to gorgeous in my opinion.
    Very true. I consider myself a big Berluti fan, but the fact is that I probably wouldn't wear 95% of the styles they offer. I just think that those other 5% (such as the Club Norvegese, the Olga III Alessandro, and the Andy loafers) are some of the most beautiful shoes in the world, notwithstanding the relatively low price/quality ratio.
     
  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Stop by a shop in Milan, London or Paris and check out the Olga III collection. You might like some. Berluti no doubt varies wildly from hideous to gorgeous in my opinion.
    Very true. I consider myself a big Berluti fan, but the fact is that I probably wouldn't wear 95% of the styles they offer. I just think that those other 5% (such as the Club Norvegese, the Olga III Alessandro, and the Andy loafers) are some of the most beautiful shoes in the world, notwithstanding the relatively low price/quality ratio.
    I have been to many Berluti shops and have never seen a pair that I would want to buy. Perhaps if somebody gave me the Andy loafers I might wear them. Then again, I love my Budapesters so tastes vary.
     
  5. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    The ones with the clown shoe toe? [​IMG]
     
  6. macuser3of5

    macuser3of5 Senior member

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    I haven't seen Berlutis in person, but the variated patinas on some of the more 'normal' lasted shoes are simply gorgeous (as photographed). Reminds me of some of the wacky stuff we did in metalsmithing, though I doubt they use horse urine and salt to stain their shoes. [​IMG]
     
  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    The ones with the clown shoe toe? [​IMG]

    It's more like a shark-mouth...
     
  8. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's more like a shark-mouth...

    LOL [​IMG]

    It's coming for you, AF!
     
  9. stilmacher

    stilmacher Senior member

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    The most amazing thing about Berluti is their marketing. I love (some) of their designs and their patina but since I learned the truth about them I sold all the pairs I owned but one. Very nearly nothing comunicated about the brand is true. Not even Mrs Berluti. Sure, she is a real person, but she has very little to do with the Berluti family and their heritage of craftsmanship.
    Of the 7 pairs I owned and maybe 20 I sold, not a single one was goodyear welted - all blake. None of the leathers were properly dyed but rather painted. Older models seem to be of better quality (a LVMH phenomenon if you ask me). Despite their efforts of reducing costs (-> quality) they lost 900.000 Euro last year.
    In effect I think there are better, more exclusive and more stylish shoe-makers around (Corthay, Aubercy...) who make an equally exciting product in terms of design, with much better quality and at the same price-level.
    I will post some pictures later on today.
     
  10. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    In effect I think there are better ... and more stylish shoe-makers around (Corthay, Aubercy...) who make an equally exciting product in terms of design, with much better quality

    To the list I would gladly even add Allen Edmonds. I am serious. To which I would even add Kiton (though more expensive). Grief, did I write that....??? At least they are both Goodyear welted.

    I tried on some Berlutis in NYC at Barney's as well as the Berluti stores and I agree that the quality simply fails to justify the absurd price.
     
  11. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    Sator, the artisan hater. [​IMG]

    So you would prefer AE to Kiton? That's a new level of ridiculousness in your hatred of the Kiton brand.
     
  12. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    Rubbish. She has been a strong influence on the firm and basically served as head of operations for many years. She has also developed many of the trademark Berluti processes like the patina/polishing and Swann Club.

    I don't mind if members don't care for Berluti but at least get your facts right.
     
  13. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Sator, the artisan hater. [​IMG]

    So you would prefer AE to Kiton? That's a new level of ridiculousness in your hatred of the Kiton brand.


    NO! NO! I didn't say I hate Kiton shoes. I just said I prefer them to Berluti. That's all. OK. If you want to read into this that I hate Berluti so much that it makes my attitude towards Kiton seem like Eternal and Unconditional Love, then so be it [​IMG]

    But what I did say is that I prefer AEs to Berlutis because they are at least Goodyear welted, wearable and unobtrusively styled.
     
  14. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    Oh well that's different. It was confusing how you wrote it. I also would prefer Kiton to Berluti.

    There are some Berluti that are Goodyear welted so I think it depends on the shoe. Their bespoke shoes are very well made.
     
  15. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Rubbish. She has been a strong influence on the firm and basically served as head of operations for many years. She has also developed many of the trademark Berluti processes like the patina/polishing and Swann Club.

    I don't mind if members don't care for Berluti but at least get your facts right.


    Is the Swann Club really a Berluti process? It's a mythical group of people who get together to shine shoes; according to Berluti PR, it came about more or less on its own.

    According to Berluti PR, Olga is the only woman shoemaker in the world, which is certainly not true, and I would be stunned if she's actually worked on a shoe in years. That's a given, the way that the heads of tailoring firms may serve apprenticeships before moving into head office. Clearly, what she brings to it now is a powerful brand image, uttering mystifying... utterances. My impression is that she was very, very influential in developing some of Berluti's extremely influential styles, such as the piercings and tatoues, and that she may have particpated in the development of Berluti as a flashy, multicolored shoe rather than as the rather conservative shoe Alan Flusser wrote about 20 years ago in Making the Man. Of course, now that Berluti is embarking on worldwide expansion, the colors are being damped down to choices of browns and blacks, since the others require more personalized attention and service. However, if the "Indio" is any indication of where Olga's at currently, she probably should step away from the helm for a while.
     
  16. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Oh well that's different. It was confusing how you wrote it. I also would prefer Kiton to Berluti.

    There are some Berluti that are Goodyear welted so I think it depends on the shoe. Their bespoke shoes are very well made.


    In the Madison Ave Berluti store they even have a cut open shoe proudly displaying the Blake construction! I was aghast and amazed. I even saw a pair of Berlutis that I actually liked. It was their wholecut in plain and sleek black. I thought that it was a very conservative and tasteful shoe. But when I gave it a bit of thought, I just couldn't possibly justify paying that price for a Blake construction shoe. I ended up buying some JM Westons insteads.

    BTW I would never buy Kiton shoes at full price either - way overpriced as well as overstylised. The same problem that afflicts the majority of Berlutis. But as someone who reactes to most 'shoe porn' with horror, I admit such things are perhaps a matter of taste.
     
  17. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    Gee aren't we being picky. Sure, the Swann Club is a bit of an event but Olga certainly was the inspiration for it based on what I have read and heard from store managers. This firm pre-LVMH was very identified with Olga and she effectively ran the show. I'm not sure how you get to a statement that "she has very little to do with the Berluti family and their heritage of craftsmanship. "
     
  18. stilmacher

    stilmacher Senior member

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    Rubbish yourself Artisan. When you claim that some of the Berluti ready to wear shoes are goodyear welted you make very clear who hasn't checked his facts. If Olga Berluti developed the patina for her shoes she might be a good painter but it does not make her a shoe-maker.
    She is a marketing genius (-> artisan fan posts above) but she has little to do with shoe-making. Trust me on this, I know for fact.
     
  19. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    I have seen Goodyear welted shoes in the London store on several occasions.

    I've personally (with my own eyes) seen her get very involved with the measurement of customer's feet and the final stage of polishing on a pair of bespoke shoes. Like any good owner of a small business she is also good at sales.
     
  20. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Rubbish yourself Artisan. When you claim that some of the Berluti ready to wear shoes are goodyear welted you make very clear who hasn't checked his facts. If Olga Berluti developed the patina for her shoes she might be a good painter but it does not make her a shoe-maker.
    She is a marketing genius (-> artisan frn posts above) but she has little to do with shoe-making. Trust me on this, I know for fact.

    To be fair, the Berluti site used to say that some of their RTW was Goodyear, Africa, Ferrarese or Bentivegna (?) welted.
     

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