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The Berluti shoe thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by A Harris, Sep 3, 2006.

  1. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    This is not quite correct. The traditional (English) pump stitch doesn't have a welt, that is true. However, as opposed to a Blake stitch, which goes vertically through the insole and into the interior of the shoe, the pump stitch goes through holes made parallel to the surface of the insole. Definitely not a stitch many 'makers' still are good at doing. I believe Bengal bought a second-hand pair of Lobb St James pumps, and the soles were just glued on, no pump stitch used. There is a fellow up in Scotland who is the specialist in this, but I know at least one other maker (in addition to James Ducker) who can do this stitch.
     
  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here are a few pictures (posted previously) which show the the pump-stitch.Both insole and outsole are perforated with the awl to half thickness and the stitching meanders in and out of a tunnel without being visible on either sole:


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Apart from the old boy in Edinburgh who specializes in pump-stitch, there a few more shoemakers who can do it, but they do it so rarely that they, inevitably, will be out of their comfort zone.
     
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Blake stitch done by hand is properly a "channel stitch."

    I may have contributed to the confusion due to a misunderstanding/misreading of Garsault's 1767 (when pumps were perhaps more common) Art du Cordonnier where he refers, IIRC, to a "channel pump stitch."
     
  4. asturiano

    asturiano Senior member

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    So a pump stitch in essence is a tunnel stitch? If that is the case the strength of the shoe will be determined by how we maintain the sole/insole?
    Also I guess there is not possibility to resole in a such a shoe
     
  5. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    Well, a pump stitch is used for light duty shoes that are to be worn around the house and, perhaps, to the occasional formal occasion (depending on the style). They are not designed for heavy use in walking outdoors, etc., so wear should be minimal. Perhaps the heaviest wear would come from dancing! If the shoe is properly made, then the stitches are protected by the outsole and insole (it is at the interface where the two meet), so absent heavy wear or abuse there should be no need for special treatment of the insole and outsole. Note that there are two ends to the thread, so that the two ends are alternatingly weaving in/out of the insole and outsole.

    The shoe should be able to be resoled -- a new outsole would be put on in the exact same manner as the original. I should think you would need the original last to do this in a quality way. Also, someone who knows how to do it, which is becoming rarer by the year.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  6. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Last edited: Jun 20, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  7. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored

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  8. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Berluti rue Marbeuf...

    [​IMG]

    looks familiar ...

    [​IMG]

    DELOS Constance model now available in RTW (and in the Lasbar color).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  9. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    I arrive in Paris on the last day of the sales in January.

    Does anyone know if Berluti actually take part in the sales?
     
  10. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Berluti, like other LVMH companies, pride themselves never to take part in the sales and never to reduce their merchandise.

    But for the last few sales (at least in London, don't know about Paris), Berluti had significant mark-downs on their clothing collection
    (but not on their shoes).
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2015
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  11. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Thanks Bengal. That's what I was hoping. I have more than enough shoes.
     
  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    I have more than enough shoes and I want to buy more. :(
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    I am at the point now that I can't choose which ones to wear.

    And it will only get worse when three new pairs arrive from Aubercy shortly.

    I don't think I will buy new shoes for a long time.
     
  14. cesco10

    cesco10 Active Member

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    These are my three pairs of Berluti: two Leonard boots (St Emilion and special order) and a Playtime sneakers. I'm waiting my last pair called Alessio that are now in atelier for a patina review.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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  16. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    PG never mentioned anything about JLParis. Can't settle on PR fees?
     
  17. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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  18. hedonist222

    hedonist222 Senior member

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    How Much a shoe, whether a wholecut or a loafer, will almost entirely, in my experience, depend on you :

    How much 'step' you enforce into your step

    &

    How you lay your feet while at rest


    If conscience enough, you can reduce creases significantly.
     
  19. hedonist222

    hedonist222 Senior member

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    Some Andy for your visual pleasure:

    [​IMG][/URL]

    [​IMG][/URL]
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Are those boots comfortable?

    I have some G & G Burnham and they are my most comfortable footwear.
     

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