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The Berluti shoe thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by A Harris, Sep 3, 2006.

  1. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    sage
    To be fair, the construction on Corthay is better than Berluti or FAM. It is truly top notch.
    [​IMG] Depending on the Santoni FAM.... if it is the orange socked Blake, I would agree. But then there are the goodyear and the norvogese which are very nicely made... the newer stylings are rather extreme, but they are well made nontheless.
     
  2. stilmacher

    stilmacher Senior member

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    I am sorry, but I have to differ. I have not seen a pair of Santonis (not even those from their limited edition line) that are made with the same eye for perfection and delicacy as the shoes from Corthay. Let styling be a different issue...
     
  3. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    I am sorry, but I have to differ. I have not seen a pair of Santonis (not even those from their limited edition line) that are made with the same eye for perfection and delicacy as the shoes from Corthay. Let styling be a different issue...

    Indeed, styling is a different issue if you read my post above. If you had a chance to look at the workmanship of Santoni's non blake shoes at their Rome or Milan stores, I would rate the quality highly. And depending on the limited edition line (most of which is a gimmick), some are very well made.
     
  4. dkzzzz

    dkzzzz Senior member

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    Did you not describe these KC shoes that you own as "cool"? I can see why they are still available for 30 dollars. I think I will always be opposite of you when it comes to shoe style my friend. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    We all make stylistically questionable choices in life. The difference is I recognise mine.
     
  5. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    Indeed, styling is a different issue if you read my post above. If you had a chance to look at the workmanship of Santoni's non blake shoes at their Rome or Milan stores, I would rate the quality highly. And depending on the limited edition line (most of which is a gimmick), some are very well made.

    I think T4 Phage's point is that the conclusions on construction are really splitting damn hairs at this point. But I can see stil's point on Corthays where he's actually been to the store and has witnessed the shoe making in the factory. Such personal experience will inevitably give you a different perspective on the maker.
     
  6. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    +1
     
  7. dkzzzz

    dkzzzz Senior member

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  8. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

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    another reason why i like santoni fam is that they are aggressive and stylized.
    yeah some people hate them with a passion, why? i dont know,

    but i have room enough in my proverbial wardrobe for a couple of pairs of these.

    i dont narrow my perspective on shoe taste; doesnt mean i dont like understated english conservative looks.

    i have room for both. but i wouldnt want to have a wardrobe full of only serene looking, conservative, muted, understated english elegance. life is large enough for any man to like and encompass both types of shoe styles. sheesh.
     
  9. nmoraitis

    nmoraitis Senior member

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    another reason why i like santoni fam is that they are aggressive and stylized.
    yeah some people hate them with a passion, why? i dont know,

    but i have room enough in my proverbial wardrobe for a couple of pairs of these.

    i dont narrow my perspective on shoe taste; doesnt mean i dont like understated english conservative looks.

    i have room for both. but i wouldnt want to have a wardrobe full of only serene looking, conservative, muted, understated english elegance. life is large enough for any man to like and encompass both types of shoe styles. sheesh.


    Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but I completely agree. Why limit myself to only a couple types/styles when I can enjoy all of them? Well said diorshoe.
     
  10. ABALO

    ABALO Senior member

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    Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but I completely agree. Why limit myself to only a couple types/styles when I can enjoy all of them? Well said diorshoe.


    Cohesion maybe ??
     
  11. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Normally the name of Berluti is always quite controversial on every fashion forums i have been to....
    I do own Berluti RTW and i do know their limits in terms of quality but Berluti bespoke is up there with the best....
    Berluti is the most creative shoemakers in the world and they introduced us to different patinas being acceptable on our shoes...
    On the negative side ,certain models are very challenging (too much for me to be honest!!!!!) and they suffer from an "esprit de chapelle" making them a bit snobish and up themselves...
    The Venezia leather is also to fragile to my liking being a Lobbist...
    Corthay is very interesting and very creative....The workmanship is very very high and the model are welll made ....Not my cup of tea in terms of shapes but i do respect the brothers because they're real artisans with vision and passion...
    Anthony Delos is very good ...He was trained in John Lobb workshops and is the perfect mix between a French artisan with vision and skills and the British sense of measure and elegance...
    He is making me two pairs of bespoke at the moment and i would recommend him over a lot of more famous names of this forum....
    Dimitri Gomez is also excellent.and starting to be worlwide reconition.....
    On the Italian versus British debate ,even if i do prefer Italian tailors than their English counterparts ,i do not like Italian shoes.....
    I love hybrid modelssuch asDelos orDimitri Gomez because they mix English sense of elegancewithsome Latin twist making their shoes as beautiful as well constructed....
     
  12. stilmacher

    stilmacher Senior member

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    Anthony Delos is very good ...He was trained in John Lobb workshops and is the perfect mix between a French artisan with vision and skills and the British sense of measure and elegance...


    Pierre Corthay is even more so. He was trained at and worked for John Lobb and went on to be senior craftsman at Berluti. I actually think one can tell by the shoes he makes. The good of Berlutis styling paired with Lobbs quality...
     
  13. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    To be perfectly honest ,Anthony Delos told me himself that Dimitri Gomez is one of the best in the world at the moment!!!!!!!!!!![​IMG]
    I do like Anthony because he is not catty or bitchy ....
    He has got a lot of respect for others such Gaziano and Corthay and i do like this quality in a man....
    Learning from others and appreciating their works will make him better every year....
    I do think that Corthay,Gomez ,DelosandGaziano are the best with the Japanese masters such asSuzuki and others...
     
  14. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    To be perfectly honest ,Anthony Delos told me himself that Dimitri Gomez is one of the best in the world at the moment!!!!!!!!!!![​IMG]
    So did Corthay, if I remember right.
    Lascar, perhaps a little lesson in semantics is in order. Iammatt (or, I guess, me)=catty. LabelKing=bitchy. See the difference?
     
  15. Harrydog

    Harrydog Senior member

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    I checked my Ultimas and they seem to be blake.
    As for the design, no one can tell me that these:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    are not beautiful shoes!


    Most of these look photographed right out of the box. The first one has definitely not been worn.

    If durability is the issue here, pics of shoes that have been worn two dozen times would be far more helpful.

    That would make a great thread for shoe comparison. Run a picture sequence of frequently worn shoes.
     
  16. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    I do think that Corthay,Gomez ,DelosandGaziano are the best with the Japanese masters such asSuzuki and others...

    When you neglect Vass, Kielman, Januszkiewicz, Kleman, Hirmer, Riedl, Balint, Scheer, Maftei, Materna etc. you may be right.
     
  17. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    So did Corthay, if I remember right.Lascar, perhaps a little lesson in semantics is in order.

    Roberto Ugolini in Florence thought that my Gomez shoes were as nicely made as anything he had ever seen. There seems to be a pattern.
     
  18. ABALO

    ABALO Senior member

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    Most of these look photographed right out of the box. The first one has definitely not been worn.

    If durability is the issue here, pics of shoes that have been worn two dozen times would be far more helpful.

    That would make a great thread for shoe comparison. Run a picture sequence of frequently worn shoes.



    Then let's show some G&G as well, 2-3 years old, without the shoe trees...
    For an even greater thread on shoe comparison [​IMG]
     
  19. Harrydog

    Harrydog Senior member

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    Then let's show some G&G as well, 2-3 years old, without the shoe trees...
    For an even greater thread on shoe comparison [​IMG]



    Sounds good....that is the whole point...we can call it "old shoe porn."
     
  20. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Dimitri Gomez is a fantastic shoe designer and everybody in the shoe world will tell you the same thing about him..
    I'm sorry if i did offend some Vass followers but i'm not unfortunately a big fan....
    I do try to talk about designers i do know but i'm open-minded on new styles...
     

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