The Artist is Absent: The Official Maison Martin Margiela Thread

[Fycus]

Just a heads up for those interested. The 5zip this season is made in India. Quality seems okay, but all the hardware and some of the cutting on the pattern has massive shortcuts compared to earlier iterations. I'm pretty furious considering they're asking the same price, but I guess I can't be too miffed because I got it at a heavy discount. Part and parcel to the diesel acquisition is my guess, just disappointing to see the iconic pieces outsourced to literally the cheapest place on Earth to make leather.

 

[dieworkwear]

the pattern has massive shortcuts compared to earlier iterations.

What are the shortcuts?

 

[Fycus]

At the cuffs and hems they stitch the hem to finish two pieces of leather rather than fold over and have a hidden stitch. Basically seams everywhere where it should be clean. Stuff you'd see on a 300-400 dollar leather but not a 2000 dollar leather. Also the hardware is unbranded generic and probably not even ykk, and the leather is the most unremarkable sheep I've seen ever released on the model (having owned 2 before and sold for idiotic reasons)

Old style (clean hems and cuffs):

 

[dieworkwear]

At the cuffs and hems they stitch the hem to finish two pieces of leather rather than fold over and have a hidden stitch. Basically seams everywhere where it should be clean. Stuff you'd see on a 300-400 dollar leather but not a 2000 dollar leather. Also the hardware is unbranded generic and probably not even ykk, and the leather is the most unremarkable sheep I've seen ever released on the model (having owned 2 before and sold for idiotic reasons)

Old style (clean hems and cuffs):

They've been using that single needle stitch for a while. I have a five-zip from 2013, which has a folded back leather cuff. That one was made in Romania. I have four others that have a single needle stitch on the cuff, but it's done neatly and on the edge. One is made in Italy (haven't checked country of origin tags on the others). I suspect some others are simply too thick to fold over -- at least that's the main point of difference I can see on my five five-zips. The one made from the thinnest leather has a folded back cuff, the others have a single needle stitch.

I don't know if that's really a "massive shortcut in pattern." Seems like it could come out for any number of reasons like that, not just because of cost.

All of mine have unbranded zippers. Personally wouldn't want zipper branding on a minimalist style jacket.

Basically seams everywhere where it should be clean.

Where else do you see new stitching besides the cuff?

 

[JSAN]

I have a 1st season Galliano era with chunky M8 Riri zippers, and made in Italy.

 

[RegisDB9]

Kind of a “click that like button” YouTube video but pretty informative, I had no idea the coolest Tabi Heels were just a sole and came with tape so the wearer could tape their feet on to the sole......Margiela man

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[Purplelabel]

I'm getting into MMM and I picked these up the other day from a thrift (granted, to re-sell as they don't fit) what season are they from? Also, if anyone can point me in the right direction on how to determine the season Margiela pieces are from that'd be amazing.

 

[baltimoron]

Spring summer 2007. Last 3 digits of comm line = year + season. 1 for spring, 2 for fall

 

[Spehsmonkey]

“click that like button” YouTube video​

You don’t have to pronounce croissant or karaoke like you’re French or Japanese, but “Mason Marjella Tabby Boots” is just going too far, especially in a video where you’re supposedly dropping some knowledge.

 

[Purplelabel]

Spring summer 2007. Last 3 digits of comm line = year + season. 1 for spring, 2 for fall

More than grateful, thank you.

 

[ghdvfddzgzdzg]

I did feel funny about dude saying "mason" like Martin was a bricklayer. ...Tell me how I should be pronouncing tabi though.

 

[Vegard]

Love this thread! So much knowledge and great info!


Searching for these in a 46-12uk-13us. Anyone here tried these or own a pair?

 

[baltimoron]

margiela 99aw wool apron

 

[robinsongreen68]

i too would like to know how to pronounce tabby

 

[NycLondon]

This is an amazing, almost scholarly thread. I was lucky enough to see the Martin Margiela retrospective last April (2018) in Paris. Before this exhibition, which was comprehensive, I had known about him as an "important" designer, but not really appreciated his work. While I still prefer Yohji and Issey to wear, I now appreciate his intellectual contribution.