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The Armoury - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by yfyf, Oct 18, 2010.

  1. yfyf

    yfyf Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Which shoe is the split toe one in this pic, the one next to the split toe boot PG's pic from his brog [​IMG]
    Can't remember off the top of my head, but the G&G MH71 last Hove may be a good fit if you're looking for a split toe that's also a bit wider. I bought a pair a few years back from Leffot, still going strong. edit: just checked, the Hove is different on the side, the shoe pictured is the Isham but on an MH71 last rather than the round toe picture on G&G's website. http://www.gazianogirling.com/isham.html
     
  2. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Sanguis: we'll get a little diagram up showing how the chest is measured, the charts are correct, though.

    Thanks. Just for comparison, the chest measurement listed for Howard Yount's size 44 jackets is 36", which is a full 6+ inches smaller than your measurements, and is more in line with the size I would expect an EU44 to be (around 36-39").
     
  3. yfyf

    yfyf Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thanks. Just for comparison, the chest measurement listed for Howard Yount's size 44 jackets is 36", which is a full 6+ inches smaller than your measurements, and is more in line with the size I would expect an EU44 to be (around 36-39").

    Ok, here we go:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. yfyf

    yfyf Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    You can thank Patrick at WW Chan for that diagram.

    A rough rule of thumb for how much bigger a jacket's chest should be compared with a a person's chest measurement is 3 to 6" depending on other factors like girth. For instance, when tailors draft a pattern from measurements, they will make the jacket chest 3 to 6" larger. If you measured up as a 36 inch chest and you had a 38 inch jacket chest measurement, you may find it pretty snug. I guess in an ideal world, you should be taking the jacket chest measurement that you think is right for you rather than the jacket's tagged size.

    We will have a few more photos tomorrow showing Alan, in a couple of sizes so you can get an idea of how the jackets fit. In general though, if you normally buy 36/46, then the RJ 46 should be fine. It doesn't "wear big" so to speak. As for the size 44 having a 42" chest, well, that is what the sizing chart reports and how the jacket measures up too. Grading is a weird science.
     
  5. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    Can you supply some measurements for the Grenfell coats, both the Mac and Trench?
     
  6. yfyf

    yfyf Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Can you supply some measurements for the Grenfell coats, both the Mac and Trench?

    Working on it, Christmas season means a lot of offices are a bit unresponsive.
     
  7. mpickens8982

    mpickens8982 Active Member

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  8. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    Is that the Vintage Cherry color on the St. James? [​IMG]
     
  9. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    Is that the Vintage Cherry color on the St. James? [​IMG]

    Not sure about the color but the last on the shoes in the two top pictures is great. Looks to be the G606 (correct me if I am wrong)
     
  10. Fraiche

    Fraiche Senior member

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    Is that the Vintage Cherry color on the St. James? [​IMG]

    What's the color of the bottom two shoes?
     
  11. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Was Sinndom, Now is Rolexdom
    regent GG06 expresso calf, oxford GG06 black calf
    st james 2 MH71 vintage cherry, rothchild DG 70 "not sure on color" chestnut or cedar Mark will know

    edit; if you ask nicely i can post the bigger pictures [​IMG]
     
  12. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    The black oxford is super nice
     
  13. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Is GG606 last similar to 202 EG last?
     
  14. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is GG606 last similar to 202 EG last?

    less stumpier from my expirance!
     
  15. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    Back On Here
    Great service from the Armoury on my recent purchases, thanks!

    Question: are Carmina shoe trees available? Couldn't find any info on the site.
     
  16. ZengaGent

    ZengaGent Senior member

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    Hi Mark and company,

    I understand that Ethan Newton is with you guys at present, so being a once-customer of his, I'd also like to he: Hello there, mate!

    Wonder if someone could help me out here:

    In terms of jacket length, how does a Size 48, Model 184 jacket compare with a size 38 jacket in the Herringbone Osaka cut? Is it longer or shorter. I'm asking because right now, the 38 Osaka cut fits me pretty much spot on; any longer though and the jacket would be too long, but slightly shorter (1 cm or two) would be okay.

    Are there any other significant differences - pants included - between the two?

    Am seriously considering the buying the 184 Charcoal suit in the next few weeks; love the fact that the sleeves come unfinished.

    Thanks for your help in advance.

    Cheers
    Ryan
     
  17. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    Shoe trees aren't available yet. Carmina does not offer any lasted trees so we have been looking around for a good tree supplier.
    Hi Mark and company, I understand that Ethan Newton is with you guys at present, so being a once-customer of his, I'd also like to he: Hello there, mate! Wonder if someone could help me out here: In terms of jacket length, how does a Size 48, Model 184 jacket compare with a size 38 jacket in the Herringbone Osaka cut? Is it longer or shorter. I'm asking because right now, the 38 Osaka cut fits me pretty much spot on; any longer though and the jacket would be too long, but slightly shorter (1 cm or two) would be okay. Are there any other significant differences - pants included - between the two? Am seriously considering the buying the 184 Charcoal suit in the next few weeks; love the fact that the sleeves come unfinished. Thanks for your help in advance. Cheers Ryan
    Checking and will get back to you
     
  18. ethandesu

    ethandesu Senior member

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    Hong Kong
    Hey Ryan,
    The 184 looks pretty much like an unadulterated version of the Osaka - what it would have been at RJ before we made it Australianised. Judging by a 52 - I only have my own Osaka jackets here - the length seems about the same, but overall the body is slightly slimmer. From memory I was trimming down the jackets on you, so I think the RJ 184 should be fine.

    Desu
     
  19. yfyf

    yfyf Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Great service from the Armoury on my recent purchases, thanks! Question: are Carmina shoe trees available? Couldn't find any info on the site.
    Unfortunately not available through us. They are nice so we got a few in for store display but they are a bit pricey for what they are so we chose not to sell them.
     
  20. pinchi22

    pinchi22 Senior member

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    Oct 5, 2004
    Location:
    Spain, California
    Where does Carmina sit in the hierarchy of high end shoes (Crockett and Jones bench and handgrade, Edward Green, Vass)?

    IMHO, better than C&J benchgrades, very close to C&J handgrades, not quite equal to Edward Green.
     

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