The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[Andy57]

I suppose it all depends how you want the photos to function. This may come as a surprise to some of you, but not everyone commissions bespoke clothing to wear for the internet.

No, that's totally what I do.

 

[dieworkwear]

For those in Southern California, Steed is adding Los Angeles to their US trunk show tour. The first visit will be on January 24th, which is a Friday. The trunk show will be happening all day. They'll also be available on Saturday, January 25th from 9am until noon. The trunk show is happening at the InterContinental Century City in Beverly Hills.

The other trunk show dates are also available right now on their website:

Steed Home | Steed Bespoke Tailors

Savile Row Tailoring Bespoke Tailors For Savile Row Gentlemen Book An Appointment Soft, understated elegance The Steed Difference At Steed, you deal directly with Edwin and Matthew, Savile Row Bespoke Cutters rather than a sales representative or middle man. They believe when...

steed.co.uk

 

[sugarbutch]

I will never see @jcmeyer again...

 

[comrade]

Happens more often than we think.

Or not picking up their commissions. That's how Sartoriale presumably gets new bespoke
(supposedly) clothing which they sell.

 

[jaywhyy]

Any examples of Steed MTM (or semibespoke)? I understand they are factory-made full-canvas, but any handwork in them at all?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Mr. Six's suit is MTM.

 

[smittycl]

Any examples of Steed MTM (or semibespoke)? I understand they are factory-made full-canvas, but any handwork in them at all?

I have one in a Fox Bros. flannel. Very well made although I can't speak to the handwork.

 

[bourbonbasted]

Any examples of Steed MTM (or semibespoke)? I understand they are factory-made full-canvas, but any handwork in them at all?

Just received a MTM suit from the Steed boys. It appears to be wholly machine made. Or perhaps I should say, if there is handiwork, it's not "showcased" in the construction/details. There is also a noticeable difference in how the jackets and pants "wear" vs. bespoke, meaning they feel a lot more rigid. That's not necessarily a bad thing (I love the way my jacket fits), but it's also not the louche, soft, drapey feel I've found with their bespoke stuff. It feels machine-made, if that makes sense (which, again, is not a big deal to me, but there is discernible difference).

Not sure I've done a great job explaining, but there is a definite difference in feel. We shall see how it breaks in (I find their bespoke stuff needs to hang/be worn for a while before it finds its shape).

 

[bdavro23]

Just received a MTM suit from the Steed boys. It appears to be wholly machine made. Or perhaps I should say, if there is handiwork, it's not "showcased" in the construction/details. There is also a noticeable difference in how the jackets and pants "wear" vs. bespoke, meaning they feel a lot more rigid. That's not necessarily a bad thing (I love the way my jacket fits), but it's also not the louche, soft, drapey feel I've found with their bespoke stuff. It feels machine-made, if that makes sense (which, again, is not a big deal to me, but there is discernible difference).

Not sure I've done a great job explaining, but there is a definite difference in feel. We shall see how it breaks in (I find their bespoke stuff needs to hang/be worn for a while before it finds its shape).

Cloth can make a pretty big difference. My MTM stuff is pretty consistent in dimension and my pattern has been locked down for a while. I just made myself jacket in a lambswool/ cashmere and a suit in wool/ mohair. While the pattern is the same, the feel of the garments is very different and if I do mohair again, I'll give it a little more ease.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Just received a MTM suit from the Steed boys. It appears to be wholly machine made. Or perhaps I should say, if there is handiwork, it's not "showcased" in the construction/details. There is also a noticeable difference in how the jackets and pants "wear" vs. bespoke, meaning they feel a lot more rigid. That's not necessarily a bad thing (I love the way my jacket fits), but it's also not the louche, soft, drapey feel I've found with their bespoke stuff. It feels machine-made, if that makes sense (which, again, is not a big deal to me, but there is discernible difference).

Not sure I've done a great job explaining, but there is a definite difference in feel. We shall see how it breaks in (I find their bespoke stuff needs to hang/be worn for a while before it finds its shape).

Are you saying that there aren't hand made buttonholes and pick stitching details?

I'm curious what is actually hand done on a bespoke Steed suit. It seems most suits that are hand done pretty much just include hand padstitching, but largely the rest is a machine, granted a person at a sewing machine, not a churn out factory.

 

[bourbonbasted]

Cloth can make a pretty big difference. My MTM stuff is pretty consistent in dimension and my pattern has been locked down for a while. I just made myself jacket in a lambswool/ cashmere and a suit in wool/ mohair. While the pattern is the same, the feel of the garments is very different and if I do mohair again, I'll give it a little more ease.

Definitely. I've done a few bespoke suits and sportcoats, so the pattern/fit was surprisingly really good. The cloth is 50/50 wool/linen, so it's entirely possible it's the feel of a lighter cloth that's creating the distinction. Still, the overall construction doesn't wear the same (which is to be expected, as their bespoke stuff features handiwork/construction to the SR standard).

 

[bourbonbasted]

Are you saying that there aren't hand made buttonholes and pick stitching details?

I'm curious what is actually hand done on a bespoke Steed suit. It seems most suits that are hand done pretty much just include hand padstitching, but largely the rest is a machine, granted a person at a sewing machine, not a churn out factory.

I'll need to have a look at the coat when I get back to the house, and I'm sure others can weigh in.

TBH I'm likely the worst person to ask about such details. So long as it checks my boxes from a fit/design perspective, I rarely latch onto the small things (this is one of the reasons I felt MTM would be a good for me).

 

[9thsymph]

Are you saying that there aren't hand made buttonholes and pick stitching details?

I'm curious what is actually hand done on a bespoke Steed suit. It seems most suits that are hand done pretty much just include hand padstitching, but largely the rest is a machine, granted a person at a sewing machine, not a churn out factory.

From their website: "Being Handmade Bespoke means that every stage of the process is done by hand and therefore can be given the greatest amount of customization and attention to detail possible."

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Ok, collar, that makes sense, that's typical of a bespoke jacket. Nobody is hand stitching long seams though. I'm just curious if their MTM has the aesthetic stuff hand done like buttonholes, pick stitching and the like.

 

[smittycl]

Just received a MTM suit from the Steed boys. It appears to be wholly machine made. Or perhaps I should say, if there is handiwork, it's not "showcased" in the construction/details. There is also a noticeable difference in how the jackets and pants "wear" vs. bespoke, meaning they feel a lot more rigid. That's not necessarily a bad thing (I love the way my jacket fits), but it's also not the louche, soft, drapey feel I've found with their bespoke stuff. It feels machine-made, if that makes sense (which, again, is not a big deal to me, but there is discernible difference).

Not sure I've done a great job explaining, but there is a definite difference in feel. We shall see how it breaks in (I find their bespoke stuff needs to hang/be worn for a while before it finds its shape).

Mine is a bit stiff as well and I expect will take at least a season to break in. I just started wearing it a few weeks ago when the weather turned. I don't think I'll do MTM at that price point anymore. Will stick to RTW and maybe go all-in for bespoke if something special comes to mind.