The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[corpseposeur]

I will be getting my first bespoke jacket from Redmayne. I like my Redmayne MTM coats but they were always meant to be utilitarian. While they are soft and comfortable, they don't quite have the "romance" of the bespoke A&S style and I've been quite captured by that recently.

I think I've been very much inspired by Tom's own bespoke jackets as well as Daniel Day-Lewis' Anderson and Sheppard coats in The Phantom Thread.

I had a swatch of this Moonbeam fabric. Tom seems to feel that this is the one to go with.

After looking for this fabric online I found this photo of a WW Chan jacket as a reference for how it makes up. I think it will be a very cozy versatile sweater like fabric.

And styling wise it will likely look like this example from Stephen Hitchcock.Incidentally, the second fabric option I was weighing was a high-twist mesh which is what this jacket is made of.

 

[Mark from Plano]

I have this jacket in Moonbeam from Steed that has become one of my favorites. The soft hand coupled with the drape-y cut is just perfect.

 

[classicalthunde]

I will be getting my first bespoke jacket from Redmayne. I like my Redmayne MTM coats but they were always meant to be utilitarian. While they are soft and comfortable, they don't quite have the "romance" of the bespoke A&S style and I've been quite captured by that recently.

I think I've been very much inspired by Tom's own bespoke jackets as well as Daniel Day-Lewis' Anderson and Sheppard coats in The Phantom Thread.

damn, now you got me over here thinking Moonbeam instead of Fox Bros hopsack for a non-blazer navy sport coat.

Seeing that you've done both Steed and Redmayne MTM and that you're in NYC with a lot of traveling tailor options (Hitchcock included), would you mind sharing your thought process in choosing Redmayne over the other available options?

I have this jacket in Moonbeam from Steed that has become one of my favorites.

Would you mind commenting on how Moonbeam wears compared to a standard wool hospack? I take it you're in Texas...is it something that you can wear throughout a good chunk of the year?

 

[Mark from Plano]

Would you mind commenting on how Moonbeam wears compared to a standard wool hospack? I take it you're in Texas...is it something that you can wear throughout a good chunk of the year?

It’s definitely a spring/fall/winter fabric. I initially came in asking for tweed and Matthew guided me to this. I just love the fit and feel of it so much that sometimes I push the boundaries a bit.

I wore it yesterday, although to be honest I should put it away until September or so. For me it’s comfortable enough if temperatures are below 90F. YMMV.

 

[corpseposeur]

damn, now you got me over here thinking Moonbeam instead of Fox Bros hopsack for a non-blazer navy sport coat.

Seeing that you've done both Steed and Redmayne MTM and that you're in NYC with a lot of traveling tailor options (Hitchcock included), would you mind sharing your thought process in choosing Redmayne over the other available options?

Good question. I was going back and forth between two similar but different tailors: Vestrucci which is based in NYC and Redmayne's. And yes Steed and Hitchcock are options when it comes to soft tailoring.

Vestrucci are really great and would be a lot easier since they're local to me in NY. Initially I was considering a summer linen coat which I think Italian tailors tend to do better than English tailor since they use less structure. But after some thought their silhouette is a bit more dramatic, especially the lapels and I wanted something a bit more understated.I may come back around at some point but after doing the math Redmayne's bespoke and Vestrucci's MTM are comparable in pricing.

As far as going with Tom over the other soft tailors. It's a matter of familiarity than anything else. He's gotten my MTM jackets done very well over the pandemic and he has enough of my measurements for a first fitting whenever travel to the US starts back up. I also like his particular bespoke style. I'm not sure what the technical aspects are, but his lapels flow very nicely, there's drape but it's a bit neater at the armholes. Also, I feel Tom already knows me and what I do and how I will use the garments so I think I'll really just let him do his thing without nitpicking, which is probably the best way for bespoke.

I like soft tailoring for jackets but I prefer a more structured look for suits so if I was having a suit made, Kent & Haste are always on the top of my list. Meyer and Mortimer and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury are also options I consider.

I enjoy his social media updates and Redmayne's been very good about service and answering questions. Some other tailors I've contacted have not been as communicative or as attentive.

That particular Moonbeam fabric has an open weave--almost like a knit than a hopsack. I like it because it's a bit more casual so I can wear it with open collar shirts and sweaters and pair with dress pants and cotton pants as well. I don't really like the t-shirt and jacket look myself, but it could do that as well.

I'm hoping it would be comfortable in warm weather but I've also come to the conclusion that in 80F+ heat and humidity, I'm just going to abstain from a jacket altogether.

 

[TexasDan]

I have a Moonbeam navy jacket from Steed and really love the fabric. As Mark mentioned, it is an ideal fabric for the drape. I have worn mine into early June but don’t have plans to wear again until temps get back to low 80s.

 

[undertheskin]

I want to share with you my first commission from James Whitfield. Fabric is the LL navy blazer thus not purple
Most propably I won't get good fit pics anytime soon so I hope the IG pics give a good impression of his work for now.

 

[lordsuperb]

I want to share with you my first commission from James Whitfield. Fabric is the LL navy blazer thus not purple
Most propably I won't get good fit pics anytime soon so I hope the IG pics give a good impression of his work for now.

 

[undertheskin]

:'(

 

[Texasmade]

Looks pretty purple to me.

 

[nmprisons]

Got an email yesterday from Steed with October travel dates:

Dallas, The Adolphus Hotel - Monday, 4th October 2021

Houston, The Granduca Hotel - Wednesday, 6th October

Los Angeles, The Beverly Wilshere Hotel - Friday, 8th October

San Francisco, The Mark Hopkins Hotel - Sunday, 10th October & Monday, 11th October

Chicago, Sonder Grant Park Apartment - Wednesday, 13th Oct

Washington DC, The Hay Adams Hotel - Friday, 15th October

New York City, The Kimberly Hotel - Monday, 18th Tuesday, 19th & Wednesday, 20th October

Boston, The Boston Hotel Commonwealth - Friday, 22nd October

 

[dieworkwear]

Got an email yesterday from Steed with October travel dates:

Dallas, The Adolphus Hotel - Monday, 4th October 2021

Houston, The Granduca Hotel - Wednesday, 6th October

Los Angeles, The Beverly Wilshere Hotel - Friday, 8th October

San Francisco, The Mark Hopkins Hotel - Sunday, 10th October & Monday, 11th October

Chicago, Sonder Grant Park Apartment - Wednesday, 13th Oct

Washington DC, The Hay Adams Hotel - Friday, 15th October

New York City, The Kimberly Hotel - Monday, 18th Tuesday, 19th & Wednesday, 20th October

Boston, The Boston Hotel Commonwealth - Friday, 22nd October

I received that as well, along with an email from Edward Sexton about September/ October travel dates. But as far as I know, the borders are still closed to Europeans, no?

Perhaps they're banking on things changing by October?

 

[sugarbutch]

The restrictions are on travel directly from Europe. If they're willing to invest the time in an extended layover in a non-restricted country, they can enter:

European travelers frustrated by U.S. restrictions tied to COVID-19

Most of Europe is allowing vaccinated Americans to visit, but the U.S. is retaining its ban on European arrivals.

www.latimes.com

 

[IKant]

I want to share with you my first commission from James Whitfield. Fabric is the LL navy blazer thus not purple
Most propably I won't get good fit pics anytime soon so I hope the IG pics give a good impression of his work for now.

View attachment 1646165
View attachment 1646166

Stunningly beautiful and I love the color.

 

[dieworkwear]

A few A&S expats just posted their trunk show schedules.

I'm posting only the cities so this post doesn't run too long. But if you're in or around one of these cities, and you want to commission something from one of these tailors, you can click the related links to see the full trunk show schedule

Steed Bespoke Tailors

Touring from November 10th until the 19th

Will be visiting Dallas, Houston, San Francisco, and New York City

Matthew at Steed tells me that they're doing a fuller tour in January 2022. That tour will include Dallas, Houston, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago, Washington DC, New York City, and Boston.

US Travel Update - Steed Bespoke Tailors

Travel Update 26/07/2022 We will be traveling to the following cities on the dates provided. Please follow the links to each individual city page for more details such as hotel locations and future trips. September/October Full-Trip Houston – Monday, 26th September Dallas – Wednesday, 28th...

steed.co.uk

Redmayne

For those who may not know, Tom Mahon is now the cutter at Redmayne. I believe he may be overseeing the whole operation, so it basically operates as a cutter-run shop.

Touring from November 9th until the 18th

Will be visiting Atlanta, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Boston, and New York City

USA Visits 2024

Redmayne are coming to the USA in April and May 2024 Locations and dates are detailed below. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions regarding our trip. Atlanta Where Hotel Claremont789 Ponce De Leon Ave. NEAtlantaGA 30306 Visit Site When. Fully Booked.Should you wish to...

redmayne1860.com

Steven Hitchcock

I don't know if he counts as an expat, but he's loosely related to A&S in terms of lineage and style. Note, his website is set up a bit strange and I can't link to a single trunk show page. However, you can find the links for the cities at the top of his website's menu bar

Touring from November 14th until the 23rd

Visiting Los Angeles, Washington DC, and New YOrk City

USA Tour Info - The Savile Row Tailor

Commissining a genuine Savile Row suit in the USA. The best way for ordering a bespoke Savile Row suit overseas. Read more

thesavilerowtailor.co.uk

Anderson & Sheppard

Lastly, Colin at A&S told me that they plan to come over very soon, but I haven't received a schedule yet. I've been told that, instead of doing their usual once-a-year visit to certain cities, they may tour twice in the coming year to make up for lost time.

Trip Calendar - Anderson & Sheppard Savile Row Tailors

. We are pleased to announce our 2024 overseas visits in the calendar below. We hope that our customers, and any of their friends whom they may care to introduce, will be able to take advantage of these trips.

www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk