The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[loarbmhs]

For me, the drape cut is more about the look. I do find my drape cut coats to be more comfortable. But aside from movement, I like how the excess cloth and bit of swelling at the chest give the coat a certain silhouette. Kind of moob-y, but maybe also athletic. Something very romantic about it. At least for me, as I love those old photos of A&S suits.

I'm a little dense. So would you be so kind as to let me know what "moob-y" means? I've not heard the word before. Thanks!

 

[Concordia]

moob (plural moobs) (slang, usually in the plural) A plump or untoned breast on a man.

moob - Wiktionary

 

[loarbmhs]

moob (plural moobs) (slang, usually in the plural) A plump or untoned breast on a man.
moob - Wiktionary

Thanks a million. A: appreciate the clarification. B: glad I don't qualify.

 

[TexasDan]

I have also ordered from Steed via Zoom after it became apparent that they would not be making a fall trip and was happy with the fit. I was quite happy with the fit of the last jacket which was tweaked after their February visit. I have full confidence that if something was off with the fit they would adjust it. They had to recut my first commissions from them from 3 years ago after I dropped 3 inches in chest and 4 in the waist without charge.

Ideally I would wait until they return to US but don’t see that happening in the near future. I will be ordering again via Zoom after the holidays.

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[9thsymph]

Nice one! I enjoy these videos. Interesting for me to finally hear the [English] defense for not sewing the rolled 3rd buttonhole on the opposite side...

 

[sugarbutch]

Lovely jacket

 

[classicalthunde]

I've really enjoyed these videos the past couple of weeks, I think it walks a great line between being technical but also not loosing laymen in the process

Also, it seems like they have a hybrid MTM-bespoke option (MTM with 1 fitting and hand finished) which is seems much more inline with my budget than full bespoke

Has anyone on the thread commissioned anything from Redmayne before?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I have also ordered from Steed via Zoom after it became apparent that they would not be making a fall trip and was happy with the fit. I was quite happy with the fit of the last jacket which was tweaked after their February visit. I have full confidence that if something was off with the fit they would adjust it. They had to recut my first commissions from them from 3 years ago after I dropped 3 inches in chest and 4 in the waist without charge.

Ideally I would wait until they return to US but don’t see that happening in the near future. I will be ordering again via Zoom after the holidays.

Dropping all of those inches isn't very Texas of you Dan! Good job!

 

[circumspice]

I've really enjoyed these videos the past couple of weeks, I think it walks a great line between being technical but also not loosing laymen in the process

Also, it seems like they have a hybrid MTM-bespoke option (MTM with 1 fitting and hand finished) which is seems much more inline with my budget than full bespoke

Has anyone on the thread commissioned anything from Redmayne before?

Paging @Roy Al to the courtesy desk.

I believe he has.

 

[corpseposeur]

Hi everyone, this is my first real post here. I've been following this thread over the past year and I wanted to share the two MTM jackets from Redmayne and Steed that I have had made during the pandemic and some observations as a layperson. These are hardly the best photos but I wanted to share my experience with their respective house cut. On the left, is my most recent addition that arrived today, Redmayne's MTM in an Abraham Moon 13oz Dark Blue Twill. The right is a MTM from Steed in a Holland & Sherry 14oz Hopsack that I received about a year ago. They're both soft and comfortable. The Redmayne feels a bit softer, and has more cutaway foreparts, and trimmer in the waist. Happy to answer any questions about the MTM. MTM services has limitations compared to the bespoke offerings, but I do appreciate that it's faster and less expensive.

 

[classicalthunde]

Hi everyone, this is my first real post here. I've been following this thread over the past year and I wanted to share the two MTM jackets from Redmayne and Steed that I have had made during the pandemic and some observations as a layperson. These are hardly the best photos but I wanted to share my experience with their respective house cut. On the left, is my most recent addition that arrived today, Redmayne's MTM in an Abraham Moon 13oz Dark Blue Twill. The right is a MTM from Steed in a Holland & Sherry 14oz Hopsack that I received about a year ago. They're both soft and comfortable. The Redmayne feels a bit softer, and has more cutaway foreparts, and trimmer in the waist. Happy to answer any questions about the MTM. MTM services has limitations compared to the bespoke offerings, but I do appreciate that it's faster and less expensive.

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For the Redmayne MTM - did you choose the option with the fitting (1860 acclaim) or just the standard MTM?

Which one do you prefer/think fits better?

You mentioned limitations compared to bespoke, did you ask for something they couldn’t accommodate?

did they need any major alterations post delivery? Things like sleeve pitch or bunching on the back by the collar?

 

[corpseposeur]

I've really enjoyed these videos the past couple of weeks, I think it walks a great line between being technical but also not loosing laymen in the process

Also, it seems like they have a hybrid MTM-bespoke option (MTM with 1 fitting and hand finished) which is seems much more inline with my budget than full bespoke

Has anyone on the thread commissioned anything from Redmayne before?

For the Redmayne MTM - did you choose the option with the fitting (1869 acclaim) or just the standard MTM?

Which one do you prefer/think fits better?

You mentioned limitations compared to bespoke, did you ask for something they couldn’t accommodate?

For MTM with Redmayne, I could select any cloth I wanted and I was able to have all of the customizations I wanted--like patch pockets for example and interior pocketing. They offer a full canvas as a standard, I believe Steed's standard is half canvas, but you can get full canvas for a higher cost.

I was also generally happy to defer to Tom's years of experience. I used the standard service as I primarily wanted to get a feel for their house style, but I wanted a workhorse jacket every day kind of jacket. I may have gotten the Acclaim hand-finishing if I were getting a full suit made, but I'm perfectly happy with the standard machine finished jacket. Everything looks like a very good standard of fit and finish. Compared to the alternatives for this price range, I think they're one of the best I've experienced.

It wouldn't be quite fair for me to compare the two as there's a few alterations that the Steed coat needs, but haven't done yet. I also don't like some of the personal choices I made with that coat; I would have done a 2 button instead of 1 and no ticket pocket and with a different fabric--but that's buyer's remorse on my end not their fault. However, when it comes to house style, I think I personally prefer Redmayne's. I feel that it flatters me a bit more, but that's subjective. Many here prefer Steed's cut.

The Redmayne coat was able to address some of those alteration issues as I was able to use the Steed jacket as reference. As far as make, I kind of feel that Redmayne's is a bit softer, which I like, and I like that full-canvas construction is a standard option.

Redmayne's has introduced a suit copying service where they'll send you a pre-paid shipping label. You can send your best fitting jacket or suit or overcoat and they'll take the measurements from the sample, adjust if needed and make a Redmayne style coat. I have found this to be pretty user friendly. I shared photos and video of some of my coats and Tom was able to make some assessments on fit via email and Facetime.

I think Steed has a Zoom fitting option, which I think many on this thread can speak to better than I can.

It is nice to see independent tailors innovating to deal with the pandemic. I'm looking forward to a time when we can travel freely again.

 

[classicalthunde]

For MTM with Redmayne, I could select any cloth I wanted and I was able to have all of the customizations I wanted--like patch pockets for example and interior pocketing. They offer a full canvas as a standard, I believe Steed's standard is half canvas, but you can get full canvas for a higher cost.

I was also generally happy to defer to Tom's years of experience. I used the standard service as I primarily wanted to get a feel for their house style, but I wanted a workhorse jacket every day kind of jacket. I may have gotten the Acclaim hand-finishing if I were getting a full suit made, but I'm perfectly happy with the standard machine finished jacket. Everything looks like a very good standard of fit and finish. Compared to the alternatives for this price range, I think they're one of the best I've experienced.

It wouldn't be quite fair for me to compare the two as there's a few alterations that the Steed coat needs, but haven't done yet. I also don't like some of the personal choices I made with that coat; I would have done a 2 button instead of 1 and no ticket pocket and with a different fabric--but that's buyer's remorse on my end not their fault. However, when it comes to house style, I think I personally prefer Redmayne's. I feel that it flatters me a bit more, but that's subjective. Many here prefer Steed's cut.

The Redmayne coat was able to address some of those alteration issues as I was able to use the Steed jacket as reference. As far as make, I kind of feel that Redmayne's is a bit softer, which I like, and I like that full-canvas construction is a standard option.

Redmayne's has introduced a suit copying service where they'll send you a pre-paid shipping label. You can send your best fitting jacket or suit or overcoat and they'll take the measurements from the sample, adjust if needed and make a Redmayne style coat. I have found this to be pretty user friendly. I shared photos and video of some of my coats and Tom was able to make some assessments on fit via email and Facetime.

I think Steed has a Zoom fitting option, which I think many on this thread can speak to better than I can.

But it is nice to see independent tailors innovating to deal with the pandemic.

awesome, thanks for the detailed reply! I’ve been after a drape-styled country coat for a while and Redmayne 1860 Acclaim is within my budget and they visit nearby. Their definitely one of my top choices for when the world returns to normal.

for me, the higher level MTM would be less about The hand finishing and more about having one intermittent fitting to adjust for small things rather than going straight to finish

Also, while you mentioned some buyers remorse design choices (we’ve all been there). I think they both fit very well, but I agree that the Redmayne does showcase the soft tailoring drape style a bit better

 

[corpseposeur]

awesome, thanks for the detailed reply! I’ve been after a drape-styled country coat for a while and Redmayne 1860 Acclaim is within my budget and they visit nearby. Their definitely one of my top choices for when the world returns to normal.

for me, the higher level MTM would be less about The hand finishing and more about having one intermittent fitting to adjust for small things rather than going straight to finish

Also, while you mentioned some buyers remorse design choices (we’ve all been there). I think they both fit very well, but I agree that the Redmayne does showcase the soft tailoring drape style a bit better

Oh yes, I think the in-between fitting would be beneficial. The suit copying service can fix some of the uncertainty I think. Based on that Cutting Answers video Tom made, I think Steed's house cut looks more similar to what Anderson and Sheppard made 20-30 years ago, and Redmayne's is a bit more of a contemporary drape cut. But if you're eyeing Redmayne, I'd feel comfortable recommending them, as I said, you could do way way worse for the price. I think if we were to meet in person, it'd probably be as close to bespoke as any MTM can be.

I also just emailed them about having a second jacket made. I'll definitely be a repeat customer.